►
From YouTube: e-NABLE Education & New Members Meetup - April 14, 2023
Description
All new e-NABLE members, e-NABLE educational chapters, students, and educator volunteers are welcome to join to share local and regional activities or to ask questions. In addition to shared resources, we will discuss challenges, recent developments, and opportunities.
Those considering the formal chapter process and partnerships are encouraged to participate!
E
F
F
F
I
should
look
into
this
stuff
so
about
six
hours
ago,
I
started
binge
watching
enable
stuff
and
have
been
just
like,
like
kind
of
digging
in
Non-Stop
for
the
last
six
hours
and
then
about
half
an
hour
ago.
I
saw
that
there's
to
be
a
live
stream
in
half
an
hour,
and
so
I
was
like
Hey.
That
seems
coincidental
and
worth
tuning
in
on.
So
that's
yeah.
D
A
Actually,
where
I
got
a
3D
printer
started
playing
around
with
it
did
some
things
and
then
I
saw
what
can
you
do
with
3D
printers
I
saw
Ted,
Talk
and
YouTube
videos
and
I
was
like
this
is
really
cool
and
it's
something
that
I
want
to
do
more
of
and
also
coincidentally,
today,
I
looked
at
my
phone
and
I
got
a
notification
that
there's
a
live
stream
at
nine
and
my
time
and
I
was
like
this
is
awesome.
This
is
a
sign
from
the
universe.
A
C
Doing
great
hi
everyone
Jeremy
Simon
long
time
enable
member
co-founder
and
just
helping
out
where
I
can
behind
the
scenes,
mostly
I've
done
a
lot
of
infrastructure
support
and
helping
to
get
the
The
Hub
going
and
managing
our
device
catalog
and
helping
Rick
with
some
of
the
chapter
stuff
and
help
desk
stuff
and
just
kind
of
doing
what
I
can
to
support
the
community
and
I
I'm.
A
3D
printing
Enthusiast
myself
I
actually
run
a
company
3D
universe.
C
G
B
B
D
Thank
you
so
much
for
so
excited
to
have
a
new
Makerspace
here
and
congratulations
on
your
Charter
we're
having
a
little
breakup
on
your
audio,
but
I
think
we
can
figure
it
out
as
we
get
through
the
meeting
and
we're
super
excited
to
have
another
group.
That's
new
and
a
local
maker
space,
Sounds
super
cool.
C
H
Thank
you.
My
name
is
Steve
bezhold
and
I'm.
The
director
of
technology
and
Innovation
at
Charlotte,
Christian,
School
I've,
been
teaching
engineering
classes
at
the
high
school
level
for
a
very
long
time,
and
3D
printing
has
been
a
part
of
that
for
at
least
the
last
10
to
15
years
and
I
came
across
enable
just
as
I
was
looking
for.
H
Other
projects
for
my
students
to
work
on,
and
the
reason
it
really
jumped
out
at
me
is
because
it
was
a
really
tangible
way
that
students
could
use
the
skills
that
they've
been
learning
throughout
the
whole
engineering
design
process
and
the
the
the
introductory
engineering
classes
that
they've
taken
and
now
in
the
advanced
engineering
class.
You
know
they're
capable
of
of
not
only
Printing
and
assembling
the
hands,
but
I
have
them.
H
You
know
also,
like
reverse
engineering
them
and
kind
of
making
it
so
that,
like
the
different
people
with
different
needs,
would
be
capable
of
using.
You
know,
different
hands
and
that's
a
really
great
learning
experience
for
them
from
an
engineering
perspective,
but
then
the
ability
to
actually
use,
like
you
know,
Real
World
experience
to
help.
Somebody
I
think
is,
is
even
better,
and
so
that's
that's
why
I'm
here,
but
but
I'm,
very
new
to
the
enable
space.
H
D
Super
cool,
Steve
I
think
we're
on
a
lot
of
same
topics
over
here.
