►
Description
Ken Modeen from Marvin Windows will take you through the basics of window installation. The program will provide a general overview of best practices and procedures for wood window and aluminum clad window installations including opening preparation, building wraps and flashings.
A
A
A
We
thought
that
would
be
interesting
to
put
together
the
presentation,
so
people
can
learn
a
little
bit
more
either
to
do
it
themselves
or
to
know
what
to
talk
to
the
contractor
stuff
on
the
city
does
not
endorse
or
promote
any
particular
business
or
product.
So
Marvin
was
gracious
enough
to
volunteer
jamaicans
presentations
and
they
go
for
not
pushing
them.
A
Ken
Bodine
is
an
architectural
representative,
regarded
windows
and
he
is
going
to
make
the
presentation
to
make
and
I'm
just
going
to
turn
it
over
to
him.
You
let
him
introduce
himself
I'm
gonna
duck
out
here,
because
we
ran
out
of
the
PowerPoint
guides
and
if
someone
doesn't
have
one
I
will
make
more
copies
in
a
month.
A
C
If
they're
involved
to
ensure
that
that
the
the
products
everything
goes
right,
the
products
are
the
right
size.
Everything
fits
the
installation
is
understood
by
everyone
in
the
in
the
in
the
project,
how
that's
supposed
to
be
done
and
so
that
it
gets
done
right.
What
we're
talking
about
here
tonight
is
window
installation
fundamentals.
C
What
I'm
going
to
show.
You
is
not
necessarily
the
only
way
to
do
these
things,
but
it
is
the
way
that
we
typically
recommend
doing
it,
and
we
might,
we
might
recommend
different
ways
for
different
types
of
buildings
or
different
types
of
applications,
but
I'm
going
to
give
you
the
general
fundamentals,
with
the
idea
that,
if
you're
thinking
of
replacing
your
windows
and
doors
in
your
home,
maybe
you
would
get
a
good
understanding
of
some
of
the
steps
that
a
contractor
that
you
might
be
interviewing
should
be
talking
about.
And
if
they're,
not.
C
Maybe
you
need
to
take
those
questions
a
little
further
and
find
out.
Why
they're
not
talking
about
these
particular
steps
or
maybe
interview
other
contractors
who
may
talk
about
some
of
the
steps
that
we're
going
to
talk
about
because
it's
about
water
management,
the
installation
fundamentals
that
I'm
going
to
show
you
today
are
about
managing
the
water
that
is
going
to
get
into
your
building
and
into
the
rough
openings
and
parts
of
your
building
that
are
behind
your
siding
behind
your
stucco.
C
Behind
your
bricks.
You
know
the
industry
tells
us
that
three
to
five
percent
of
all
of
water,
that
your
home
comes
in
contact
with
gets
by
the
exterior
surface,
gets
through
the
bricks
through
them
through
the
mortar
area
of
the
bricks
it
gets
behind
the
vinyl
siding
it
gets
behind
the
stucco.
Whatever
your
finished
product
is
three
to
five
percent
of
water
gets
behind
there,
and
then
we
need
to
begin
to
manage
it
to
make
sure
that
it
stays
outside
of
your
wall
system.
C
You
think
three
to
five
percent,
that
that's
not
too
bad
when
you're
talking
about
a
hundred
percent
and
we're
talking
about
three
to
five
that
gets
behind
there,
but
every
house
in
Minnesota
for
sure
comes
in
contacts
with
thousands
of
gallons
of
water
a
year
with
wind,
driven
rain,
snow
ice,
that
sort
of
thing,
and
it's
the
wind
room
and
rain
that
we're
really
concerned
with,
because
that's
pressurized
water
that
makes
its
way
through
every
crevice
and
crack
and
gets
behind
there.
So
that's!
C
C
This
happens
to
be
a
an
aia,
approved
course,
so
the
American
Institute
of
Architects
approved
this
course
and
many
others
that
we
have
in
that
we've
written
and
it
is
actually
given
to
architects
as
well,
so
that
they
can
understand
the
water
management
in
this
case
in
residential
homes.
Anyone
in
here
in
architect
tonight,
if
you
were,
you,
would
actually
get
architectural
credits
for
for
attending
this
seminar.
C
What
we
want
to
do
tonight
is
to
discuss
the
installation
preparations
for
wood
windows,
aluminum,
clad
windows
and
doors
and
structural
installations.
If
we
need
those
as
well,
we
want
to
explain
how
to
flash
the
installation
of
the
windows
and
doors
and
list
some
of
the
final
installation
procedures
to
facilitate
a
successful
installation.
C
The
course
pretty
much
pertains
to
aluminum
clad
windows
when
we
talk
about
aluminum,
clad
windows,
we're
talking
about
an
aluminum
exterior
and
a
wood
interior
window
in
a
wood
frame,
construction
building,
that's
what
this
course
is
about,
or
all
wood
windows,
no
aluminum,
exterior,
for
instance,
in
a
wood
frame
construction,
but
also
fiber,
glass
windows
in
a
wood
wood
frame,
construction
building-
and
it's
also
important
to
note
that
these
are
fundamentals.
There's
suggested
ways
to
do
things.
Every
building
is
different.
Every
community
is
different,
even
with
the
respect
of
climate.
C
For
instance,
when
we
go
to
Duluth,
Duluth
calls
themselves
a
microclimate
and
they
are
they've
got
the
large
hill
behind
them.
Now
they
come
down
to
the
lake
and
when
you're
down
in
Duluth
the
weather
and
Duluth
many
times
is
totally
different
than
the
weather
up
on
Miller
hill.
I'm
sure
a
lot
of
you
folks
know
that
so
climate
makes
a
lot
of
difference.
If
you're
in
a
very
high
elevation
in
minnesota,
somewhere
or
low
elevation,
there
might
be
some
different
concerns
on
what
materials
and
what
processes
might
be.
C
C
We're
talking
about
rough
openings,
that
is
this.
Opening
that
you
see
in
your
wall
windows,
should
be
typically
one
inch
narrower
than
the
opening
in
your
wall
and
one
half
inch
shorter
than
the
opening
in
your
wall.
If
you're
watching
an
installation
happen
and
the
windows
are
being
set
into
place
and
they're
being
wedged
into
place,
they're
tight
that
is
not
correct.
Windows
should
be.
They
should
have
a
half-inch
void
to
to
each
side
to
the
rough
opening
and
a
half
inch
void
to
the
top.
