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From YouTube: Large Printer Design - Z Axes
Description
Working doc at https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1Ww7rGXRWMifXcbiGd9x_fzQ4G7xQtU524IafKsVfY1g/edit#slide=id.gf57fa4f28f_4_0
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B
It's
quite
it's
quite
good.
This
is
pretty
flat
on
the
floor.
At
least
that
side
and
and
the
at
least
the
two
sides
that
were
built
on
the
floor
are
going
to
be
pretty
good
and
other
ones
we'll
see
how
they
are
the
most
challenging
in
the
result
was,
I
guess,
the
top
were
like
the
far
side
there,
the
top
where
we
had
to
get
it
into
place.
I
mean
we
got
it
to
it
within
like
a
quarter
inch
of
the
the
other
sides,
but
there
it
might
be
off
a
little
bit.
B
If
you
look
at
it
just
visual
inspection,
you
don't
see
that
it's
like
all
wonky
it's.
It
looks
relatively
good,
but
just
to
review.
How
do
you
do
the
universal
frame
just
to
review?
We
don't
have
this
another
time,
but
it's
a
good
point
to
review
now
that
we've
got
this
other
frame
technique
to
add
to
our
universal
frame
technique.
Section.
C
B
Different
ways
to
make
frames
as
far
as
all
that
we
have
done
so
the
largest
is
the
rebar
trusses.
We've
done
one
of
these
rebar
trusses,
and
this
is
a
kind
of
structure
we're
actually
intending
to
build
for
the
workshop
we
built
now.
This
is
a
six-sided
frame
out
of
half
inch
by
four
inch
steel
for
a
heavier
machine
that
we
did
with
the
six
sided
frame
method
and
that
works
quite
well.
B
E
B
So,
let's
take
a
look
at
what
that
looks
like,
but
what's
the
pattern
of
the
bars,
so
you
cut
you
can
and
to
make
it
simple
conceptually
as
far
as
how
you
build
it
cut
one
length,
only
you
don't
even
need
to
worry
about
multiple
lengths
of
bar,
but
how
do
you
get
the
sides
to
be
square?
Well,
you
do
this
thing
well
how?
How
do
you?
Okay,
so
I
got
let's.
This
is
a
question
for
you
guys
then.
So
tell
me:
how
am
I
gonna
get
something?
B
B
B
That
way,
you've
got
one
part
count
for
the
entire
frame.
It's
the
bar
that
you
cut
to
the
same
length.
So
this
is
the
technique
for
large
frames
that
that
I
would
prefer,
because,
as
long
as
you
have
this
relatively
decent-
and
you
can
pay
attention
to
this-
you
can
measure
the
cross.
You
can
do
it
on
a
welding
table,
so
it's
flat
you're,
starting
with
a
flat.
It's
simple.
This
is
designed
for
fabrication
here
large
frame.
This
is
what
I
would
prefer
for
larger
frames.
B
B
What
we
typically
did
was
with
this
was
actually
get
the
cnc
cut,
so
okay
you're
avoiding
all
kinds
of
inaccuracies,
so
this
is
once
again
a
six-sided
frame
method
and
that's
what
it
looks
like.
We
did
a
bunch
of
nested
frames
so
that
we
have
better
use
of
material.
B
The
if
you're
doing
very
large
frames
like
this,
like
six
by
six
six
by
nine
you're,
not
going
to
get
that
out
of
cnc
cuts
because
they
don't
make
material
that
big
they
do.
You
have
up
to
6
by
12
sheet
steel.
B
It's
not
super
stock.
It's
might
be
more
expensive.
But
if
you
want
anything
larger,
you
can't
do
the
cnc
cuts.
You
do
want
to
do
strips.
You
can
get
strips
standard
lengths
of
20
feet,
so
you
can
get
20
feet,
so
you
can
make
a
20
by
20
by
20
frame
using
this
technique,
which
we
outlined
here
using
this
technique.
So
this
applies
up
to
20
by
20
by
20.,
from
very
small,
like
even
the
very
small.
