►
From YouTube: CNC Torch Table Development - Working Meeting 9/28/17
Description
Here we continue with the technical development of the open source CNC Torch Table drive axis. With Ahmed, OSE Developer. Working on Universal axis system for the CNC torch table, building on prior work.
----
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A
This
that's
the
working
page,
d3d
cnc
torch
table.
What
we
have
done
so
far
is
in
an
upper.
Let
me
share
my
screen
as
well,
so
you
can
take
a
look
at
what
I'm
looking
at
and
just
to
explain
where
we're
at
so
in
the
upper
picture.
What
we
see
is
the
universal
axis
or
nice
system.
What
we're
showing
is
the
normal
3d
printers
style,
small
axis
and
then
a
much
bigger
one.
A
The
1
inch
rod
version
which
we
also,
which
we
already
got
to
move,
and
we
made
it
work
once
again
using
the
simple
Marlin
and
Arduino
the
ramps
board,
the
same
controller
as
on
the
3d
printer.
The
one
thing
we
want
to
do
from
here,
so
we
further
1.
We
have
modified
the
carrot,
the
white
piece,
that's
the
carriage
piece,
we've
modified
that
a
little
bit
to
make
it
less
bulky
to
make
it
faster
to
print
what
we
started
with
initially
was
3d
printed
bushings,
and
then
we
went
directly
to
two.
A
Bushings
are
brass
oil-filled
brass
bushings
that
that
are
inside
this
white
piece
and
they
work
quite
well.
I
mean
it's
decent,
so
we
were
able
to
get
this,
and
this
thing
here
is
about
one
one
and
a
half
meters,
long,
the
the
big
axis,
the
one-inch
axis.
It
was
driven
once
again
by
a
very
small
NEMA
17
motor
and
it
worked
great.
A
We
got
into
trouble
when
we
extended
this
from
5
feet
to
12
feet
so
about
4
meters.
We
extended
it
and
then
the
rods
were
so
heavy
that
they
would
sag
in
the
middle
a
little
bit.
So
this
works
for
the
shorter
axis
of
the
torch
table
like
1.5
meters,
which
would
be
the
short
axis,
but
the
long
axis
we
need
to
go
with
something
lighter
weight
and
the
changes
from
here
that
so
this
is
a
picture
of
the
bushing
is
that
we
used
initially
and
we
made
it
work.
A
We
move
this
around
with
these
bushings
a
little
bit,
but
they
definitely
have
more
friction.
Then,
when
the
brass
metal
bushings
once
again,
it's
the
same
kind
of
a
design,
you
you
send
which
the
rods
between
the
3d
printed
plastic
pieces.
Now,
if
you
do
go
to
the
the
larger
CNC
torch
table,
you
want
to
put
metal
plates
on
the
top
and
bottom
of
the
printed
pieces
for
more
strength.
I
mean
we're
talking
about
this
much
larger
axis.
A
You
want
to
reinforce
it,
especially
when
you're
connecting
let's
call
the
short
axis,
the
y
axis
and
the
long
axis
in
between
that
the
x
axis
the
long
one's
gonna,
be,
let's
say
the
long
one
is
the
x
axis,
because
we're
looking
say
we're
looking
for
at
the
torch
table
from
the
front,
the
front
is
defined
as
the
long
side,
because
that's
how
we
load
metal
on
it,
so
we're
looking
at
the
table
from
the
front
so,
but
this
is
a
the
general
idea.
There's
the
axis
and
I
mean
this.
A
B
A
Can't
see
anything
right
now:
let's,
let's
see
if
we
can
download
the
actual
file,
so
maybe
that's
easier
to
see
mm-hmm,
let's
see
if
you
can't
see
anything,
okay,
well,
I'm
recording
this,
so
maybe
maybe
you
can
take
a
look
at
it,
but
basically
the
the
when
you're
looking
forward
at
the
torch
table,
you're
looking
at
the
long
axis,
it's
going
through
the
left
and
right
and
then
the
short
axis
is
on
the
far
right
side.
Far
left
side.
Let
me
see
there's
another
picture
here
so
I'm
moving
on
to
the
next
page.
A
That's
linked
from
that
page,
which
is
the
CNC
torch
table
version.
17
point:
oh
eight,
so
I
just
pasted
a
link
in
there
and
take
a
look
at
that
there.