Yes,
sir,.
D
C
The
window
itself
sets
directly
on
the
sill
and
will
not
take
a
half
inch
void
under
it,
so
it
simply
takes
a
half
inch
void
above
the
top
of
it
between
the
top
and
the
rough
opening.
But
each
side
takes
a
half
inch
void.
So
that's
our
one
inch
and
the
top
is
our
half
inch.
We
don't
want
to
void
on
the
underside
of
the
sill.
We
want
that
to
go
ahead
and
set
right
on
the
opening.
That's
the
difference.
That's
why
we
have
a
one
inch
in
width
and
a
half
inch
difference
in
height.
C
What
a
masonry
opening
is
a
masonry
opening,
although
it's
the
words
masonry
and
it's
kind
of
implying
brick
or
stucco.
It
simply
is
the
finish
materials
opening
on
the
exterior
of
your
home.
In
other
words,
if
you
measured
from
siding
to
siding
across
the
window
or
brick
to
brick
or
stucco
to
stucco.
Whatever
that
finished
material
is,
that's
called
the
masonry
opening
the
masonry.
C
Opening
that
finish,
material
should
not,
but
right
up
to
your
window,
there
should
always
be
about
a
quarter
inch
difference
from
that
finished
material
on
your
home
to
where
the
edge
of
that
window
is,
and
that
would
be
a
that
would
be
an
opening
that
would
be
cocked
and
it
allows
for
some
expansion
and
contraction
of
the
window.
It
allows
for
some
expansion,
contraction
and
movement
of
that
finished
material.
C
If
the
finished
material
is
butted
right
against
the
side
of
the
window
and
you
get
swelling
or
expansion
and
contraction,
we're
now
pushing
against
the
window
frame
and
we're
going
to
cause
some
buckling,
maybe
in
your
finished
material,
particularly
if
it's
something
like
vinyl
siding
you'll,
start
to
see
some
buckling
aluminum
siding
that
sort
of
thing.
But
if
it's
brick
or
stucco,
that's
not
going
to
do
the
buckling.
The
window
will
do
the
buckling
at
that
point.
B
C
B
C
Something
that's
going
to
last
50
years,
something
that's
going
to
be,
have
a
lot
of
elasticity
and
for
those
50
years
ago
and
allow
some
cushion
there
the
spray
foam
that
we're
talking
about
that
will
go
between
that
void
between
the
window
and
the
rough
open.
That's
an
insulation
material.
The
clocking
is
a
sealing
material.
C
Now
there
are
a
couple
of
different
type
of
pans
and
when
we,
when
I
talk
about
a
pan,
we're
going
to
talk
about
at
the
bottom
of
this
rough
opening,
where
the
window
is
going
to
go,
we
want
to
ensure
that
we're
shedding
water
to
the
outside
nothing
soaks
into
the
wall
down
here
through
this
bottom,
that's
called
a
panning
system,
whether
it's
on
a
window
and
a
door.
It's
the
pan
that
we're
going
to
create
before
we
ever
put
the
window
in
there
to
make
sure
that
we're
out
all
the
water
to
the
outside.
C
On
that
masonry,
opening
that
we
talked
about,
can
you
see?
Okay,
all
right
on
that
masonry,
opening
that
we
talked
about
where
we
have
brick?
We
want
brick
veneer
on
a
home.
We
want
to
make
sure
that
we
have
about
a
half
inch
distance
between
the
bottom
of
the
window,
sill
and
the
top
of
that
brick
ledge,
particularly
on
new
construction,
a
new
home.
C
We
want
to
at
least
a
good
half
inch
there
on
a
wood
frame
home
with
a
brick
veneer
and
if
it's
brand-new,
the
wood
itself
has
a
the
home
itself,
has
a
fairly
high
moisture
content
as
the
home
dries
out
as
wood
dries
out.
It
begins
to
shrink
right
when
it
takes
on
water.
It
swells
when
it
relieves
water
and
dries
out
it
shrinks.
Well,
the
wood
studs
in
a
wall
also
will
shrink
in
length.
C
The
window
will
follow
it
and
if
we
only
leave
ourselves
a
quarter
of
an
inch
or
so
that
window
sill
at
the
end
of
a
couple
years
in
new
construction
home
may
be
setting
right
on
that
brick
ledge.
If
it
sets
right
on
that
brick
ledge
and
it
shrinks
anymore,
then
the
wall
doesn't
tip
in
right,
because
now
the
brick
ledge
is
pushing
up
on
the
window.
C
What
happens
is
the
brick
ledge
will
begin
to
push
the
sill
of
the
window
up
and
then
your
windows
are
going
to
bind
when
you
have
a
casement
window
that
cranks
in
and
out
it's
going
to
bind
where
that
still
is
being
pushed
up.
Where
we
have
brick
veneer,
we
want
to
make
sure
we
have
a
good
gap.
If
it's
two
storey,
this
gap
would
probably
go
more
to
a
58,
maybe
even
a
three-quarter,
because
we're
going
to
have
more
shrinkage,
as
we
add
stories
to
that
building.
C
Solid,
like
that
anything
solid,
that's
not
going
to
give
at
all
vinyl
siding,
not
such
a
big
deal.
It's
going
to
give
the
windows
tougher
than
that
siding.
Is
it's
not
tougher
than
the
rock,
and
it's
not
tougher
than
bricks.
It's
not
tougher
than
stucco
either,
but
you'd
still
want
to
do
the
same
same
on
the
stucco
as
well.
C
Let's
go
to
our
next
slide
here.
So
what
we're
going
to
do
now
is
we're
going
to
talk
about
installing
this
window,
but
before
I
do
that
I
want
to
talk
about
some
of
these
materials
that
you
see
around
here.
The
Raps
a
house
wrap
is
a
material
that
is
a
wrapped
on
the
outside
of
your
home
to
manage
the
water.
That's
going
to
get
behind
the
finish
materials
on
your
home.
C
C
This
is
home,
wrap
that
I'm
going
to
pass
around
and
it's
a
flat
type
of
a
product.
The
reason
you,
the
material
that
you
would
use
home,
wrap
on,
would
be
a
type
of
finished
material.
That
is
not
direct.
You
know
indirect
hard
contact
with
the
with
your
exterior
sheathing,
okay,
so
a
vinyl
siding,
aluminium,
siding,
a
steel,
siding
those
things,
those
types
of
materials
that
have
I'm
going
to
set
this
down
for
a
sec.