If
you
don't
want
to
go
to
a
you,
don't
have
a
cnc
cutter.
B
You
just
take
take
strip
thin
bar
and
do
this
thing
and
it's
it's
quite
precise,
because
you
can
pay
attention,
you
can
have
a
jig
where
you
put
in
your
four
members
and
just
line
up
against
the
jig
and
you've
got
pretty
much
perfect
pieces.
Just
gotta.
Wait.
Make
sure
that
when
you
tack
weld
your
welds
aren't
pulling,
but
if
you're
welding
from
the
top
you're
pulling
it
you're
not
really
pulling
it
you're
pulling
it.
B
B
So
the
other
frames
are
the
standard
stuff
bolted
bolted,
which
the
disadvantage
of
that
is
that
the
bolts
take
a
lot
of
space
and
they're,
not
usable,
because
it's
not
a
flat
surface
anymore.
So
you
have
to
work
around
them,
but
you
do
get
easy
structures
like
this
like
the
first.
B
Well,
that's
that
wasn't
the
first
that's
v2
or
even
the
ironworker
shears,
the
shear
cutters
like
this,
which
we
do
from
half
inch
tubing.
So
this
this
iron
worker
right
here
we
took
that
that
that
could
shear
one
by
ten
steel.
B
Yeah
we
did
that
in
2013
after
we
built
the
first
ironworker
which
took
us
six
months,
so
we
built
this
one
in
two
days,
so
to
just
to
prove
that
you
can
reduce
prototyping
cycles
from
months
to
days
by
using
modular
design.
This
is
just
a
very
basic
modular
design,
using
the
frame
bolted
frame
method,
so
using
stock
tubing
here
doing
a
frame
for
it
could
be
could
apply
to
a
torch
table
or
something
like
that
once
again
from
the.
B
B
The
blade
gap
has
to
be
pretty
precise,
but
you
can
get
that
because
you've
got
flat
pieces
of
steel
that
are
bonding
this
thing
together,
so
you
can
actually
get
a
pretty
precise
blade
gap
and
make
good
cuts.
So
here's
you
know
like
a
forty
thousand
dollar
machine
for
like
two
thousand
dollars
in
materials.
B
B
A
B
Okay,
yeah
this.
This
thing
has
the
slits
which,
because
of.
A
B
Yeah
they've
got
a
slit,
so
that's
it's
just
a
great
way
to
hold
everything
together
and
then,
when
everything
goes
into
the
the
slits,
it's
guaranteed
to
be
a
cube.
Okay,
no
matt!
If,
as
long
as
all
your
members
are
the
same
length,
you're
guaranteed.
F
B
B
We,
we
do
have
that
designer
within
freecad,
so
you
can
make
custom
versions
of
this,
but
it's
a
cool
thing
and
it
would
apply
to
this
frame,
but
not
structurally,
because
plastic
is
not
going
to
hold
this
huge
frame
that
weighs
500
pounds
unless
you
print
these
very
thick,
which
you
could
I'll
just
take
you
a
bunch
of
material,
so
an
effective
way
for
these
to
work
on
a
very
large
frame
would
be
to
use
them
as
holders
and
then
weld
well,
basically
holders.
Basically,
a
jig.
B
Weld
your
connector
yeah
weld
like
you
know,
even
like
three
pieces
of
rebar
at
every
corner.
That
would
get
you
a
pretty
solid
connect
or
just
bars
like
three
bars
at
every
corner.
The
holding
is
the
tricky
part
because
you're
dealing
with
500
pounds
or
so
for
that
weight,
so
it
gets
pretty
intense.
B
These
are
the
cut
outs
as
on
a
cnc
torch
table
so
that
those
are
the
frame
frame.
Considerations.
B
So
here
largely
using
steel
right,
so
this
is
all
pretty
much
steel
and
yeah.
I
would
go
to
this
in
the
next
version,
because
I
you
know
yesterday
was
pretty
tiring.
This
would
be
less
tiring
because
you
have
to
just
put
put
them
up
like
the
part.