We
do
have
the
the
part
library
of
what
we
did
since
the
initial
build
so
Emanuel
and
he
was
here
he
drew
up
the
better
version
of
the
axis
which
has.
A
The
carriage
piece
where
you've
got
the
motor
piece,
the
idler
piece
and
the
carriage
piece,
the
carriage
piece-
is
not
full
plastic,
it's
actually
two
short
pieces
of
plastic
bound
by
two
pieces
of
metal
and
then
the
short
pieces
of
plastic
have
the
belt
catcher
and
they
have
the
bushing
holders.
That's
the
complex
geometries,
where,
as
the
metal
provides
the
real
structure
to
this
and.
B
A
A
Well,
it's
you
know,
saves
resources,
and
then
we
have
to
consider
how,
in
this
one
here,
I'm
not
sure
full
considerations
are
made
for
how
you
attach
the
second
axis
to
that,
because
so
this
is
the
carriage
say
of
the
of
the
y-axis.
You
need
to
attach
the
other
axis
to
the
carriage
I.
Don't
think
this
has
the
proper
bolt
holes
for
that,
because,
typically,
what
we
did
in
our
normal
design
is
that
then
there's
nut
catchers
and
both
the
motor
piece.
A
So
if
you
take
a
look
at
the
motor
piece
here,
you
see
that
there's
three
nut
catchers
and
those
three
nut
catchers
there
there's
bolts
that
go
in
there
that
connect
this
at
a
right
angle
to
a
carriage
of
another
axis.
If
you
can
follow
that
and
if
you
can't
really
follow,
you
can
take
a
review
of
this.
This
video
so
where
we
are
at,
is
we've
never
properly
connected.
A
So
so
this
part
here
has
to
be
modified
like
right,
yeah,
whereas
this
this
metal
plate
here
I'm,
not
not
sure,
I,
see
those
metal
bolt
holes
that
are
needed,
whereas
the
next
piece
here
so
there's
the
CNC
torch
one
inch
carriage
metal
plate.
That
appears
to
be
proper
in
a
sense,
but
it's
not
complete,
though.
A
A
We
have
two
axes
next
to
one
another
for
added
strength,
so
that
you
get
a
nice
symmetric
design.
So
in
this
case
this
Universal
axis
system
should
have
2
X,
actually,
so
so
without
without
me,
talking
so
much
further,
we
got
the
technical
design
of
some
of
these
parts
and
concept.
So,
let's
go
to
let's
see
and
we
also
drew
up
the
this
is
the
actual
geometry
of
a
torch
that
we
are
using.
It's
actually
one,
it's
actually
dimensionally
correct.
A
A
A
The
torch
is
hot,
so
it
would
have
to
have
a
little
insulator
piece,
so
you
know
that
the
heat
travels
up
the
torch,
so
you
would
have
to
have
a
little
insulator
piece,
such
as
fiberglass
or
something
right
around
the
torch.
So
this
plastic
piece
is
holding
it,
but
it's
held
far
at
the
top,
so
that
the
heat
heat
problem
is
the
least
in
our
case.
We,
in
order
from
for
the
torch
table,
not
to
melt
the
plastic
altogether,
I
guess
for
heavy.
A
B
A
Yeah
I
mean,
if
you
I
mean
we're
talking.
If
you
talk
about
industrial
use,
when
this
were
this
thing
on
is
for
multiple
hour
or
like
even
24/7
production
time.
Yes,
of
course,
things
are
gonna
get
hot.
That
I
mean
if
we
had
that
without
a
water
table
yeah
it
would
just
everything
would
melt
after
you
know
like
10
hours
of
using
it
or
something
and
depending
on
what.
A
Yeah,
you
definitely
you'd
want
to
be
steel,
and
maybe
that's
what
we
end
up
doing.
However,
the
the
way
we
did
and
and
there's
different
ways
to
do
it,
because
one
thing
possibly
to
be
done,
so
you
prevent
the
the
thermal
creep
on
all
the
parts.
I
mean.
One
thing
we
consider
is:
you
can
actually
suspend
these
x-axis
off
the
ceiling.
I
mean
that's,
that's
one
way
to
go
if
yeah,
let's,
let's
not
get
there
yeah
that's.