C
C
This
is
not
solid.
This
is
a
void
back
in
here.
This
is
hollow.
Okay,
the
the
home
wrap
that
we
see
there
is
flat
and
smooth,
and
it
it
allows
the
migration
of
the
water
behind
it.
What
I
have
on
this
particular
a
mock-up
wall
is
what's
called
drain.
Wrap
drain
wrap
is
a
bit
different
than
house
wrap
in
that
you
can
see
that
it's
crinkly
and
it
has
sort
of
a
corrugated
sort
of
effect
to
it.
C
What
we
want
to
use
the
drain
rap
for
is
materials
that
are
going
to
come
up
and
press
type
to
the
building,
some
type
of
maybe
a
wood,
siding
cedar,
siding
that
sort
of
thing,
plywood
type
of
sightings,
and
what
what
the
drain
wraps
going
to
do
then,
is,
as
you
put
the
materials
tight
up
against
the
sheathing
it's
it's.
This
corrugated
effect
is
still
going
to
allow
a
little
bit
of
migration
room
behind
those
solid
materials,
so
the
water
can
run
down
the
wall
and
what
water
are
we
talking
about?
C
We're
talking
about
the
water?
That's
going
to
get
behind
the
siding.
Okay,
we
want
to
let
it
run
down
the
wall.
We
want
to
let
it
run
out
the
bottom.
There
are
other
types
of
wraps
out
there.
Other
companies
make
wraps
as
well,
but
typically
they're,
one
of
these
two
different
types,
and
some
of
them
are
even
more
elaborate
type
of
drain
systems
that
you
will
see.
C
Rap
is
repped,
stretched
and
wrapped
around
the
building
and
the
correct
way
to
install
a
building
wrap
is
with
these
button
nails.
These
button
nails
are
the
approved
fasteners
from
most
of
these
rap
systems.
They
would
go
where
you
would
find
a
stud
here
in
the
wall.
They
would
be
nailed
into
that
or,
if
it's
a
solid
sheathing
like
like
an
osb
or
a
plywood
or
something
they
can,
they
can
nail
them
wherever
they
like,
but
typically
they're,
going
to
nail
them
in
studs.
C
C
You
know
what
one
of
these
are.
These
are
a
staple
hammer
not
too
long
ago
when
folks
put
on
tyvek,
they
just
start
banging
on
the
house
with
a
staple
hammer
all
over
the
place,
keeping
it
in
place
there.
Well,
every
time
you
do
that
you
perforate
the
house
wrap
and
when
you
perforate
the
house
wrap
you
allow
an
area
for
moisture
or
moisture
vapor
to
get
through
that
particular
wrap
at
that
certain
point.
C
So
if
folks
are
wrapping
your
home
and
they're
banging
on
your
home
with
a
stapler,
just
know
that
that
is
not
the
approved
way
to
apply
this
stuff
on
your
home
and
if
most
rap
companies
will
come
out
because
you've
had
some
leakage
and
now
you
want
the
rap
company
to
stand
behind
their
product
and
they
begin
to
take
siding
off
and
the
house
is
peppered
with
a
staple
hammer.
They'll
say:
that's
that's
why
you
have
issues
okay,
so
that
was
very
important
to
talk
about
how
that's
applied
to
the
home.
C
What
we
want
to
do
is
we
want
to
cut
this
house,
wrap
at
the
window
opening
and
do
the
correct
type
of
procedure
on
it,
so
that
we
continue
the
water
migration
down
this
house
wrap.
If
we
take
a
look
at
the
drawing
that
we
have
up
there
and
it's
on
your
sheet,
you
can
see
there's
a
particular
way.
We
want
to
do
that
now
when
we're
talking
about
windows,
we
want
to
make
our
cut
like
this.
We
want
to
cut
it
straight
and
you
can
see
the
opening
behind
there
right.
C
C
C
C
Would
be
installed
like
this
right
now
and
then
the
wrap
would
go
over
the
top
of
it,
so
that
any
water
migration
in
here
is
lapped
over
the
top
of
our
pan
would
come
down
the
bottom
and
make
its
way
to
the
outside
a
pan
system.
A
rigid
pan
system
like
this
would
be
cocked
here
on
the
back
or
basically
down
the
bottom
and
up
the
sides
of
the
wrap,
and
then
it
would
be
put
into
place
nailed
into
place.
C
The
wrap
goes
across
the
top
of
it
like
that.
So
any
side
migration
is
going
to
come
right
down
over
the
top
of
it
and
out
the
outside
of
it.
You
might
have
a
one
piece,
metal,
pan
system
that
would
go
in
here
made
for
each
opening.
That
would
go
in
basically
the
same
way.
It
wouldn't
be
constructed
in
the
opening
on,
like
with
two
pieces,
it'd
be
one
large
piece
to
begin
with,
but
it
would
go
in
there
the
same
way.
C
That's
the
only
type
of
system
where
you're
going
to
what
we're
going
to
talk
about
caulking
anywhere
around
the
bottom
of
the
bottom
of
a
sill
of
a
rough
opening.
Typically
we're
going
to
tell
you
to
stay
away
from
caulking
anywhere
down
in
here,
because
these
are
weak
points.
We
want
the
water
to
weep
out
here.
We
don't
want
to
seal
it
up,
but
the
pan,
because
we're
going
to
it
behind
the
pan,
all
of
the
weeping
is
done
on
top
of
the
pan.
Okay.
C
C
They're,
putting
a
few
staples
into
place
to
keep
it
held
out
of
the
way
you
can
do
that
you
have
to
remember
when
you
pull
it
back
and
put
things
back
together,
you
have
to
tape
up
it
every
one
of
those
little
staple
holes
that
go
in
there.
Okay,
it's
just
not
a
good
way
to
do
it,
it's
better
just
to
tape
it
off,
get
it
out
of
the
way
with
tape.
C
C
D
C
C
That's
the
tape
you
use
whatever's
recommended
by
the
type
of
wrap
that
you're
using
on
your
home
right
here,
we're
talking
about
building
paper.
If
we
weren't
using
a
house
wrap-
and
we
were
just
using
a
building
paper,
which
is
a
felt
typically
called
tar
paper
or
felt
you
can
do
that-
it's
it's
used
here
and
there
are
some
places
but
I
think
typically
most
anyone
you're
going
to
see
building
today
is
going
to
be
using
a
house
wrap
building
paper
might
be
used
where
certain
masonry
products
might
be
used.
