►
From YouTube: Minimalist Arduino Build - with Mitch Altman - Part 2
Description
Mitch Altman (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitch_Altman) presents on building a microcontroller from scrach - for total newbies. Presented at the September 2020 Open Source microfactory Build Camp. https://www.opensourceecology.org/steam-camp-sept-2020/. See Introduction to OSE work at
https://youtu.be/n4gqDdWREn8
and Part 1 of Mitch's presentation at
https://youtu.be/WD1-ho8Rr_4
-----------------
What you see here at Open Source Ecology is an ambitious open source project for the common good. Join our development team:
http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/OSE_Developers
We run One Day Extreme Build workshops in many locations. Please put yourself on our map if you'd like us to host a workshop near you:
https://microfactory.opensourceecology.org/request-a-workshop/
Take a minute to subscribe to our email newsletter (updates, workshops, etc): http://bit.ly/1LtcM44
A
A
Do
what
you're
interested
in,
but
if
you're
interested
in
this-
and
you
can
do
cool
things
and
you
think
it's
cool
and
you
want
more
through
repetition,
you'll
learn.
You
can
do
more
and
more
complicated
things
and
even
more
cool
stuff.
But
again
with
what
I
showed
you,
you
can
do
a
lot
of
stuff.
So,
but
that
was
just
microcontrollers
next.
I
want
to
show
you
how
to
do
arduino,
but.
B
A
A
You
also
don't
need
to
have
an
led
connected
to
pin
13
and
all
arduinos
come
with
a
visible,
led
connected
to
pin
13,
which
is
why
I
chose
pin
13
in
my
example
earlier,
but
you
don't
need
that
it's
just
nice
to
have,
because
then
you
know
it
works
and
a
power
led.
So
here's
my
minimalist
oops,
here's,
my
minimalist
arduino
and
you
can
see
the
green
led
here-
is
just
power.
A
A
A
The
power
led,
isn't
required,
but
makes
it
nice.
This
is
kind
of
nice
because
then
you
can
just
put
a
blink
program
in
and
see
if
it
works.
Yeah
and
the
ceramic
resonator
right
here
isn't
required,
but
it
makes
it
a
little
more
complicated
in
your
development
environment
to
use.
If
you
have
it,
then
you
can
use
any
arduino.
A
A
B
A
A
Cool,
so
this
is
the
part
in
the
workshop
normally
where
I
show
people
how
to
solder.
Soldering
actually
is
easy,
but
I'm
not
gonna
go
over
that
now.
Normally
we
make
this
board,
which
is
a
kit,
but
I'm
not
gonna.
Do
that
we'll
I'll
just
show
you
with
an
arduino
and
once
you
make
the
board,
you
connect
a
power
supply,
and
then
it
does
this
cool
little
blinky
pattern,
which
is
kind
of
fun.
A
A
This
is
that
external
cable,
with
the
usb
controller
chip.
A
lot
of
these,
like
that
red
board
is
available
from
china,
for
if
you
buy
one
it's
available
from
china
for
like
three
three
dollars,
but
it
has
the
wrong
pin
out
for
arduino
projects,
so
me
and
my
friend
tully
make
that
green
board
and
attach
it
to
it,
and
then
we
sell.
A
I
sell
these
these
boards
again,
I
don't
make
any
money
from
it,
but
just
to
make
it
available
for
like
six
dollars
and
but
other
people
sell
them
as
well
and
whatever
hacker
spaces
I'll
have
these.
You
can
use
them
for
free.
If
you
have
this
or
even
if
the
arduin,
the
arduino
has
the
usb
controller
chip
built
in
you
have
to
make
sure
there's
a
driver
on
your
laptop
or
tablet
to
con.
A
So
it
understands
that
usb
controller
chip
and
all
of
them
come
with
drivers
for
windows,
mac
os
or
linux,
and
you
install
the
driver
and
then
your
computer
sees
a
serial
port
and
a
serial
port
is
what
all
computers
used
to
have
have
inputs
and
outputs
to
all
sorts
of
external
of
things
like
webcams
and
whatever.
Now
we
have
usb,
which
is
called
universal.
A
Serial
bus
form
of
serial,
but
these
usb
serial
converter
chips,
make
it
look
like
the
old
kind
of
serial
port,
which
is
still
really
useful
and
those
drivers
you
can
download
for
free
and
many
of
those
are
open
source.
Many
of
them
aren't
so
so.
Anyways
here
is
the
shortened
url
to
get
to
my
arduino
for
total
newbies.
A
A
And
then,
once
you're
at
the
projects
tab
you
just
scroll
down.
This
is
my
website
needs
some
work,
but
it's
a
long,
long
long
website
with
all
my
open
source
projects,
all
of
my
projects,
and
then
you
see
this
picture
of
the
first
time.
I
gave
this
workshop,
which
is
50
people
at
noisebridge,
hackerspace
in
san
francisco,
learning
how
to
solder
and
making
those
arduino
kit
boards
and
then
that
last
link
arduino
for
total
newbies
workshop
page
click
on
that.
A
A
A
A
D
A
So
if
you
have
one
of
these,
you
have
to
hook
it
up
correctly
and
they're
labeled.