We'd
love.
To
chat
more
about
some
of
this.
We
got
a
bunch
of
educational
practitioners
doing
similar
stuff
where,
like
they
want
to
integrate
this
in
curriculum,
they
already
have
curriculum
and
how
can
these,
like,
open
source
libraries,
help
really
cool
to
have
you
here,
Sarah?
If
you
wanted
to
say
hi.
D
I
I
I
Yeah
so
we've
had,
you
know
we
built
our
first
hand,
sometime
back
when
we,
when
the
chapter
started,
we
have
not
had
too
many
issues.
We
we've
just
noticed
and
I'd
love
to
get
feedback
from.
We
noticed
that
with
smaller
hands.
You
know
when
we
print
down
scale
that
I
apologize,
I
get
the
hardware
kits
the
the
fingertips
tend
to
be
kind
of
large
on
a
small
hand,
and
so
we're
kind
of
exploring
different
ways
to
handle
that
slipping.
I
I
I
D
I
I
C
B
J
D
I
know
Rick
stuff
always
inspires
me
for
what's
possible,
with
these
open
platforms
and
for
getting
started.
I
do
think
that
what
Bruce
was
just
talking
about
are
some
of
the
best
models
to
start
with
now.
Some
of
the
versions
of
the
Phoenix
hand,
the
kinetic
hand,
depending
on
the
use
case,
can
be
really
good
models.
There
are
a
top
five
models
linked
on
the
site.
I'll
put
that
chat
in
too,
which
is
always
a
great
place
to
start.
D
E
D
D
Let
me
see
where's
the
top
intro
designs
here,
so
I'm
also
we're
kind
of
converging.
Here.
We've
got
some
newcomers.
We've
got
some
seasoned,
3D
printing,
Pros
I'm
wondering
if
we
could
hear
from
the
newcomers
about
like.
Where
do
you
think
you
would
start
I
I
think
always
picking
a
design
and
making
it,
but
what
type
of
design
are
you
interested
in.
G
Can
I
go
yeah?
We
we
started
with
the
Phoenix
hands,
we
printed
two
and
it
was
a
great
way
to
start.
We
we
printed
them.
We
had
no
problem
assembling
them,
even
though
we
don't
have
the
access
to
the
kids,
because
well
since
we're
far
the
the
cost
will
will.
If
we
buy
the
kids
and
it's
gonna,
be
it's
gonna,
be
increment.
The
costs
and
the
shipping
is
it's
an
issue,
so
we
try
to
do
it
with
the
stuff
we
had.
So
we
got
the
fishing
line.
G
It's
I,
don't
think
it's
the
the
same
one,
but
it
worked.
Okay.
Also,
we
have.
We
have
not
yet
figured
out
what
material
used
for
the
padding
to
use
for
the
the
internal
padding,
which
is
the
contact
with
the
skin
and
also
for
the
the
silicone
fingertips
as
I
see
that
they're
very
important
10
because
for
the
grip
is
going
to
be
depends
on
the
signal
on
the
Silicon.
G
So
since
we
didn't
have
the
the
fingertips
we
I
read
somewhere
in
the
hub
that
we
could
use
silicon
blue
just
a
glue
stick.
So
we
we
sort
of
put
some
glue
and
the
grip
improved,
but
yeah
I
don't
know
if
there
is
a
way.
I,
don't
know
if
it's
enough,
since
we
don't
have
another
one
to
compare
it
with.
G
I
So
one
of
my
students
is
exploring
using
some
I.
Don't
remember
the
exact
material,
but
I
can
I.
Can
we're
going
to
take
a
look
at
that?
It's
it's
a
it's
a
dip
and
you
put
the
fingertip
in
and
it
basically
cures
and
it's
fairly
tacky
and
it's
supposed
to
be
a
nerk
once
it
once
it's
cured.
It's
about
a
four
hour
cure,
but
I
I
can
let
you
know
or
post
what?