C
This
is
that
rigid,
like
a
like
a
galvanized
steel
or
an
aluminum
silk
pants
system?
It's
a
one-piece
system.
It's
fastened
and
soldered
together
fits
right
in
there
as
one
piece
but
the,
but
the
system
I
want
to
talk
to
about
today
is
creating
a
sloped
rough
opening
sill,
and
that
is
what
we
recommend
for
window
installations
is
to
use
a
sloped
rough
opening
sill.
If
it's
new
construction,
your
contractor,
can
slope
the
framing.
C
You
can
slope
the
framing
somewhat
when
he
builds
the
place,
but
I
have
an
idea
that
you're
all
in
here
because
of
replacing
windows
in
an
existing
home.
That's
not
going
to
have
a
slope
sill.
Then
we
recommend
that
you
create
a
slope
sill
for
your
home.
The
easiest
way
to
do
that
is
with
a
piece
of
8-inch
cedar,
siding
I,
believe
this
is
8
inch,
which
is
going
to
be
wide
enough
for
most
any
wall,
and
then
you
rip
the
8
inch
cedar,
siding
to
whatever
your
wall
thickness.
C
C
C
C
Now,
there's
one
thing:
I
want
to
talk
about
all
of
these
flashing
systems.
Please
read
your
instructions
or
go
online
and
read
instructions
before
you
begin
any
window,
installation
building,
wrap
application
completely.
Read
the
installation
instructions
there's
important
information
in
there
when
it
comes
to
flashing
and
Windows
and
Windows
that
use
a.
C
Vinyl
nailing
fin,
like
this,
like
we
see
on
this
window
here,
that
we're
going
to
use
the
installation
instructions
will
typically
tell
you
that
if
you
use
an
asphalt
based
product
that
it
will
void
the
warranty
for
flashing
that
particular
vinyl
fin
okay
over
the
years
asphalt
based
products
will
degrade
that
vinyl
on
that
fin.
So
that's
why
we
want
you
to
be
sure
you
read
all
of
those
directions,
be
you
know,
through
the
process
of
making
your
decision
on
what
materials
you're
going
to
use.
Now
this
is
a
Tyvek
product.
C
C
C
And
we're
going
to
bring
our
rap
on
in
now
on
the
inside
of
this
building
if
it
was
new
construction,
this
would
be
open
studs
at
this
point,
and
we
would
be
just
securing
it
to
the
open
studs
on
a
finished
home.
You'd
have
to
terminate
it.
You
know
somewhere
in
here
and
if
you
terminate
it
somewhere
in
here,
you
would
tape
all
that
off.
You
want
to
seal
any
place,
any
see
many
edge
of
this
stuff.
You
want
it
sealed
and
taped
off.
C
Now
you
can
see
that
what
we've
created
is
a
pan
system
that
any
moisture
getting
in
this
side
or
this
side
we're
coming
through
a
window
or
coming
into
the
opening
around
the
fins
or
wherever
it
might
come,
is
going
to
get
into
the
opening
if
it
does
get
into
the
opening,
it's
got
to
run
down.
This
is
a
shingle
wrap
type
of
overlap
system,
so
it's
got
to
run
down
onto
the
pan
and
it
now
has
to
run
out
of
the
building.
It's
very
important
that
that
that
that
system
be
put
that
way.
C
C
C
This
is
actually
the
system
that
we
recommend.
Now
we
find
that
this
flexible
rap
just
does
a
better
job
of
getting
into
every
little
crevice
and
sticking
to
every
little
part
of
the
rough
opening.
This
is
what
we
recommend
now.
Typically
now
there
might
be
the
the
metal,
the
metal
pan
that
I
talked
about.
That's
that's,
typically
a
commercial
project.
It
will
be
SPECT
into
a
commercial
project.
C
Maybe
that
rigid
composite
pan
there
that's
a
residential
project
product
if
you
want
to
use
that,
but
we
find
that
this
is
a
product
that
that
that
we
recommend
and
most
contractors
like
this
to
work
with
this
better
as
well
see
it
has
no
scenes
where
that
one
has
a
scene.
The
rigid
pan
that
we're
going
to
put
together
in
two
halves
has
a
seam
right
here
in
the
middle
and
we're
always
we're
always
a
little
leery
asst
seems
yes,
sir.
C
Smart
lumber,
company
or
whatever
would
have
a
roll
and
sell
it
by
the
foot
or
because
it
comes
in
fairly
long
rolls,
but
then
again
they're
not
selling
you
a
whole
roll
at
that
point.
Gosh
it's
it's
expensive!
Well,
relative
to
what
it
does.
It's
not
expensive,
but
it's
it's
it's
dollars!
A
foot
put
it
that
way.
Yes,
sir.
D
C
I'm
going
to
tell
you
as
a
window
manufacturer,
this
is
the
recommended
installation.
Is
a
house
wrap
covering
all
of
the
sheathing
and
then
and
then
an
installation
like
you
see
here,
to
remove
a
window
to
remove
the
brick
mold
and
then
you've
got
whatever
two
or
three
inches
around
that
window
and
if
that's
the
way,
if
that's
the
way
you're
going
to
do
it,
then
my
recommendation
would
be
the
whole
opening
being
done
in
Flex
wrap.
C
It's
not
the
recommended
way
to
do
too
I
mean
the
recommended
thing
would
be
take
that
finished
material
off
and
wrap
the
house,
and
do
it
all
at
once.
It'd
be
great
when
it
yeah,
but
in
lieu
of
that
in
lieu
of
that
I
think
the
I
think
that
that
the
best
alternative
to
that
would
be
everything
done
in
Flex,
wrap
all.
A
A
C
C
C
Yeah,
a
lot
of
this
stuff
is
pretty
new
stuff,
it's
10
or
15
years
old.
It
seems
to
be
holding
now
if
we
go
out
and
pull
out
a
window
for
whatever
reason,
maybe
maybe
as
defective.
When
we
pull
out
a
window,
it
seems
to
be
holding
ten
years
or
so
now,
I
don't
know
about
50
years
from
now,
but
the
tie-back
would
be
able
to
answer
those.
D
Same
as
some
of
these
others,
we
have
an
older
house
and
call
it
again
through
the
whole
job
replacing
sightings
reach
society.
Okay,
maybe
maybe
this
year
we
can
do
any
windows
or
some
of
the
windows
or
whatever
we
serve
replacement.