That's
tiring
is
like
working
the
the
clamps
and
things
that
don't
want
to
hold
together
and
you're
working
against
steel.
So
you
want
to
make
it
as
simple
as
possible.
B
B
Yeah,
it's
true,
you
could
do
it
so
so
there's
first,
we
do
want
to
stand
it
up,
because
we
should
probably
figure
out
where
it
should
live.
A
B
B
B
B
B
A
B
B
B
So
in
collaborative
design
ideal
here,
I'm
not
the
only
guy
doing
this.
There's
people
contributing
to
this
as
I'm
doing
it.
So
that's
the
up
these,
so
these
are
collaborative
docs,
meaning
that
anybody
can
edit
this.
The
share
permissions
here
are
anyone
on
the
internet
can
find
an
edit,
so
you
can
actually
go
into
this
dock
and
actually
real
time.
B
Do
this,
including
people
remotely,
because
this
is
on
the
internet.
So
once
again
I
mean
all
the
design
sessions
we
do.
All
all
that
I
do
here
is
it's
in
live
docs,
so
people
can
add
pages
and
make
that's
that's
what
we're
supposed
to
do
here
in
collaborative
design.
B
So
that's
the
up
direction
now,
where
do
we
put
so
we're
gonna
have
so
these
are
how
tall
they're
nine.
So
we
already
cut
the
rods.
We've
got
those
we
can
add
the
nine
foot
dimension.
B
Abrasive
cut
off
and
I
saw
somewhere
torched
the
torched
ends.
We
got
to
grind
that
so
and
also
the
cut-off
ends
too
they're
sharp
corners
so
so
grind
that
down
so
it's
actually
safe
to
handle.
So
you
can
get
cuts
on
it.
So
this
side
here
that's
going
to
be
your
nine
feet.
B
Now
we're
gonna,
where
exactly
we're
gonna
mount
the
axis,
which
is
going
to
be
six
feet
because
we
got
six
foot
rods
that
are
already
cut
to
stock
the
hollow
tubes.
So
there's
hollow
and
and
solid
so
solid
tubes,
vertically
solid
tubes
for
z,
because
that's
only
length
we
could
get
in
that
in
the
nine
foot
we
cut
it
down
from
20s.
B
B
B
How
high,
let's
just
say,
comfortable
working
height
of
six
speed
like
we're
like
right
there,
so
because
we
can
actually
move
this
as
we
work
everything
out.
It
means
that
we
can't
print
nine
feet,
but
all
the
mechanicals
we
can
work
out
and
and
all
of
that,
so
just
just
as
we're
building
this
and
we
can
easily
attach
it.
But
how
do
you
attach
it?
B
Let's
look
at
the
3d
printed
parts
in
the
cad,
so
we've
got
all
this
here.
What's
attaching
it's
the
motor
piece
which
is
here,
let's
just
download
this?
Oh
no,
let's
do
the
so
the
motor
piece
it's
on
gitlab,
because
it's
pretty
large
for
some
reason.
We
could
clean
it
up
and
probably
make
it
smaller,
but.
B
B
B
B
He
actually
ordered
this
printer
for
us
for
a
build
next
year,
so
he's
at
a
university
at
a
university
in
canada
right
now,
the
way
they
did
their
printers,
they
had
a
high
temperature
chamber,
but
they
had
the
belt
drive
inside
the
high
temperature
chamber.
It
was
like
below
the
bed,
but
still
that's
not
going
to
get
you
too
high
up.
B
You
want
to
keep
absolutely
everything
out
which
we're
doing
other
people
use.
I
mentioned
use,
bellows
or
other
means
some
people
try
to
cool
cool
their
motors.
It's
all
complexities,
just
keep
it
simple,
which
is
what
we
think
we're
doing
here
on
the
motor
piece.
I
took
the
idler
piece
added
tabs
and
put
holes.