What
comes
of
that
yeah.
D
We've
also
done
stuff
with
like
PPU
inserts,
so
some
of
these
designs
do
have
a
TPU
printable
set
and
if
you
can
print
in
a
flexible
material
that
can
be
fairly
grippy,
we've
also
looked
at
stuff
like
like,
like
Bruce,
is
talking
about
like
Plasti
Dip,
which
is
just
like
a
spray
paint.
Can
it's
made
for
Tool
handles
I,
don't
know
Dr
Rick.
Do
you
have
any
other
grippy
stuff
that
you
like?
J
J
E
E
B
K
I
I
D
D
I
A
Engraving
and
stuff,
like
that
I
thought
that
might
be
cool
too
I
I
did
have
a
quick
side
question
about
what
we
are
previously
talking
about.
So
do
you
recommend,
starting
with
the
Phoenix
V3,
because
I
also
noticed,
there's
like
the
top
three
or
four
are
somewhat
similar,
and
so,
if
you're,
just
starting
out
what
would
be
sort
of
like
a
good
one
to
get
into
and
I
also
don't
mind
doing
the
hardest
one
just
to
like
you
know,
try
it
out
and
see
what
that's
that.
What
what
that
feels
like?
D
C
Point
I
would
recommend,
starting
with
the
Phoenix
V3
and
the
reason
I
recommend.
That
is
because
it's
it's
exactly
the
same
as
the
unlimited
Phoenix
hand,
except
that
we
added
in
some
labels
on
the
ends
of
the
pins,
because
it
can
get
a
little
confusing,
there's
a
lot
of
little
pins
and
they
look
very
similar
but
they're
actually
different
sizes.
So
we
put
little
numbers
or
actually
letters,
I
think
on
the
ends
of
each
pin
and
there's
a
corresponding
assembly
guide,
and
it's
in
the
device.
C
Catalog
you'll
see
there's
a
link
to
these
printable
placemats
and
it's
an
11
by
17
sheet
and
on
one
side
it
has
a
an
exploded
diagram
of
all
the
parts,
and
that
includes
references
to
those
pins
by
the
labels.
So
it
makes
it
really
easy
to
see
which
pin
goes
where
on
the
hand
and
then
on
the
back
side
of
that
you've
got
an
actual,
step-by-step
assembly
guide.
C
C
At
the
kinetic
hand,
it
is
a
little
bit
more
challenging
because
it
involves
printing
with
some
flexible
materials
like
a
TPU,
but
the
documentation
is
excellent,
excellent
documentation
and
really
gives
you
everything
that
you
need
so
as
long
as
you're
willing
to
get
into
printing
a
few
pieces
of
that
flexible
material,
it's
a
very
attractive
design.
It's
a
very
cool,
looking
hand.
D
I
agree
that
documentation
is,
is
some
of
the
best
technical
documentation,
I've
seen
anywhere
I.
Think
that's
one
of
the
great
things
about
this
community.
It's
not
just
the
making
the
shapes
and
getting
them
in
front
of
people,
but
there's
opportunities
to
write
documentation
to
write
use
guides
to
adapt
to
specific
situations.
There's
just
so
many
Place
testing.
We
could
use
a
lot
of
help
with
just
strength,
testing,
so
I
think
Beyond
just
making
hands
for
recipients.
There's
a
huge
amount
to
be
involved
with
the
enable
community,
Through
The
Hub.
J
K
C
It
is
we
we
do
recommend
pet
G
when
possible
and
and
I
know
most
people
are,
you
know
familiar
with
pla.
It's
a
very
comfortable
and
easy
material
to
work
with
pla
is
fine
in
certain
cases,
if
you're,
especially
if
you
find
your
that
you're
making
a
device
for,
for
example,
younger
folks
children
here
in
the
U.S,
where
it
doesn't
get
crazy,
hot
pla
will
be
okay
and
it's
not
as
strong.