This
is
Lex
rap.
You
know
they
say
it
works
really
well,
but
you
know:
okay,
we
eat,
we
open
it
up
and
we
explode
a
little
bit
on
it
and
we
more
than
likely
have
building
felt
parking.
You
know
underneath
our
our
society
and
then
we
start
thinking
about
all
types.
D
C
That
really
the
best
way
to
do
it
if
it's
at
all
possible
and
you
and
you're
not
going
to
replace
your
siding
and
you're
not
going
to
strip
the
house
completely
off
and
redo
the
whole
exterior.
The
best
way
to
do
it
is
at
least
to
get
as
wide
a
swath
as
you
can
around
those
old
windows.
If,
right
now,
you
have
two
inch
brick
mold,
maybe
you
can
sit,
could
consider
taking
that
out,
taking
an
extra
couple
inches,
putting
the
windows
in
and
using
maybe
a
window
either
wood
or
clad.
C
C
F
Say
something
for
three
straight
birdies
at
ease
of
this
Idol
last
as
long
as
your
shingles
do,
because
that
I
sandstorm
shield
is
actually
using
the
same
adhesive
as
the
breakfast
that
you
know
and
I'm
speak
up,
so
it's
often
used
on
the
shield.
That's
the
ice
shield
is
used
up
from
inter
better
line
sup
on
your
roll.
It
lasts
way
over
20
years.
They.
C
Have
to
remember
that
it's
not
exposed
to
sunlight
or
anything
like
that.
It's
it's
it's
and,
and
the
sill
pan
itself
has
weight
on
it
all
the
time.
It's
got
the
window
sitting
on
it,
so
it
even
if
even
if
the
adhesion
of
it
might
might
not
might
degrade
it,
it
still
has
weight,
keeping
it
in
place
and
it
has
nail
fins
keeping
it
in
place.
C
So,
but
anyway,
up
till
now
we
haven't
heard
or
seen
anything
that
tells
us
that
the
adhesive
is
is
given
up
I'm
going
to
move
on
here
a
bit
because
we
slope
the
sill
and
because
windows
and
doors
need
a
flat
surface
to
sit
on.
They
can't
sit
on
a
slope
sill.
You
know
they
can't
have
a
void
out
here
at
the
end.
If
your
windows
sitting
on
here
like
this,
they
can't
have
a
void
out
here
on
the
end,
because
it's
eventually
gravity
is
such
a
force
over
so
many
years.
C
It's
going
to
pull
it
down,
so
you
take
that
same
sighting
that
you
ripped
and
you
create
contradicting
shims
on
top
of
that
slope
sill.
These
are
contradicting
shims
that
now
create
a
flat
area
for
the
window
to
be
installed
on.
Not
only
does
it
create
a
flat
area
for
the
windows
to
be
installed
on,
it
creates
drainage
ports
between
them.
Okay,.
C
G
C
You
for
that,
that's
a
that's
a
great
comment
when
we're
talking
about
wood
shims
wherever
we're
talking
about
wood,
we're
talking
about
cedar,
okay,
mahogany,
if
you
like,
but
cedars
a
lot
cheaper,
so
we're
talking
about
a
naturally
oily
type
of
wood
that
that
lasts
a
long
time
where
it
may
come
into
contact
with
moisture.
But
typically,
where
you
can
you
want
to
use
a
composite
shim.
You
want
to
use
something
that
isn't
wood
and
isn't
susceptible
to
moisture.
C
You
just
don't
have
this
particular
product
that
makes
a
good
slopes
ill.
The
cedar
siding
does
the
best
for
that
and
we're
completely
covering
that
anyway,
with
the
wrap
and
because
we
want
to
contract
contradict
that
slope
exactly
if
we
use
the
same
material
with
the
same
angle.
That
makes
a
good
way
to
do
it
and
it's
cedar
and
we're
not
worried
about
that.
But
for
the
rest
of
the
shims
on
the
window,
I
would
use
a
composite.
Shim
I
would
use
a
non
cedar
type
of
Shem.
It's
not
it's!
C
Well,
you
would
probably
use
a
little
bit
of
silicone
or
something
to
put
them
in
put
them
in
place
so
that
they
don't
move
around
while
you're
setting
the
window
in
there
a
lot
of
folks.
They
can
set
the
window
in
and
and
then
kind
of
reesh
if
those
shims
where
they
want,
because
they're
going
to
stay
in
place,
but
a
little
silicone
underneath
them
or
something
that
keeps
them
in
pretty
good
shape.
C
Now
we're
going
to
put
the
window
in
place,
but
the
first
thing
we're
going
to
do
is
we're
going
to
caulk
behind
where
the
nail
fins
go
and
we're
going
to
use
our
special
blue
cocking
to
do
that,
we
want
to
behind
here
I'm
going
to
switch
slides
because
we're
probably
we've
done
the
contradicting
shims.
As
you
see
there,
we're
talking
about
felt
again
how
to
apply
felt
as
a
as
a
weatherboard
fashion,
one
over
the
top
of
the
other.
C
C
You
this
joint
right
here
down
the
backside
of
it.
Okay,
a
lot
of
folks
are
worried
about
all
of
the
water.
That's
going
to
get
in
this
way.
Well,
this
is
a
this
is
a
scene.
This
is
an
area
where
you
can
get
wind
driven
rain
in
here
too,
not
tomorrow,
but
15
or
20
years
from
now
or
30
years.
From
now,
when
something
might
swell
our
warp
or
pull
away
slightly,
you
can
get
some
wind
and
rain
in
there.
C
You
can
also
use
a
flashing
tape
behind
there
if
you'd
like
something
to
try
and
something
to
try
and
give
yourself
some
resistance
for
30
years
from
now
when,
when
you
might
get
some
wind
driven
rain
into
this
area,
if
you
don't
paint
how
many
you
know
how
many
homes
have
you
seen
that
maybe
haven't
had
a
coat
of
paint
for
20
years,
and
this
is
now
starting
to
create
an
opening
in
here.
It's
not
sealed
up
anymore.
C
C
Down
the
side,
do
we
want
to
caulk
across
the
bottom?
This
is
a
weak
point.
This
is
where
we
want
the
water
to
move
we're
talking
across
the
bottom.
We've
just
shut
our
we
point
down
and
we're
going
to
lock
the
water
into
the
sill.
Pan
it'll
evaporate
away,
but
it's
not
good
for
things.