B
B
B
Okay,
that's
a
bit
error
a
bit
of
an
error,
but
still
works
that
what
we
got
to
pay
attention
to
is
that
the
the
pulley
does
not
rub
on
the
plastic,
and
I
don't
think
it
should
because
I
tested
one,
but
the
prints
are
coming
up
all
all
on
square
man.
It's
it's
really
bad.
We
should
try
to
correct
the
axis.
B
I'm
not
really
seeing
what's
going
on,
because
I'm
when
I'm
looking
at
the
printer
itself,
the
x
and
y,
like
the
bed
and
the
z,
are
they
look
relatively
straight,
but
then
the
prints
or
not?
Can
any
insights?
That's
a
question
for
ben
yeah,
but
that's
it!
You
got
the
rods
going
in.
These
are
the
one-inch
rods.
B
I
just
butchered
this
thing
like
this
was
all
I
took
was
the
old
version.
You
see.
That's
all
egged
out.
I
just
said:
okay,
let
me
put
in
this
larger
one-inch
hole,
because
the
holes
here
were
too
small
and
the
spacing
was
different.
So
I
just
said:
okay,
let
me
put
the
spacing
correct
at
3.5.
B
The
rods
still
fit
in
there.
Okay
just
go
with
this,
because
we
have
time
so
this
holds
your
rods.
It
holds
the
motor
and
it's
good
enough.
So
how
do
you
attach
it
to
the
frame?
Well,
you've
got
these
these
bolt
holes
on
the
outside,
so
I
would
suggest
probably
doing
four
bolt
holes,
so
this
is
carrying
quite
a
bit
of
weight.
In
fact,
we
should
probably
do
a
load,
but
the
rods
can
be
sitting
on
the
ground,
so.
B
Well,
for
the
x
and
y,
we
got
hollow
rods,
so
it's
much
better.
It
would
be
like,
but
here
we
are
talking
about
quite
a
bit
of
weight,
but
the
rods
are
sitting.
So
all
this
is
preventing
is
the
rods
like
coming
out.
So
I
think
if
we
pay
attention
that
we
don't
like
drop
the
weight
of
the
rods
on
this,
which
we
won't,
because
the
rods
are
going
to
fall
through
to
the
ground,
but
then
we
can't
move.
B
This
can't
slide
this
thing
on
the
ground
you're
going
to
rip
this
thing
right
off:
yes,
okay!
So
as
long
as
we
do
that,
I
think,
like
four
bolt
holes
on
these
corners
or
even
like,
do
the
ones
which
are
more
meaty
like
in
the
middle
like
do
these
one,
two?
Okay,
so
I'm
pointing
pointing
to
these.
Maybe
do
this
one
that
one
that
one,
that
one
or
even
like
this
one
and
that
one
as
a
start,
but
probably
four-
these
are
quarter
inch.
B
So
I
think
four
would
be
a
good
idea
here,
which
ones
do
you
guys,
like
you
want
to
do
these
four
corners
on
the
outside
or
what
I
just
said.
B
B
Right
there's
this
one
here
is
like
towards
the
center
like
as
far
as
yeah,
what
we've
got
for
amount
of
plastic.
It's
like
these.
These
four
in
the
middle
look
like
the
best
ones
to
attach
to
right
now,
but
yeah.
That's
all
so
we
have
to
transfer
punch.
You
know
you
can
take
this.
As
a
template
transfer
punch
into
the
frame
drill,
your
holes
in
the
frame,
you
can
use
a
regular
drill.
B
You
can
use
a
mag
drill
too.
I
mean
a
regular
drill.
Is
it's
you
have
to
push
it
really
really
lean
into
it,
but
you
can
because.
A
B
So
anyway,
you
can
do
it
by
hand.
I
would
just
suggest
that,
because
that's
going
to
be
the
quickest
outside
of
just
setting
up
the
mag
drill,
which
you
can
because
you
can
mount
the
the
mag
drill
with
a
magnetic
base
to
the
frame,
so
you
could
do
that,
but
you
can
go
through
some
punishment
and
do
this
by
hand
which
will
be
faster,
because
we've
got
a
bunch
of
drills.