A
The
thing
is
we'll
have
to
we'll
have
to
see
exactly
what
the
limits
are
and
if
we
find
that
the
limits
I
mean
our
our
goal
is
meeting
or
exceeding
industry
standards,
so
I
would
say
literally
like
it
should
not
overheat
if
you
run
it
24/7.
So
that
would
be,
of
course,
the
design
goal
if
you
talk
about
meeting
or
exceeding
industry
standards.
So
this
picture
that
I'm,
showing
here
on
my
screen,
is
a
natural
torch
holder.
A
It's
just
another
simple
thing:
it's
so
instead
of,
for
example,
it
like
in
this
picture
of
the
of
the
torch
table,
you
have
the
router
head.
Well,
in
this
case,
you
have
the
torch
instead
using
a
similar
mounting
system,
which
is
sandwiched
between
two
axes
and
between
them
there
for
the
these
double
this
double
rod
set.
Can
you
see
my
screen?
Our
you
still
can't
see
it.
A
Okay,
the
double
the
set
of
the
the
double
axis
set
is
spaced,
exactly
at
a
position
which
holds
where
the
torch
holder
is
right
in
between
them.
So
there's
definite
geometry
considerations
there
and,
as
I
mentioned
the
the
idler
piece
on
the
axis
that
holds
the
double
axis.
Well,
that
that
idler
piece
has
either
to
be
got
to
be
double
or
elongated,
so
it
can
hold
two
of
the
axes,
not
just
one.
If
we
keep
it
modular,
then
it
will
be
nice
to
actually
use
just
simply
two
of
those
pieces.
A
So
you
don't
have
to
worry
about
the
spacing,
and
it's
probably
a
good
idea.
I
would
suggest
that
for
this
idler
piece
on
axis
that
holds
the
double
axis.
We
have
two
idler
pieces
so
that
the
spacing
between
the
axis
can
be
adjusted
precisely
so
that
we
don't
have
any
issues
fitting
in
the
tool
head,
because
the
spacing
for
that
tool,
head
has
to
will
have
to
be
very
specific,
so
leaving
a
degree
of
freedom
to
adjust,
for
that
would
be
good
by
doing
that
on
the
axes
that
holds
the
double
axes
so
moving
on.
A
Version
three
working
doc:
there
is
already
a
torch
table:
v,
17.8
version
three
working
doc.
So
let's
go
into
that
and
continue
in
there
just
to
continue
on
a
geometry
and
what
what's
to
be
done
next
now
another
detail
so-
and
this
is
this-
is
where
it
gets
hairy
and
and
because
we
want
to
use
so
just
the
rationale
just
to
clarify
why
we
want
to
use
the
the
rods
and
that's
once
again
with
the
intent
that
we're
building
a
building
upon
the
universal
access
system.
A
So
the
design
is
simple
and
manageable,
and
understandable
and
more
parts
are
interchangeable
between
small
system
with
eight
millimeter
rods.
The
larger
system
now
here
with
the
25
millimeter,
the
1-inch
rods
and
even
larger,
so
so
belts
work
the
modifications
that
are
needed
to
go
to
the
one
inch
we
also
like
to
use-
and
we
were
just
simply
using
the
plain
six
millimeter
belt,
the
tiny
little
belt.
But
it
was
fine
to
move
the
axis
actually
and
that.
But
then
it's
at
a
certain
point.
A
It
started
skipping,
but
that's
because
we
didn't
have
the
I
mean
we.
We
had
just
a
lot
of
loose
ends
like
not
things
not
being
tight
or
not
fitting
properly,
because
we
were
just
doing
it
for
the
first
time,
but
what
I
would
suggest
for
for
the
next
modification
would
be
one
on
the
accesses
use
a
double
belt
because
of
the
six
millimeter
I
mean
that's
really
tiny
for
for
drive,
I.
Think
they're
working
like
the
acceptable
limit
they're.
A
The
amount
of
force
we
have
on
the
motors
is
I,
think
about
20,
25
pounds
or
so
a
force
that
we
can
pull
with
using
the
little
belt,
but
doubling
the
belt
up
so
basically
using
a
double
double
double
pulley
would
be
a
good
idea.
Okay,
so
let's
go
yes,
let's
go
more
into
these
documents.
Any
questions
right
now
are.