It's
best
just
to
go
ahead
and
let
it
flow
and
that's
why
we
don't
the
bottom.
C
C
Now
window
installation
is
typically
always
a
two-man
deal.
A
two-person
deal
one's
one
person
outside
one
person
inside
so
now,
we've
put
our
windows
into
place.
We've
we've
set
it
into
the
caulking.
My
lines
are
a
little
far
out.
I
should
have
been
a
little
closer
in
now
we're
pushed
into
the
caulking.
You
need
to
level
things,
make
sure
that
the
sill
is
level
across
make
sure
the
sides
are
plumb.
C
Put
a
couple
of
I
thought.
We
had
some
nails
over
here
anyway.
You
want
a
two-inch
roofing,
nail,
flat-headed
galvanized
two-inch
roofing
nail,
and
that's
what
you
want
to
use
here.
So
you
button
up
a
couple
of
a
couple
of
top
nails.
Okay,
then
you
can
shift
the
window
back
and
forth
till
you
get
it
plum
level
and
square,
and
the
easiest
way
to
square
window
is
to
measure
it
corner
by
corner.
Until
you
have
exactly
the
same
measurement,
then
you
know
that
it
is
square
so
nail
it
into
place
like
so.
C
Show
us
nailing
it
you
shims
on
the
inside.
All
windows
need
shims,
no
matter
how
structurally
strong
they
feel
like
they're
they're,
not
racking
there
they're
not
moving
at
all.
They
still
need
shims
to
keep
them
work
where
they,
where
they
are
in
that
rough
opening
and
keep
them
from
moving.
So
we're
asking
you
to
use
shims
in
there,
okay
measure
the
diagonals
shim
them
most
windows
want
to
be
shimmed,
four
to
six
inches
from
every
corner
and
within
fifteen
inches
of
each
shim
along
the
lineal.
C
Okay,
so
you're
going
to
have
two
shims
here
at
the
corners
and
and
no
more
than
15
inches
in
between
along
the
lineal
sides,
and
the
top
shims
have
already
been
placed
in
the
bottom.
When
we
did
the
when
we
did
the
sill
pan
and
you've
got
some
of
these
notes
here.
So
there
we're
showing
the
cross
measure,
that's
a
door
unit,
their
door
units.
C
Depending
upon
your
floor
system
and
depending
upon
how
straight
it
is,
you
want
to
not
see
them
under
doors
unless
you
absolutely
have
to
and
if
you
absolutely
have
to
shim
under
a
door,
there's
a
process
for
it
that
I'd
be
glad
to
describe
to
you
if
you
should
need
it,
but
basically
it's
layering
solid
material
rather
than
sliding
shims
under
a
door.
All
of
that
weight.
C
All
of
that
pressure
on
that
door,
sill
they'll
wave,
if,
if
you're
just
doing
shims
every
foot
or
so,
if
you
have
a
sag
corner
or
a
humped
Middle,
where
you
got
to
build
the
two
ends
up
or
a
low
middle,
where
you've
got
to
build
the
window
up,
it
would
be
something
more
like
layering,
a
material
like
this.
Actually,
we
use
a
material
which
is
a
nice
shield.
C
I
mean
that's
what
we
suggest
and
you
because
you
can
layer
it
now
in
eighth
inches
and
the
first
one
can
be
the
first
one
can
be
long.
The
next
one
can
be
couple
feet:
shorter,
the
next
one,
a
few
feet
shorter
and
you
get
a
nice
smooth,
solid
straightening
of
that
floor.
That's
what
we
recommend
when
we're
talking
about
not
perfect
seals
and
when
you're
talking
about
doors,
sliding
doors,
any
kind
of
doors.
Those
sills
have
to
be
straight
and
level.
C
Ok,
this
is
on
most
windows
that
you
will
see.
This
is
a
drip
cap.
A
drip
cap
is
basically
on
top
of
the
window,
to
keep
dirt
and
run
off
from
running
down
the
window
frames
and
the
glass.
Ok,
it's
meant
to
keep
that
dirt
and
runoff
coming
out
here
and
then
dripping
past
the
window
kind
of
keeps
your
window
a
little
bit
cleaner.
C
It's
a
little
bit
for
water
management
as
well,
but
this
is
not
a
head
flashing
and
the
word
drip
cap
sometimes
gets
confused
as
being
the
same
thing
as
a
head
flashing
and
that's
not
the
case.
It
is
a
drip
cap.
It
indicates
you
want
the
moisture
or
the
water
to
drip
and
drip
out
past
the
window,
not
getting
all
that
dirt
and
stuff
on
your
window,
I'm
going
to
pass
that
around
you'll,
see
that
on
most
windows
that
you
buy,
it's,
not
the
final
product
that
goes
on
the
top
of
this
window.
C
The
final
product
that
goes
on
this
window,
as
you
see,
is
a
droop
is
a
head
flashing
and
a
head
flashing
is
always
metal.
It
can
be
aluminum,
it
can
be
galvanized,
but
it's
typically
always
going
to
be
metal.
We
don't
want,
we
don't
want
a
flexible
flashing
use
their.
We
want
metal,
ok
and
when
you
apply
this
drip
cap
on
this
particular
system
that
you
see
here,
we
want
to
caulk
the
back
side
or
the
up
side
of
the
flashing,
and
we
want
to
caulk
the
bottom
of
it.
C
That's
going
to
come
in
contact
with
the
top
of
the
window.
Wind-Driven
rain
can
get
under
the
drip
cap
and
begin
to
its
pressure.
Driven
water
is
what
it
is.
It
can
get
under
the
drip
cap
and
begin
to
drive
its
way
up
into
areas,
so
we
want
to
go
ahead
and
that
either
either
here
or
here
it
does
the
same
thing
and
we
want
to
the
back
of
it
and
we
want
to
apply
it
to
the
top
of
that
window.
It's
a
head
flashing,
not
a
drip
cap.
It
looks
like
a
drip
cap.
C
C
C
C
C
Creating
even
more
of
a
barrier
the
nail
fin
by
the
way
is
not
a
water
management.
That's
an
installation
part,
it's
what
holds
the
window
to
the
wall
and
the
fact
that
it's
vinyl
and
yeah
the
vinyl
is
impervious
to
water,
but
a
nail
fin
is
not
meant
to
do
what
the
flashing
tape
does.
The
flashing
tape
keeps
all
of
the
water
away
from
that
rough
opening
to
the
outside
of
it.