C
But
you
know,
kids
are
going
to
break
these
things
anyway
and
you're
going
to
make
a
new
one
as
they
grow
out
of
it
within
a
year.
So
pla
is.
It
tends
to
be
okay
for
those.
The
reason
we
recommend
pet
G
is
because,
in
hotter,
climates
pla
will
start
to
deform
like
if
you
leave
one
in
your
car
on
a
hot
day,
it
will
be
a
different
shape
when
you
come
back
and
that
doesn't
happen
with
pet
G
right.
There
are
other
materials
that
are
also
high
temp.
What's
nice
about
pet
G?
C
Is
it's
got
enough
temperature
resistance
to
hold
up
in
hotter
climates,
yet
you
can
still
thermoform
it
so
like,
for
example,
if
you're
using
the
approach
of
putting
it
in
boiling
water,
which
is
one
way
of
thermoforming,
you
have
to
put
it
in
a
little
longer.
You
might
have
to
leave
it
for
about
30
seconds.
Instead
of
you
know,
10
seconds
with
pla,
but
you
can
and
Thermo
format.
C
Still
and
again
you
can
use
a
heat
gun
as
well,
so
it
kind
of
has
that
balance
of
you
get
much
more
strength
and
much
more
heat
resistance
compared
to
pla.
But
it's
also
still
thermoformable
and
as
a
side
note
and
I'm
sorry
for
the
doing
a
plug
here.
But
I
will
mention
that
my
business
3D
Universe,
because
we
really
try
to
support
the
enable
Community.
We
actually
have
produced
our
own
pet
G
material,
that
we
have
it
in
a
bunch
of
colors
But.
It
includes
four
skin
tone.
C
D
The
other
thing
I
would
add
to
that.
That's
a
super
helpful
summary
is
the
fail
State,
the
way
that
pla
breaks
can
often
be
brittle.
It
can
sort
of
shatter
on
the
colder
side
too,
and
Peggy
has
a
much
more
ductile,
flexible
failure,
State
and
some
plas
with
the
silk
additives
also
have
this.
We
found
this
out
when
we
were
making
a
lot
of
PPE
during
the
pandemic.
G
Could
be
you,
but
we
just
started.
We
just
got
right
now.
Today
we
just
got
the
the
first
two
filaments,
so
there's
a
a
teacher,
a
sports
teacher
at
our
school
who
is
missing.
I
posted
the
pictures
on
the
Hub
I,
don't
know
if
anyone,
if
you
saw
it,
he's
missing
three
fingers.
He
was
more
this
way
and
two
five
fingers
in
both
of
his
hands.
So
we,
since
we
didn't,
have
the
the
TPU
we
we
printed
the
first
Nick
finger
in
pla,
but
okay,
obviously
we
can.
G
D
Totally
we
experiment
with
all
sorts
of
weird
stuff
and
break
a
lot
of
machines,
doing
it
for
for
GPU.
The
key
is
use
a
direct
drive
machine,
not
a
Bowden,
driven
machine,
so
you're
not
pushing
through
a
tube
use,
one
where
the
motor
is
on
the
carriage,
because
when
you
push
rope,
it'll
often
bind
the
whole
thing.
There
is
much
slower
printing
speed.
We.
G
D
Newtons
of
grip
and
dual
gear:
that's
a
very
good
one!
That's
a
great
printer!
It
prints
a
little
hotter,
so
you're
going
to
be
probably
closer
to
240
Celsius
than
like
200
for
PLA
and
a
lot
slower
like
30
to
40
millimeters
per
second,
instead
of
like
50
to
100
on
the
pla
side,
and
you
have
to
turn
retraction
off
because
if
you
run
the
motor
backwards
to
do
retraction,
some
machines,
if
they
have
good
tolerances,
can
the
sprite's
a
pretty
good
one.
But
we
always
think
of
like
high
percentage
printing.