B
B
A
A
A
Is
that
acceptable
I
mean
right
now
we
don't
see
any
reasons
why
it's
not
so,
given
that
it's
actually
much
simpler
in
design,
it's
actually
much
simpler
to
build,
but
then
the
previous
ones,
the
previous
ones,
are
just
custom,
custom,
steel
pieces
and
all
that
just
just
all
steel
I
mean
not
not
bad,
but
our
goal
is
minimum
part
count
for
the
overall
set
and
the
ability
to
bootstrap
it
liked
it
like.
If
you
could
3d
print
the
parts
it
makes
it
actually
much
lower
cost,
so
yeah
I
mean
definitely
cost
and
much
higher
simplicity.
B
A
A
Probably
the
number
of
people
around
the
world
have
built
a
3d
printer
I
know
the
Prusa
i3
is
the
most
common
one.
There
they're
about
a
hundred
thousand
that
have
been
sold
and
I.
Don't
know
how
many
have
been
built,
but
we
know
that
many
many
people
can
work
with
this
kind
of
system
there,
which
is
similar
to
what
we're
doing
here
so
hopefully
much
much
more
accessible.
A
Now,
there's
only
one
detail
that
I
mentioned
is
was,
if
you
do
a
very
large
machine,
like
the
one
inch
rod
version,
that's
four
meters,
long
too
heavy
too
heavy,
so
because
the
rods
are
just
so
heavy,
and
so
what
we
did
was
we
used
three
quarter
inch
pipe,
which
is
1.05
outer
diameter.
Now,
how
are
you
gonna?
Do
the
bushings
there
then,
because
that
size
of
bushing
is
not
standard
and
you
can't
get
it
off
the
shelf.
A
So
you
can
either
3d
print,
which
gets
you
friction
more
friction
and
we
could
probably
make
it
work
with
3d
prints,
especially
they
have
the
they.
Have
the
this
big
lead
or
bearings
this
this
bearing
material,
that's
3d,
printable!
That's
really
good
for
really
good
for
abrasion
proof,
low,
friction
certain
surfaces,
but
here
what
we
did-
and
this
isn't
somewhat
of
a
hack
is
we
took
the
metal
bushing,
we
put
an
advice
and
just
crushed
it
and
it
breaks
well.
A
Actually
we
broke,
we
cut
it
in
half
and
then
we
crushed
an
advice
into
quarters,
so
it
actually
breaks
very
easily
and
it
can
get
nice
quarter
sections
very
easily
and
that
quarter
section
you
can
put
inside
that
that
idler
Hall,
but
the
rest
of
the
idler
Hall
has
to
be
filled.
So
we
have
to
modify
that
piece.
So
that's
the
thing
that
we
have
to
do
right
now
to
one
of
the
carriages.
That's
pretty
much.
A
As
far
as
we
got,
we
got
to
those
pieces
where
we
were
using
the
quarter,
end
quarter,
piece
sections
and
the
results
were
very
positive,
but
we
never
got
the
actual
CAD
of
that.
What
we
did
was
we
actually
3d
printed
three-quarter
inserts
to
fill
in
the
rest
of
that
that
whole
space,
which
it
was
kind
of
wonky.
You
know
it
wasn't,
wasn't
done
properly,
so
we
never
finished
that
off.
But
that's
this
is
where
we
are.
We
have
to
finish
those
little
details
such
that
using
very
common
three
quarter,
inch,
metal,
pipe
and
I.
A
B
A
Well,
so,
using
that
very
common
piece,
it's
quite
lightweight
and
and
over
four
meters-
it's
still
very
stiff,
so
we
used
it
and
it
was
very
positive
and
but
what
we
did.
We
just
took
a
grinder
with
with
like
a
buffing
wheel
and
we
smoothed
it
out.
So
it
was
really
nice
and
smooth,
and
that
worked
I
think
that
was
an
excellent
solution.
It
takes
a
little
bit
time
just
to
buff
it.
A
You
know
just
to
get
it
nice
and
smooth,
but
I
think
that's
just
a
perfect
solution,
because
the
three
quarter
inch
pipe
is
just
about
exactly
the
one
inch
slightly
bigger,
but
that's
where
the
the
broken
the
quarter
piece
of
the
bushing
fits
perfectly
glides
perfectly.
On
top
of
that,
so
that's
what
we
did.
We
just
used
a
quarter
section
on
top
of
the
the
pipes.