We
can
do
get
a
bunch
of
people
going,
whereas
we
have
only
two
mag
drills,
so
yeah
could
do
both.
B
B
F
B
B
B
Okay,
so
so
we
say:
okay,
cool
yeah,
I
mean
if
we
have
the
energy
for
it
by
all
means.
So
let's
do
it.
So
let's
do
a
slide,
duplicate
slide,
so
z,
z,
attachment.
B
F
B
B
Yeah
you
can
get
on
the
tables
yeah,
but
can
we
fit
them
around?
It's
six
plus
eight
14
feet.
Yeah
they'll
barely
fit,
but.
A
A
B
A
E
A
B
F
B
Okay,
so
the
question
is:
where
do
these
these
green
guys
go,
but
we're
not
there
yet
we're
saying
right
now:
they're
gonna
go
where
they
should
go,
which
is
at
the
top
right
below
the
top
bar,
so
that
you
can
here
you
can
you
got
the
bar
in
a
way,
so
you
need
to
have
this
so
what's
going
on
there?
B
B
Okay,
so
so
we
discussed
that
duplicate
this
slide
to
say,
z,
attachment.
B
Yeah
easier
to
do
wiring
because
you
just
need
the
the
wiring
to
the
motors.
A
B
I'm
not
sure
if
there's
any
difference,
the
only
difference
is.
If
you
get
a
flood
in
here,
you
burn
out
your
motors.
B
F
H
F
D
This
was
the
idea
we
were
going
to
use
the
the
pulleys
which
were
not
symmetrical.
They
were
not
symmetrical,
so
you
have
to
have
a
little.
B
B
B
B
B
B
Now
you
have
to
put
in
the
carriage
piece
too,
before
you
assemble
this,
because
you're
not
going
to
get
it
on
it's
not
so
this
is
where
the
clam
shells
would
be
convenient.
You
can
just
clamp
clam
shell
them
on
right.
Now
you
got
to
slip
it
in
from
the
top,
and
I
mean
someone
can
design
a
clam
shell
if
that's
actually.
B
B
B
So
then
yeah,
so
you
got
these.
That's
the
profile
of
the
the
idler
piece
and,
as
you
notice,
they're
all
pretty
tight
in
the
vertical
direction.
Just
three
inches,
that's
the
minimum
we
could
do
or
even
like
two
and
a
half
inches
or
so
because
the
bearings
are
only
two
1.25.
So
this
thing
is
only
2.5
tall,
2.5
inches.
So
that's,
basically
what
we've
got
for
our
axis
and
then
the
belt
we
put
the
motors
on.
We.
B
B
B
First,
you
want
the
the
steel
to
be
protecting
it
so
mount
it
like
an
inch,
just
maybe
in
the
middle
of
the
bar,
so
you
can
still
like
if
you
thread
the
belt
through,
let's
make
it
like
one
inch
from
the
bottom.
So
when
we
thread
the
belt
through
the
bottom,
you
can
push
the
it's
actually
gonna
be
hard.
So
if
we're
gonna
get
that
belt
around
there
either
we
pre-thread
it.
No,
let's
mount
it
as
high
as
possible
on
the
bar,
which
is
we
can
get
one
and
a
half
inches.
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
On
the
clothes
on
the
cap
side
cut
us
cut
a
small
shaft.
B
B
Yeah
don't
like
jam
it
all
the
way
it
might
get
jammed
up,
but
then
we
can
punch
it
back
out.
So
the
bearing
goes
all
the
way
in
the
the
shaft.
But
before
you
put
the
shaft
in
put
the
pulley
on
it,
so
cut
the
cut
the
shaft.
B
B
B
F
The
bearings
the
bearings
whatever.
H
B
Good
and
tight,
it
doesn't
really
need
a
if
they
were
press
fit,
but
we're
not
press
fitting
them
and
they're
just
thin
wall
enough
they're.
Only
like
eighth
inch
wall
that,
if
the
press
fit
is
too
tight,
you
might
deform
them.