D
F
I
have
two
questions,
one
just
off
what
you
were
saying.
Do
you
have
like
a
few
quick
tips
for
PE
or
what
is
it
p
e
t
g,
the
other
one
that
was
being
talked
about.
I
know:
there's
talk
about
like
having
a
glue
stick
on
the
base
so
that
it
like
comes
off
easily
and
but
yeah
do
you
have
any
other
if
I
sell
that
one
over
pla
I've
done
lots
of
pla
Prints,
but
I'd.
D
Say
like
bed,
adhesion
is
a
little
harder.
It
can
print
a
little
hotter,
so
your
temperature
is
going
to
be
a
little
hotter.
It
can
print
at
similar
speeds,
but
I
would
make
sure
that
you
have
a
little
more
bed
adhesion,
whether
you're
using
glue.
Stick
is
great
or
more
textured
build
surface.
If
you
have
that
dialed
in
blue
tape
is
also
high
percentage
printing.
We
don't
like
to
waste
all
the
tape.
It
can
be
expensive,
but
it
can
make
it
more
likely
to
have
better
adhesion
right.
F
I
mean
not
completely,
but
as
someone
who's
just
started
looking
into
this
about
four
hours
ago
and
like
is
still
figuring
stuff
out,
how
much
like
customization
is
needed
for
different
models
like
I
noticed
that
there's
the
the
scaling
of
the
hand
that
is
like
one
big
factor
of
it
but
I.
Imagine
like
everyone's
situation
is
different.
F
I
also
noticed
that
there
was
like,
depending
on
what
like
bones:
independent
like
joints
and
stuff
still
exist,
there's
different
like
considerations
to
make
there,
but
is
there
like
many
situations
where
you're
going
in
and
changing
the
model
itself,
Beyond,
just
scaling
or
yeah?
What
kind
of
insights
do
you
guys
have
on
that?
One.
J
J
If
you're
really
beginning
I
would
try
to
familiarize
my
well
myself
with
open,
S,
CAD
and
the
reason
I
say
that
is
any
of
the
parametric
hands
typically
are
distributed
in
open,
S,
CAD
format
and
just
getting
a
little
familiarity
with
that
is
is
awesome
because
it's
an
amazing
package,
it's
free,
it's
open
source
and
it
I
mean
you
can
do
almost
anything
with
it.
Now.
Some
of
the
hands
you
know
are
a
little
more
difficult
you
you
actually
have
to
go
in
and
possibly
make
some
changes.
J
I,
don't
know
if
you
have
bad
people
in
your
organization
or
if
you're
a
pad
person
yourself.
Mesh
mixer
is
a
great
thing
if
you're
really
not
good
with
pad,
because
it
does
an
awful
lot
of
good
stuff
with
stls
a
lot
of
the
cad
packages.
Importing
an
STL
is
a
nightmare
because
you've
got
to
convert
it,
of
course,
to
other
formats
before
you
can
do
anything
useful
with
it.
J
Whereas
mesh
kind
of
just
lets
you
deal
with
STL
natively,
you
can
do
some
amazing
things
with
that
and
I
I
guess
I
would
I
I
guess
I
would
tend
to
lean
towards
the
parametrics
first,
because
you
don't
really
have
to
do
anything
except
put
in
your
parameters.
You
would
put
in
like
there's
a
little
variable.
You
say
well,
I
need
it
to
be
this
wide
and
this
tall
and
then
open
S
CAD.
J
Just
just
does
the
job
for
you
you're
not
always
going
to
be
that
lucky
that
everything
that
you're
trying
to
do
is
in
open,
S,
Pad,
but
I.
Think
it'll
give
you
a
lot
of
insight
on
on
how
this
stuff
works,
parametric
versus
not
non-parametric
and,
as
you
get
to
the
more
sophisticated
Bill
like
the
Oahu,
build
you'll,
find
that's
all
open,
ask
ad
and
that's
probably
one
of
the
hardest
ones
to
build
so
from
the
easiest
to
the
hardest.