A
B
B
A
B
A
But
this
two
motors,
what
we're
doing
is
we're
splitting
the
signal
out
of
the
controller
into
the
two
motors
so
to
within
point
zero
one
of
an
inch
that
the
motion
is
I.
Sorry
Oh
point
zero
one
millimeter,
that's
the
step
size,
it's
identical
because
we're
splitting
the
signal
from
the
controller
into
the
two
motors.
No,
there
wasn't!
No
it.
We
didn't
see
any
issues
with
that.
That's
that
works
perfectly
fine.
A
I
mean
the
other
other
technical
detail.
Why
doing
the
single
axis
is
not
desirable
is
because
of
symmetry
note
that,
unlike
in
this
picture
here,
where
you
can
have
the
little
router
underneath
the
torch
head
is
just
too
long
to
suspend
it
underneath
you
have
to
suspend
it
from
one
or
the
other
side.
Now,
that's
not
really
stable.
If
that
torch
handle
is
about,
you
know,
it's
it's
about
18
inches
or
12
12
or
more
inches
hanging
down,
so
you'd
have
to
really
do
a
better
job
on
the
connection
to
the
to
the
long
axis.
A
In
other
words,
the
two
sided
support
is
just
very
much
stable
and
a
torch
is
in
between
that
between
the
two
between
the
two
sections.
That
sounds
like
well,
of
course,
you
you
know
you
might
want
to
do
the
simpler
attachment
just
on
one
side,
but
because
that
is
so
long,
I
mean
it's
just
less
stability,
it's
not
as
good,
especially
if
there's
any
play
within
within
the
axes
and
the
bearings
so
not
really
recommending
you.
You
do
want
to
go
for
symmetry
whenever,
whenever
possible,
there
is
a
there's,
a
this
cantilevered
action.
A
Unless
you
make
that
really
stiff
precision,
steel
I
mean
that's
gonna
wobble
on
you
and
we've
seen
that
lick
with
it.
Both
with
a
circuit
mill,
I
mean
there's
a
little
bit
of
wobble,
like
even
even
with
a
little
circuit
mill
that
we
did
and
we
we
suspended
it
in
between
the
two
axes
and
it
was
very
stable,
whereas
you
could
see
that
if
you're
holding
it
up
one
axis,
it's
just
not
cutting
it,
not
doing
well
enough.
So
the
other
part,
so
you
mentioned
about
the
single
motor.
A
The
other
part
that
we
want
to
consider-
and
it's
just
like
an
experimental
point-
is
where
the
smaller
motor
is
sufficient
and
is
it
a
problem
to
double
them
up?
Well,
if
we
are
using
all
these
small
stepper
motors
and
say
we
have
them
in
the
set
already,
it's
actually
convenient
to
use
them
and,
of
course
it's
twice
the
work
to
attach
them
and
wire
them
up,
but
it
does
work
and
it
it's
about
the
same
price.
Actually
as
doing
any
other
way,
I
mean
it
is
it's
not
bad.
I
mean
we
did
it.
A
It's
not
it's
not
much
harder
than
using
one
motor.
All
you
got
to
do
is
run
a
set
second
wire
to
it
to
the
other.
One
and
idea
is
that
you
just
plug
in
the
wires.
It's
pretty
it's
pretty
quick,
relatively
quick,
so
not
a
problem
that
we've
seen,
but
actually
in
slide.
Four
here's
what
you
basically
see
a
slide.
Four
is
the
overview.
A
A
A
A
A
A
B
B
A
A
A
Do
can
we
get
one
like
this?
That's
got
a
little
bit,
yeah
I
mean
and
that's
the
question
like.
Will
we
have
one
that
fits
exactly?
This
is
exactly
what
we
try
to
do
with
the
existing
bearing,
but
it
would
not
work.
It
does
not
split,
it's
not
flexible
because
it's
so
thick,
so
it
didn't
work
for
us.
We
tried
this,
but
if
they
have
one,
that's
that
we
can
find
that's
the
right
inner
diameter,
but
that's
a
you
know:
I,
don't
know
how
easy
that's
gonna
be
if
it's
easy
to
find
it.