B
B
B
B
So
if
you
see
here
use
a
small
flange
bearing
on
this
side
and
it
just
catches,
it.
B
B
Yep
use
the
30
use
a
small
flange
bearing
on
outer
side.
B
You
can
use
an
m6
by
18
there.
Why?
Because
look,
how
much
meat
you've
got?
You
only
have
this
much
meat
to
go
into
because
it
goes
out
there.
That's
only
point
four
inch:
you
don't
have
a
lot
of
meat
there.
So
most
of
the
holding
is
gonna
come
from
this
hole
here.
So
actually,
when
you
screw
it
down,
don't
strip
it
don't
strip
that
bolt
strip
that
hole
for
future
reference.
We
we
we
actually
would
want
to
build
that
up,
maybe
put
a
little.
In
fact,
we
do
that
right
now,.
B
B
B
So
this
is
kind
of
like
real
time
updating
here
and
this
this
thing
lives
on
a
wiki,
so
carriage
carriage
here,
upload
new
version.
So
let's
upload
a
new
version
of
this
file.
B
H
B
So
actually
it's
useful
like
I
would.
I
would
put
this
right
on
the
on
a
wiki
here.
B
So
the
stl
is
a
useful
file,
save
somebody
this
step
of
having
to
re-export
open
up
freecad
and
re-export.
So
I
would
go
carriage1s
this
one
just
upload
a
new
file
over
this
one.
So
since
we
just
did
that,
we
can
choose
this
carriage,
mod,
v2
stl
and
do
that
upload
it
there.
We
go
so
now.
This
new
upload
is
here
and
we
can
put
that
into
cura.
B
Oh,
what
happened
there,
so
the
grayed
out,
which
means
we're
pushing
the
limits
of
the
bed
layer
height,
was
0.6,
so
you
gotta,
I
think
my
bed
size
is
a
little
off
well,
let's
increase
that
a
little
bit.
B
Yeah,
my
bed
size
was
a
little
too
small.
The
question
is
how
how
wide
across
is
this?
It
has
to
be
like
5.5.
Is
that
so,
if.
B
B
Yeah,
so
that's
still,
if
it
gets
grayed
out,
go
to
machine
settings
but
yeah
we're
just
doing
this
for
yeah
and
then
you
save
g-code.
It
just
tells
you
carriage
mod
v2
g-code
desktop
well.
What
are
some
of
the
nice
parameters
you
got
to
set,
so
we
we
look
at
examine
this.
Just
for
production
engineering's
sake.
So
if
you
go
typically,
we
go
1.2
with
0.4
layer
height,
which
gets
you
really.
Nice
prints
very
tight
adhesion,
3
hours,
15
minutes.
B
B
B
B
Yeah,
take
a
look
at
what
we've
got
if
we,
if
we
find
not
if
the
parts
start
breaking,
we
do
like
point
four.
What
does
that
mean?
This
is
like
point
six.
You
know
they're
they're,
halfway
bound
through
point,
fours
they're,
even
tighter
bound
through
one
layer
to
the
next.
The
way
it
works,
you're
melting
into
the
former
layer.
That's
what
happens!
That's
how
it
works.
It's
not
about
the
layer
below
staying
staying
molten.
B
So
if
you
find
this
is
inadequate,
we
might
reduce
the
layer
height
and
or
I
mean
this
is
still
20-
it's
20.
You
can
go
solid,
so
at
0.6
layer
height,
whatever
you're
going
to
do
for
solid.
I
mean
this
changes
drastically.
So
if
we
printed
this
100
solid,
oh
it's
only
twice
as
much
in
four
hours,
so
that'll
be
our
next
step.
D
B
B
B
B
B
H
B
B
It's
here's
the
answer.
The
answer
is
per
weight.
Right,
it'll
be
the
same
yeah,
but
you
got
more
weight.
It's
actually
yeah!
It's
it's
not
it's
it's!
If
it's
got
a
hollow
core,
that's
got
zero
strength.
B
If
you
had
more
meat
inside
you'd
have
more
particles
matter
holding
more
matter.