It
it
it
spans.
D
It
also
depends
what
type
of
data
you
have
from
the
person
if
you're
just
taking
measurements.
That's
probably
you
want
to
start
with
an
open
scad
model
where
you
can
type
in
those
variables
and
then
figure
out
some
pliable
nice
material
for
the
can
the
mechanical
connection.
If
you
have
access
to
3D
scanners,
you
can
also
take
a
3D
model
of
it
and
bring
that
into
the
design
tool
and
in
mesh
mixer.
D
You
could
just
do
a
Boolean,
subtraction
and
subtract
out
that
physical
shape
from
the
design
when
they're
at
the
same
scale,
in
the
design
tool,
that's
cool
and
more
and
more,
like
phones
and
stuff
have
scanning
technology.
You
can
get
a
pretty
good
model.
It
doesn't
have
to
be
the
highest
resolution
to
work
with
these
tools.
G
D
A
D
Guides
and
things
everybody
jump
in
here,
but
my
two
things
that
start
with
is
getting
a
good
level
learning
how
to
friction
level
and
then
learning
how
to
live
level
so
using
a
feeler
gauge
to
make
sure
that
the
distance
from
the
nozzle
to
the
build
plate
is
uniform
around
the
whole
build
plate.
Leveling
has
nothing
to
do
with
gravity.
The
printer
prints
great
upside
down,
it's
the
Gap
from
the
nozzle
to
the
platform,
and
so
first
thing
is
getting
a
feel
for
getting
the
Gap
the
same
everywhere.
D
Then
once
you've
got
that
as
a
feel,
I
usually
use
a
Post-It
note
and
just
feel
it
all
around
then
doing
a
live
level
where
you
print
a
bunch
of
concentric
squares
around
the
edges
of
the
platform
in
the
middle
of
the
platform
and
watching
as
it's
running
and
making
micro
adjustments
of
the
machine.
I
find
85
to
90
percent
of
printing
problems
can
be
fixed
at
that
stage.
D
The
next
stage
is
e-step
calibration,
making
sure
that
when
you
tell
the
machine
to
print
out
10
millimeters
of
material,
does
it
actually
print
10
millimeters
of
material,
and
you
can
do
that
for
all
of
the
control
axes
x,
y
z
and
E,
and
the
way
they
do.
This
is
like
you'll
find
guides,
but
at
a
high
level,
you're,
basically
like
measure
10
millimeters
of
material
and
mark
it
on
the
filament
like
with
calipers,
and
then
you
tell
the
machine,
extrude,
10
millimeters
and
you
see
how
close
it
is
to
that
Mark.
D
You
made
if
it's
under
add
more.
If
it's
over
add
less
and
then
you
can
print
a
calibration
Cube
like
a
20,
millimeter,
Cube,
Check,
Your,
X,
Y
and
Z
Dimensions
with
calipers
and
same
thing.
You
can
change
those
numbers
and
there's
G-Code
commands
where
you
can
input
the
number
of
e-steps
or
XYZ
steps
and
those
calibrate
to
millimeters
of
movement.
A
Awesome
I
have
done
one
of
those
things
with
the
the
Ender
generates
like
a
mesh
and
sort
of
guides.
You
through
doing
some
of
that
initially,
and
so
I
did
that,
but
the
other
stuff
I
have
not
done
so
that
that's
pretty
exciting
to
get
into,
and
my
second
question
is:
what's
the
best
way
to
like
reach
out
for
questions
or
reach
out
for
I
know,
there's
emails
and
things
like
that,
but
probably
don't
want
to
like
overwhelm
you
with
a
bunch
of
questions.
D
C
J
Also,
if
you
have
a
printer
I
know
all
our
printers
have
real-time
leveling
and
calibration
built
in,
but
it
doesn't
work
unless
you
turn
it
on
it.