A
Yes,
but
what
we
were
doing
is
and
it
and
if
that's
the
case,
then
they
probably
are
expensive,
but
those
bushings
that
we
have
they're
only
like
three
dollars
each
or
like
a
couple
of
dollars
each
for
the
brass
bushings
and
if
you
use
a
quarter
that
means
you're
paying
fifty
cents
for
one
of
them.
So
so
it's
really
really
cheap.
A
If
you
can
make
the
price
and
availability
work
out,
but
maybe
I
mean,
if
you
can
see
an
easy
answer,
but
I
mean
I,
don't
see
this
as
particularly
easy
unless
we
can
cast
these
or
make
these
ourselves,
which
we
will
later
but
it's
worth
looking
into,
but
but
we
don't
have
to.
If
we
make
the
quarter
bushing
work
the
heat
from
what
you
shown.
You
definitely
have
to
have
a
thicker
thicker
wall
and
then
the
question
is:
can
you
find
something
with
a
thicker
wall?
A
That's
1.05,
because
if
it
has
a
thicker
wall,
it
will
not
be
as
flexible
like
I
could
see
this
one
stretching
around
and
actually
fitting
properly.
But
it's
it's
a
detail.
It's
an
important
detail
so
for
now
maybe
just
go
with
with
this
very
easy
solution
which
we
know
we
can
do
like
right
now.
So
try
it,
and
here
the
the
quarter,
bushing
quarter
section
of
one
bushing
fits
in
the
plastic
and.
A
In
addition
to
the
very
tight
precision
we
have
from
the
stepper
motors,
so
it's
it's
pretty
pretty
decent
I,
don't
know
if
we
can
beat
this
I
mean
it's
the
this
is
enabled
simply
by
3d
printing.
If
we
didn't
have
the
ability
to
3d
print,
this
would
be
literally
impossible
because
then
you'd
have
to
machine
out
these
quarter.
Sections
and
stuff
like
that
out
of
whatever
you're
doing
but
3d
printing
just
makes
it
ridiculously
easy
to
execute
this.
That's
why
it's
worth
doing
and
at
a
very,
very
low
cost.
A
A
We
one
of
the
things
we
did
wrong
here
was
we
used
1/8
inch
that
just
does
not
hold
all
the
weight,
so
that
wants
to
be
a
quarter
quarter
inch.
Steel,
that's
perfectly
fine,
but
all
these
details
matter.
This
is
what
we
learned
so
far,
so
quarter
inch
steel
and
then,
let's
do
one
more
detail.
I
want
to
use
two
belts
which
are
six
millimeters,
so
you
you
can
scale
this
to
more
power
like
the
single
belt
was
fine
for
the
there
was.
It
can
possibly
work,
but
let's
do
double
to
to
overdo
it.
A
Rep
rep,
so
that's
the
double
pulley.
It
still
fits
on
a
single
motor
shaft,
but
it
allows
us
to
double
the
belt
strength
and
ideas.
Actually,
if
you
look
at
the
price
of
the
belt,
oh
yeah
there's
a
reason
for
doing
the
the
two
belts
as
Singh
ones,
because
when
you
go
to
nine
millimeter
belt
or
a
12
millimeter,
the
price
is
much
more.
It's
like
twice
as
much
as
if
you
use
two
quarter-inch
belts,
so
it's
also
lower
cost
to
do
it
this
way
and
it
works.
A
A
The
breaking
strength
per
inch
of
the
belts
is
800
pounds,
400
kilos.
If
we
have
a
half
an
inch,
the
breaking
strength
is
400
pounds.
I
mean
that's
plenty
of
strength,
so
those
belts
are
plenty
strong
and
what
you
want
to
run
them,
probably
like
ten
percent
of
their
breaking
strength.
So
if
the,
if
half
an
inch
is
four
hundred
pounds,
ten
percent
of
breaking
strength
is
about
40
pounds.
So
that's
the
safe
area
of
operation
and
that's
it's
just
perfect
I
mean
the
numbers
work
out
for
the
belt
being
acceptable.
This
standard,
gt2
belt.
B
B
A
B
A
So
you
need
a
long
bolt
that
goes
all
the
way
around
the
metal.
So
it's
the
thickness
of
the
of
the
carriage
plus
enough
to
go
inside
to
the
nut
catcher.
So
that's
where
the
lengths
of
those
nuts
and
bolts
well,
not
the
nuts,
the
bolts,
the
bolt
length
there
has
to
be
very
specific
so
that
it
just
catches
them.