It's
plain
stronger.
There's
no
question
about
it.
It's
just
kind
of
confusing
because
you
see
the
physical
reality
and
it
it
looks
kind
of
counter-intuitive
like
when
I
first
saw
that
the
straight
rod
does
not
sag.
My
first
impression
was:
is
this
thing
stronger
because
they
both
I
mean
they're,
both
like
hollow
rod?
They
both
weigh
something,
but
you
might
start
thinking
that
the
the
solid
rod
is
actually
like
weaker
because
of
something.
B
But
no
the
only
reason
is
gravity.
It's
it's
metal
bends.
It's
just
gravity!
That's
all!
So
it's
not
not
anything
to
do
with
its
strength.
It's
much
stronger.
Actually,
so
now
the
the
truth
would
come
out
once
you
start
hanging.
Well,
no,
no!
It
bends
a
lot
so
that
it's
kind
of
counterintuitive,
because
you
might
hang
a
solid
object
from
the.
B
The
filled
rod
and
it
still
would
fail
because
it
just
bends
because
it's
the
gravity
adding
and
the
other
object
adding.
But
if
you
added,
perhaps
like
a
very
small
small
weight
to
it
or
or
let's
look
at
it
a
different,
let's
shorten
it
up
to
three
feet
where
both
of
them
are
completely
solid.
Three
feet,
if
you
add
a
heavy
weight
to
it,
the
solid
one
would
not
deflect
anywhere
near
as
the
hollow
one
that.
C
Would
be
the
reality
there
when
you
say
that
just
to
be
clear,
like
on
the
design
side,
does
the
the
type
of
strength
you're
looking
for
matter
right
because
there's
like
different
qualities,
if
it
was,
if
yeah.
E
C
B
B
Yeah,
it
completely
depends
on
the
materials
and
composites
are
a
good
way
like
if
you
put
other
things
mixed
with
with
it.
You
might
have
super
light
structure
and
still
that
stiffness,
because
you
filled
up
that
inner
void
with
something
that's
more
stiff.
So
there's
stiffness,
there's
like
tensile,
compressive
strength,
there's
torsion
strength.
Those
properties
may
be
different
for
the
same
material,
they're,
typically
like
in
steel.
It's
it's
about
an
anisotropic
like
is
the
property
the
same
throughout
in
one
direction
versus
another,
like
wood,
certainly
does
not
have
the
same
properties
in
different
direction.
G
B
B
It
depends
depends
how
much
weight
if
you
got
a
ton
of
weight
like
a
lot
of
weight,
you
might
find
that
the
the
solid
one
might
actually
do
better
because
yeah
beyond
it's
hanging
by
its
own
weight
yeah,
I
don't
know
it
would
depend
you
can
actually
do
it
in
the
freecad
see
what
freecast
says.
It's
got
finite
element
analysis
because.
B
A
B
But
stainless
is
actually
a
very
good
idea:
it's
adding
chromium
to
steel,
which
makes
it
not
rust,
which
is
a
big
issue
like
all
this
stuff.
Here
rust,
we
just
migrated
to
stainless
steel
rods
for
the
the
small
3d
printers,
and
we
should
probably
do
that
for
the
big
rods
so
they're
going
to
rust
unless
you
oil
them
and
stuff
like
that,
if
they're
in
use
they'll
last
forever,
but
if
they
sit
around
they'll
rust,
but
then
you've
got
the
expense
of
stainless.
B
C
D
E
C
H
B
B
All
right,
okay,
so
back
to
the
large
3d
print,
so
you've
got
the
let's
see
carriage
piece
use
the
washer
on
the
interior
side,
where
we
get
sidetracked
yeah.
We
were
looking
at.
B
B
Okay,
well,
you
can
set
various
parameters.
The
ones
you
typically
want
to
work
with
are
like
layer
height,
shell
thickness.
It
means
how
much
how
many
layers
are
on
the
very
outside,
actually
2.4
makes
a
very
solid
shell.