Does
its
fault
is
off,
so
it
takes
a
little
more
time
before
the
print
actually
starts.
So
as
soon
as
you
start,
your
print,
the
printer
will
start
to
go
through
full
calibration
every
time.
It's
maybe
a
minute.
D
J
And-
and
they
come
most
of
the
time
turned
off,
because
people
see
it
as
an
annoyance,
it's
not
nearly
as
annoying
as
getting
90
through
a
24-hour
print
and
then
having
a
wreck
that
that's
annoying.
So
it's
very
worthwhile
and
and
also
I
heard
somebody
mention
earlier
about
the
glue.
Stick,
not
all
glue
sticks
are
created,
equal,
some
of
them
are
absolutely
horrible
and
actually
can
can
cause
your
machine
to
get
get
gunky
hard
to
clean
up.
C
And
if
you
guys
will
forgive
me
for
making
one
more
plug
here,
I
my
personal
favorite
has
always
been
magigoo.
There's
a
link
there
in
chat.
It'll
cost
you
a
few
bucks
more.
But
what's
really
nice
about
magigu
is
it's
a
it's
a
heat
activated
adhesive,
so
you
put
a
layer
on
your
bed.
Your
Parts
stick
beautifully,
but
as
soon
as
the
bed
cools,
you
can
literally
just
lift
the
part
off.
It's
just
it
just
releases.
C
D
That's
really
great
advice.
Another
thing
I
would
recommend
as
you're
building
confidence
is
spiral
design,
which
is
the
concept
that
you
start
small,
but
do
a
full
prototype.
And
then
you
go
a
little
more
aggressive
and
do
a
full
prototype
and
you
slowly
build
confidence
in
the
machine,
so
I
wouldn't
throw
on
a
48
hour
process
with
all
of
the
fingers
rafted
together
and
the
hand
I
would
start
with
a
couple
fingers
as
solo
prints.
D
You
know
and
then
add
the
gauntlet
by
itself
and
then
over
time,
as
you
trust
the
machine's
calibration
more
and
more,
then
you
can
start
putting
all
the
parts
together
and
I
would
say,
adding
a
raft
that
holds
it.
All
together
is
high
percentage
printing
you're
more
likely
to
have
success,
because
if
one
part
breaks
off
and
starts
bumping
into
all
the
others,
it
can
be
disastrous.
It
can
damage
the
machine
and
you
really
want
to
build
that
confidence.
You
feel
good
and,
like
you
know
what
the
machine
is
going
to
do.
C
So
that
I
I
just
want
to
add
to
that,
because
you
know
it's
exactly
right,
and
this
goes
back
to
what
he
was
saying
about,
leveling
being
so
critical,
there's
nothing
more
important
when
you're
printing
than
your
first
layer
and
I
always
recommend
strongly
that
you
do
not
walk
away
from
your
printer
until
the
entire
first
layer
has
finished.
You
want
to
watch
that
first
layer
as
it
goes
down,
make
sure
that
everything
is
sticking
well.
Nothing
is
peeling
up
at
the
edges.
C
If
you
see
defects
in
your
first
layer,
there's
a
very
good
chance
that
those
defects
will
build
as
more
layers
get
piled
on
and
your
print
is
likely
to
fail
if
your
first
layer
goes
down
well
and
everything
is
sticking,
there's
a
very
high
chance
that
the
rest
of
your
print
is
going
to
go
just
fine.
Almost
always
the
issues
will
be
apparent
in
that
first
layer,
so
I
always
recommend
that
you,
you
watch
that
first
layer
to
avoid
you
know
a
mess
when
you
come
back.
D
A
C
Depends
on
what
you're
printing
most
of
the
designs,
including
the
recommended
designs
that
we
talked
about
before
those
are
designed
to
print
without
supports.