It's
it's.
It's
a
it's!
It's
the
finished
type
of
seal
when
we're
done
with
that.
C
C
C
C
What
does
that
mean
when
our
finished
material
goes
over
the
head
of
that
window,
like
the
cell?
If
you
this
up
you've,
just
locked
all
that
water
in
over
the
head
of
this
window,
it's
a
weak
point,
allow
it
to
weep
okay,
that
doesn't
mean
that
doesn't
mean
this
still
goes
right
down
on
top
of
there,
but
allow
it
to
weep.
C
Well,
it's
going
it's
going
to
be
back
there
anyway,
either
from
the
top
or
whatever
might
get
driven
up,
but
it'll
come
right
back
out
again.
If
you
lock
it
up,
then
you're
right,
no
water
will
drive
up
in
here,
but
all
this
will
be
locked
once
it
comes
down
and
I've
seen
it
before
and
when
it
gets
locked
there
when
it
gets
locked
because
it's
been
cocked
over
the
head.
Flashing
comes
in
I
on
the
inside.
You
see
it
dripping
down
from
the
top
of
the
window
down
onto
your
windowsill.
C
You
hear
it
at
night,
when
you're,
trying
to
sleep
you're
wondering
how
the
heck
is
that
going
on
a
lot
of
times
when
a
house
gets
cited
or
something
the
fo'c'sle
I
mean
it
looks
great
down
this
side
across
there.
So
it
looks
real
good
looks
finished,
but
it's
designed
to
weep
water
there.
This
is
designed
to
weep
water
under
here.
I'll.
Give
you
one
more
trick,
though,.
C
The
last
trick,
I
guess,
is
what
we
should
do
if
you're
on,
if
you're
exposed
to
a
lake,
a
waterfront
if
you're
on
a
hill-
and
you
get
a
lot
of
wind,
for
instance,
there's
what's
called
a
high-pressure
skirt
and
what
a
high-pressure
skirt
is.
You
know:
we've
left
this
bottom
as
a
wheep
area,
but
it
is
also
a
area
where
wind
could
particularly
like
let's
say,
you've
got
masonry
or
vinyl
siding
or
something
that
allows
a
lot
of
air
movements
behind
it.
C
C
If
you've
got
wind
driving,
it
sort
of
creates
a
stopper,
especially
if
you
get
it
down
here,
a
foot
and
a
half
two
feet
deep
now
you've
got
siding
holding
it
and
they
call
that
a
high-pressure
skirt,
where
it's
used,
where
it
was
begun
to
be
used
quite
often
was
when
folks
were
had
40
acres
of
lake
and
a
lot
of
wind
and
rain
coming
from
the
lake.
So
that's
called
the
high
pressure
skirt.
C
The
drip
cap
usually
comes
on
the
window.
It's
part
of
the
window,
yes,
I,
sent
that
that
loose
piece
around,
but
typically
it's
it's.
Typically
the
head,
Neil
Finn,
you
saw
there
was
a
nail
Finn
attached
to
that.
That
would
be
all
one
piece
on
top
of
the
window
when
you
install
it
and
then
you
would
put
the
metal
flashing
over
the
top
of
that.
I
believe
that
that's
the
we're
running
late
and
that's
kind
of
the
meat
of
everything
one
thing
I
want
to
talk
to
you
about
quickly
is
low
expansion.
C
C
Distort
the
window,
it
won't
expand
to
the
point
and
begin
to
push
the
sides
of
the
window
in
or
push
the
top
of
the
window
down.
It
just
doesn't
have
that
kind
of
pressure
build
up
to
it.
It'll
start
to
pour
out
the
inside
before
it
will
start
to
collapse
any
part
of
the
window.
You
still
need
to
be
careful
with
it.
You
still
need
to
apply
it.
You
kindly
kind
of
an
act
to
getting
it
applied
correctly,
and
you
don't
want
to
do
it
all
at
once.
C
C
You'll
have
shims
in
there,
but
you'd
want
to
go
up
to
a
shim
cross
over
a
shim
go
up
cross
over
the
shins
go
around
and
basically
that's
going
to
expand
and
create
an
impervious
gasket
to
the
outside
to
the
outside
of
the
rough
opening,
but
on
the
inside
face
of
the
of
the
nail
fins
and
I
say:
don't
try
and
fill
it
all
at
once.
Just
make
one
round.
You
know
you've
got
all
your
windows
installed,
just
make
one
round
around
all
your
windows
20
minutes
half
hour
later.
C
If
you
want
to
do
some
more,
do
a
little
bit
more.
If
you
try
and
fill
the
whole
thing
at
once,
you're
going
to
have
foam
everywhere
it's
and
it
is
it's
it's
bad
stuff.
If
the
phone
gets
away
from,
you
run
away,
leave
it
alone,
I'm
serious!
You
start
messing
around
with
it
when
it's
wet
and
you've
got
issues
it's
better
to
let
it
cure
and
then
just
start
cutting
it
away
in
so
I've
adequately.
C
C
You
can
we
still
recommend
that
you
do
that
initial
round
of
low
expansion
foam
to
against
the
back
of
that
Neil
Finn.
That
is
a
that's
a
gasket
and
fiberglass
insulation
doesn't
give
you
that
water
impervious
gasket,
but
the
foam
does
so
you
can
do
like
one
inch
of
foam
on
the
very
outside
around
there.
C
Let
that
cure,
and
then
you
can
tuck
in
fiberglass
the
rest
of
the
way
if
you
want,
but
that
really
that
gasket
is
is
very
important,
particularly
particularly,
if
some
of
you
folks
are
thinking
about
doing
a
window
installation
and
not
removing
all
that
siding
and
all
that
sort
of
stuff.
You
definitely
want
that.
Gasket
out
there.
D
C
Has
to
be
over
18
inches
from
the
floor.
Yes,
the
glazing,
the
glass
surface,
so
you
can
have
you
can
have
the
wood
and
you
can
have
the
sash
and
all
that,
but
where
that
glass
starts
over
18
inch,
18
inches
from
the
floor
or
above
and
the
entire
glass
that
you're
talking
about
needs
to
be
over
nine
square
feet.
If
it,
this
window
could
sit
on
the
floor
and
I
wouldn't
have
to
be
tempered,
because
it's
only
two
and
a
half
square
nine
square
feet
of
glazing.
C
That's
called
an
inserts.