So
we
have
to
specify
the
bolt
sizes
there
very
explicitly.
So
so,
let's
maybe
start
a
duplicate,
the
slides,
so
the
very
specific
details
that
we
need
to
draw
out.
A
A
A
A
A
B
B
B
A
B
A
A
Okay,
let's
take
a
look
at
this
one,
just
just
to
make
sure
we're
on
the
same
page,
because
I
don't
think
we're
on
the
same
page
right
now,
so
take
a
look
at
this
link.
I
put
in
a
link
to
the
the
motor
piece,
so
the
motor
piece
naturally
has
a
hole
for
the
motor
okay,
yeah,
I'm
gonna.
Actually,
I'm
gonna
clarify
that
because
we
need
to
model
II.
What
we
need
to
do
is
modify
this
for
the
double
belt
you
see.
B
B
A
A
A
A
Count
it
up,
but
some
of
the
details
in
there
includes
so
there's
the
quarter
bushing
piece
it
has
to
have
the
belt
that
fits
the
double
pulley.
So,
basically
all
the
features
we
discussed
in
there
they're
all
in
there.
It's
a
checklist,
the
things
that
you
have
to
change.
Definitely
as
the
is
the
spacing
for
that
double
bushing,
so
that
you're,
a
1.05
diameter,
three
quarter
pipe
fits
inside.
You
got
to
modify,
make
sure
the
spacing
is
enough
for
the
double
pulley.
So
you
have
to
take
a
look
at
the
double
pulley
cat.
A
A
A
A
A
Cat
out
the
pipe
section
cut
up
with
a
three-quarter
inch
pipe
I
mean
just
do
like,
let's
do
like
to
make
it
manageable,
perfectly
manageable
cuz,
because
the
one
of
the
troubles
with
using
like
a
very
big
structure,
like
the
the
you
know,
like
the
two
meter
by
four
meter
structure,
that's
really
large.
It's
hard
to
work
with
it
in
cat.
So
for
now
just
do
like
you
know:
seventy
five
centimeters
sections,
which
represents
the
whole
big
one,
so
it's
all
very
nice
to
see
and
manageable.
A
So
when
you
draw
in
the
three
quarter,
pipe
just
do
70
centimeter
long,
just
just
so,
we
can
see
it
very
nicely
and
then
once
you
have
this
then
note
that
these
pieces
are
split
they're.
Not.
This
is
not
one
piece.
What
we're
showing
here,
it's
split,
in
other
words,
I,
should
draw
in
this
line
here
down
the
middle.
It's
two
identical
halves
is
what
you're
drawing
out.
A
A
A
A
A
B
A
So
your
yes,
and
as
you
got
it,
let's
talk
about,
let's
do
it
and
then
that's
what
I
wanted
to
ask.
If
you
can
prototype,
but
I
mean
carriage
piece
carriage
is
the
main
thing
through
which
the
thing
is
attached.
It's
that
modified
carriage
piece.
This
was
the
wrong
wrong
name.
I,
put
a
link
to
that
yeah.
So
do
one
a
you
know,
start
you
know,
widen
the
belt
hole,
but
you
got
to
figure
out
what
the
you'd
need.
A
Double
pulley
I
think
you
got
to
start
actually
to
know
what
exact
the
widths
are.
You
got
to
get
a
cat
of
that
just
draw
it
up.
I
think
you
can
do
that
just
off
the
dimensions.
You
know
that
the
belt
width
there
on
that
pulley
is
six
millimeters
for
the
toothed
section
and
you
can
pretty
much
draw
that
up
or
see
if
we
can
find
those
dimensions
somewhere,
but
off
the.
A
Double
pulley
link
is
on
the
last
page.
Let
me
put
that
in
there
again
I
think
you
can
approximate
pretty
much
approximate
proximate.
It's
simple
file
for
that.
You
don't
have
to
draw
in
the
pulley
detail
the
teeth.
Detail
I
mean
that's
alright,
but
you
can
also
use
the
the
single
pulley
that
we
do
have
and
you
can
make
a
detailed
file
that,
but
you
don't
need
to
worry
about
the
detailed
files.
Long
as
all
the
dimensions
are
correct,
you'll
be
okay
yeah,
so
one
A
and
B
go
start
going
through
it
yeah.