Now,
having
said
that,
when
you
print
the
Palm
component
of
the
Phoenix,
which
includes
that
sort
of
curved
part
of
the
top
of
the
poem,
you
will
see
some
messiness
on
the
inside
under
surface
of
the
Palm
there's
going
to
be
what's
called
dropped
threads
there's
going
to
be
some
little
messy
remnants
of
filament
in
there.
That's
okay!
C
C
Just
because
you
know
you
could
do
it
with
supports
and
and
then
you
won't
have
that
messiness
but
you're
using
a
lot
more
material
and
it
takes
a
lot
longer
to
print,
and
then
you
got
to
pull
out
the
supports
and,
more
importantly,
if
you
choose
to
use
supports,
you
have
to
be
very
careful
about
how
you
do
that.
You
don't
want
supports
to
just
go
everywhere,
because,
what's
going
to
happen,
is
you'll
end
up
with
supports
inside
those
cable
channels
and
you're
never
going
to
be
able
to
get
them
out.
C
So
if
you
do
want
to
use
supports
which
I
don't
recommend,
you
would
have
to
use
what
are
called
support
blockers,
which
is
a
more
advanced
thing
in
the
slicer
to
actually
tell
it,
don't
put
supports
in
these
areas.
Only
put
them
here.
But
again,
our
designs
are
almost
all
designed
to
print
without
supports.
J
It
is
absolutely
astonishing
how
much
money
you're
going
to
save,
because
it
actually
has
a
new
support
area
that
works
a
lot
like
mesh
mixer,
the
when
you
build
your
supports
there.
It
actually
builds
thread
support.
So
instead
of
having
these
gigantic
infill
supports,
that
will
use
up
more
material,
probably
than
the
hand
you're
printing.
It
only
puts
them
in
a
very
restrictive
areas
where
they're
you
actually
can
set
at
what
angle.
Usually
I
set
mine
at
45
degrees
and
it
won't
fill
the
holes.
It
won't
do
any
of
that
it.
C
Can
even
manually
place
your
sports
wherever
you
want
using?
You
can
just
click
to
say,
I
want
to
support
you
and
it'll
put
little
columns
in
and
then
it'll
it'll
translate
that
into
supports
for
that
area
and
as
a
matter
of
fact,
you
can
do
that
in
Cura.
Now
too,
A
lot
of
people
use
Cura
and
they
they
do
have.
Support
for
custom,
supports
through
a
free
plug-in
as
well.
So
you
can
do
that
with
both
of
those.
D
We've
been
amazed
too,
with
the
new
prusa
slicer
2.6,
which
is
not
on
our
website.
It's
on
their
GitHub
I,
just
linked
it.
That
does
also
the
tree
support,
custom,
support
and
mesh
repair
and
optimization.
It's
like
a
whole
toolkit
now
worth
checking
out,
and
it's
free.
If
you
want
to
try
that
before
you
invest
in
simplify,
would.
D
And
we'll
wrap
up
in
the
next
minute
or
two,
the
last
I
put
a
couple
more
resources
in
here.
The
simplify
3D
troubleshooting
guide
is
amazing,
where
it
shows
you
a
picture
of
what's
going
wrong
and
you
can
look
through
what
it
does
I
put
up,
my
favorite
leveling
spreadsheet
thing,
because
I
got
pictures
of
good
levels
and
bad
levels
and
what
to
do
and
I.
The
other
thing
to
note
is
if
you're
getting
into
the
TPU
stuff
and
you're,
using
the
same
machine
and
you're
switching
between
different
materials.
All
the
time
we've
noticed.
D
Sometimes
that's
can
cause
some
jamming
or
issues
and
I
put
a
de-clogging
tool
that
we
like
just
like
a
1.5
millimeter
or
1.75
millimeter
hex
wrench.
So
you
can
like
push
through
the
breach
and
really
push
out
all
the
material
between
material
swaps
is
going
to
be
really
helpful
to
to
not
have
the
machine
jam
up
on
you
as
you're,
getting
more
advanced.