Well,
that's
called
an
insert
style
window
right
where
they
go
inside
of
the
existing
window.
Opening
is
that
what
you're
talking
about
it's
called
an
insert
style
window.
It
has
its
place.
It's
a
good
installation
provided
that
the
existing
windows
have
been
adequately
inspected
by
you
know
by
a
contractor
who's
going
to
do
the
work,
and
it's
determined
that
they're,
solid
and
in
good
shape.
C
That
might
be
the
best
way
to
do
a
window
installation
if
you're
not
going
to
do
all
of
the
siding
work
as
well,
provided
those
frames
are
in
good
shape.
Okay,
if
you've
got
punky
frames
and
all
that
they're
going
to
have
to
get
torn
out
anyway
and
then
and
then
you
might
as
well
go
back
to
this,
but
if
you're
double
hung
windows,
for
instance,
all
of
that
was
good.
You
knock
on
it.
C
You
can
do
an
insert
installation
just
fine,
and
now
you
don't
have
to
worry
about
the
water
management
in
that
rough
opening,
because
that
was
already
created
when
they
built
the
house
and
you're,
not
disturbing
that.
At
that
point,
we
we
make
those
windows
as
well
and-
and
they
they're
used
a
lot,
but
we
want
people
make
sure
the
openings
in
good
shape.
Yes,
ma'am.
D
C
Anyway,
different
well,
the
broader,
the
seal,
the
slider
windows,
a
little
bit
like
a
patio
door,
the
broader
and
longer
the
seal,
the
mo
the
more
important
it
is.
That
asks
be
perfectly
level
flat
straight.
You
start
to
bow
that
slider
down
or
hump
that
slider
up
now,
your
sashes
are
like
this
or
your
sashes
are
like
that,
and
your
I'm
telling
you
one-eighth
of
an
inch
over
a
four
foot.
C
C
D
C
D
A
C
A
C
I'll
tell
you
what,
if
you're,
going
to
read
if
you're
going
to
do
windows
or
you're
going
to
do
sighting
or
you're
thinking
about
doing
both?
If
there's
any
way,
you
can
do
it?
Do
it
all
at
once,
because
the
best
installation
you're
going
to
get
is
to
completely
strip
the
house
completely
wrap
the
house
and
do
all
of
this
with
the
window,
installation
and
you're
going
to
have
a
good
tight
water
managed
home.
C
A
G
E
C
You
know
what
works
best
for
that's.
We
call
it
an
STC
rating
and
what
gives
us
the
sound
control
sound
transmission
control
is
what
st
c
stands
for.
What
gives
us
the
best
STC
rating
is
actually
a
dual
pane
window
with
two
different
thicknesses
of
glass,
for
instance.
One
would
be
an
eighth
and
one
might
be
316,
so
the
the
sound
reverberates
and
it
begins
to
fight
each
other
inside
of
the
air
space.
C
Ok,
whereas
if
you
have
two
eighth
inch
pieces
of
glass,
it's
it
just
it
just
it
reverberates
the
same
and
it
just
kind
of
moves
right
on
through.
So
you
want
it
to
fight
each
other
inside
the
glass
laminated
glass
is
the
best
sound
control
type
of
glass,
but
it's
very
expensive.
Try
pain,
do
not
go
to
try
pain
for
sound
control
because
to
pain
done.
The
right
way
performs
better
than
try
pain,
the
larger
the
airspace
the
better.
So
we
want
to
keep
the
air
space
as
large
as
possible.
C
C
G
G
C
Little
bit
for
noise,
but
it's
what
what
the
argon
does
for
you
is
it.
It
keeps
the
convection
currents
down
in
between
the
air
space
from
transferring
heat
and
cold,
because
our
gun
is
heavier
than
atmospheric
air.
So
you
don't
get
the
currents
between
the
air
space
and
that's
what
you
want
to
it
helps
it
helps
the
insulation
value
of
the
window
and
I.
Don't
think
we
even
give
you
a
choice.
C
D
D
D
D
C
Right
now
you
probably
have
the
aluminum
side
sliders
there
they
push
into
retract
and
everything's
kind
of
corroded
and
they're
tough
to
operate.
Are
you
talking
about
keeping
your
same
sash,
though?
It's
keeping
the
same
window,
sash
and
glass
and
doing
just
the
new
tracks
I'll
tell
you
that
if
you're
going
to
have
anything
done
with
Windows,
you
will
get
so
much
better
energy
efficiency
out
of
dual
pane
loi,
argon
replacement
windows.
C
You
do
a
good
low
E
in
argon
window,
not
not
even
necessarily
try
pain,
just
a
dual
pane:
good
loi,
argon
you're,
going
to
save
your
air
conditioning
you're,
going
to
save
your
heat,
get
a
little
bit
of
sound
sound
performance
out
of
them.
To
do
anything
with
windows.
Do
do
get
high
performance
glass.
F
C
Talking
about
Glade
you're
talking
about
yeah,
the
glazing,
putty
yeah,
it
holds
the
glass
in
and
it
kind
of
chips
out
little
one
inch,
lengths
in
that.
Well,
so
you
have
a
single
glazed
window
and
a
one
piece
of
glass
in
there
right.
It's
typically,
typically
that's
going
to
be
a
wood
window,
and
it's
going
to
have
one
piece
of
glass
in
it.
That's
going
to
be
putty
glaze
from
the
outside
into
place.
C
They
can
certainly
be
repotted.
Any
painting
company
that
paints
paints
homes
usually
has
several
guys
that
can
remove
and
replace
andrey
putty
windows
might
want
to
check
and
see
how
structurally
in
good
shape
those
windows
are
because
oh
yeah,
they
can
be
reglazed
some
of
them.
You
can
take
the
sash
some
hardware
stores,
you
know
major
ones,
the
hardware
Hanks
and
the
coast
to
coast
on
that
some
of
them
you
can
take
the
sash
in
and
they'll.
Do
it
at
the
hardware
store
you
got
to
leave
it
there
a
few
days.
E
E
E
C
Now,
inside
of
the
window
right,
this
is
the
window,
but
inside
of
the
window,
where
you
might
have
some
extenders
or
something
you
insulate
there.
So
you
don't
get
wind
flow
through
here.
You
just
don't
want
to
go
all
the
way
out
to
that
nailing,
fin
and
foam
that
up
or
anything
so
you're
foaming
the
tops
and
two
sides,
but
you're
not
foaming
that
bottom.