1.2
works
pretty
well
too,
but
if
you
want
a
super
solid
part
with
less
infill,
do
a
thicker
shell,
which
makes
it
very
strong,
like
1.2
millimeter.
That
in
itself
is
very
strong.
B
B
Well,
20
only
takes
because
there's
already
so
much
mass
in
it
there's
enough
features.
20
percent.
I
was
already
like
50
percent
filled
in
support
type
with
the
pei
print
bed.
Surface
and
heated
bed,
don't
use
them.
Typically,
it
just
sticks.
Well,
temperature
printing
is
220
and
bed
temperature
is
60.
print
speed
of
25.
G
B
Toolpath
is
what
this
does.
It
says
it
says,
save
gcode
and
it
just
figures
everything
out
for
you,
assuming
that
it's
zeroed
now
shell
thickness
is
1.1.
I
take
it
to
1.2,
look
at
that.
That
was
enough
to
make
it
not
fit
on
the
bed.
This
can
you
can
control
with
a
1.2
nozzle?
You
can
print
thinner
layers
than
1.2.
B
B
Yeah
so
settings,
so
we
can
3d
print
this
if
we
printing,
new
ones,
can
download
the
new
part
fitting
bearings
now
belts
belts
are
the
next
thing.
We
need
belt,
pegs
and
belt
pinches
belt
clamps.
B
That
big
size,
I'm
not
sure,
you're
going
to
get
15
millimeters
in
that
depth
there
so
we'd
have
to
modify,
but
here
we've
got
one.
We
got
a
longer
one.
A
B
Yeah,
you
could
do
that,
you
can
do
a
little
melt,
metal,
clamp,
plastic
might
be
easier
or
maybe
not.
Maybe
we
got
to
go
to
the
because
now
we're
pushing
the
limits
of
how
much
you
got
to
clamp
so
that
clamp,
we
would
want
to
print,
probably
at
like
a
hundred
percent,
because
you
gotta
hold
that
belt.
B
E
B
E
E
B
A
B
Is
tight
against
the
rod
and
the
right
one
is
com
is
rather
loose.
Well,
if
you
have
the
next
one
over,
that's
got
the
outer
one
tight
and
the
inner
loose.
The
outer
one's
probably
constrained
enough
that
you
don't
have
any
wobble
yeah.
You
know
it's
there's
different
ways.
You
can
look
at
it,
but
ideally
you've
got
good
fit
on
each
side.
B
F
B
E
E
B
Possibly
or
half
inch
there
you're
talking
about
like
an
eighth
or
so
so,
but
here
pay
attention
to
this
distance.
So
let's,
let's
emphasize
these
two
distances
here.
B
They
need
to
be
the
same
for
this
nut
to
bind
up
going
up
or
the
rods
will
just
bend
out
quite
a
bit.
Now,
if
you
have
the
bed
attached
at
some
point
well,
that
determines
it's
definitely
going
to
be
good
there.
But
what
happens
when
you
go
up
and
down?
Is
it
still
going
to
be
parallel,
so
you
got
to
make
sure.
That's
all
good
so
here
that
make
sure
these
distances
are
equal.
B
And
then
it
will
have
a
working
z-axis
there.
Okay,
that's
that's
it!
I'm
not
too
concerned
about
the
individual
carriages
being
good,
because
I
mean
it's
such
a
long
length
and
you've
got
enough
flex
in
these
rods.
That
you'd
have
issues
only
very
close
to
the
top
and
bottom
just
like
on
other
printers.
Now,
because
it's
nine
feet
that
proportion
of
travel
is
much
smaller,
so
it'll
be
pretty
much
good
everywhere
unless
you
print
something,
that's
eight
feet,
you're
never
reaching
to
the
bottom.
B
D
B
B
A
D
B
B
E
B
B
Which
means
that
the
belt
will
be
slightly
wider
at
the
bottom.
I
don't
think
it
matters.
The
the
thing
that
would
matter
is
what
happens
with
the
carriage.
Does
the
carriage
in
this
picture
here?