I
won't
go
over
that
since
we're
not
using
that
today,
but
here
when
you
download
the
arduino
software,
you
just
double
click
on
it
and
it
installs
and
it
just
works,
and
then
you
have
to
do
two
things
to
set
it
up
the
first
time
you
use
it
and
I'll
show
you
how
to
do
that
now,
both
of
them
are
in
the
tools,
menu.
A
We're
using
for
people
who
bought
bought
the
parts
and
again
like
we
didn't
charge
any
extra
for
the
parts.
This
is
we
just
charge
what
they
cost.
So,
if
you
got
them,
that's
just
what
it
costs
and
you
have
to
tell
it
that
it's
an
arduino
uno
and
that's
the
all
of
those
choices
there,
but
only
the
arduino
uno
is
the
one
we
want
for
today,
because
it's
an
arduino
uno,
clone,
okay
and
then
the
soccer
knows
which
board
you
have.
Then
you
tell
it
which
serial
port?
A
A
If
you
have
mac
os,
though
there
will
be
lots
of
choices,
but
only
one
of
them
depending
on
your
which
version
of
mac
os,
you
have
only
one
of
them
will
say
usb
or
tty,
the
others
will
say
like
bluetooth
and
other
choices.
In
order
for
this
to
the
correct
choice
to
appear
whichever
your
operating
system,
you
have
to
have
the
driver
already
installed
and
the
arduino
has
to
be
connected
to
your
usb.
A
Okay,
so
first
you
download
and
install
the
arduino
software.
Then
you
plug
you
install
the
driver
for
your
usb
chip
and
if
you
have
a
regular
arduino
from
the
arduino
company
you
can,
along
with
the
arduino
software,
you
have
the
option
of
when
you
install
the
arduino
software.
It
asks
you
do
you
want
to
install
the
driver.
If
you
have
a
regular
arduino
board,
you
say
yes,
if
you
don't,
you
have
to
install
the
driver
separately,
but
linux
almost
always
has
the
driver
built
in
for
most
distros
of
linux.
A
It's
already
built
in
for
almost
all
of
the
usb
controller
chips.
So
you
don't
have
to
do
that,
but
for
windows
and
mac
os
you
do
okay
and
those
are
external
links.
And
then
you
do
these
two
steps
that
I
just
showed
you
in
the
tools
menu,
the
bowl
and
the
port,
and
then
it's
set.
You
don't
have
to
do
that
ever
again.
It's
set
up
and
unless
you
change
the
board
or
the
usb
controller
kit.
A
A
A
Without
a
cat,
okay,
so
let's
do
the
hello
world
program
first,
which
is
one
of
the
examples,
and
the
examples
have
lots
of
documentation
built
into
them
which
make
it
easier
to
do
so.
To
get
the
examples
you
go
to
the
files
menu
and
then
examples
and
then
at
the
top.
There
are
these
categories
categories
1
through
11
and
then
each
of
those
categories
have
example
sketches
and
again.
Sketch
just
means
a
program
in
arduino
language,
so
the
one
we
want
now
is
examples:
basics,
blink
blink
is
hello
world.
That's
that's!
This.
A
E
A
A
If
you
don't
have
comments,
even
if
you
wrote
the
program
a
week
later,
even
a
simple
program,
you
won't
remember
what
you
were
thinking,
because
you
have
a
life
and
you've
gone
through
all
these
different
cool
things
in
your
life
or
terrible
things
or
both
and
anything
in
between,
and
then
you
come
back
to
this.
You
won't
remember
what
you
were
thinking
so
comments
are
really
really
important.
A
A
A
E
A
A
A
Those
are
called
functions
in
c
plus
and
they
don't
give
them
a
name
in
our
language,
but
they
do
all
the
nitty
gritty
things
for
you,
so
you
don't
have
to
think
about
it.
So
here
is
the
one
line
in
the
setup
section:
most
software
geeks
would
call
set
up
the
setup
section.
They
would
call
it
init
or
initialize,
and
this
is
all
the
stuff
that's
done
once
at
the
beginning
of
your
program,
and
here
are
some
comments
that
tell
you
what
the
setup
does.
A
So
when
I
turn
the
switch
on
for
the
power
supply,
it
does
what's
in
setup
once
and
then
never
again.
It'll
also
do
it.
If
you
push
the
reset
button,
because
a
reset
button
is
the
exact
same
thing
as
turning
a
computer
off
and
on
again,
then
it
goes
down
to
loop
and
it
does
what's
in
loop
again
and
again
and
again
and
again
and
again
for
as
long
as
the
power's
on,
and
in
this
case
there
are
four
lines.
A
A
So
the
if
there's
a
comment
above
a
section
that
usually
tells
you
what
the
section
does.
If
there's
a
comment
to
the
above
a
line
or
to
the
right
of
a
line
that
usually
tells
you
what
the
line
does
so
in
this
case
it
tells
you
what
this
line
does
here.
The
this
is
dark
gray
text
is
the
comment:
it
tells
you
what
this
colored
text
underneath
it
does.
A
A
A
A
C
A
A
Well
there.
It
is
that's
how
easy
it
is
to
hack
on
these
programs.
You
don't
have
to
understand
c
plus
and
you
don't
have
to
understand,
pin
mode
parentheses
and
commas
and
semicolons
and
all
this
stuff.
You
just
have
to
read
the
comments
and
then
try
stuff.
If
you,
if
it
doesn't
work
as
expected,
it
can
be
a
little
frustrating,
but
there's
no
big
deal.
You
won't
break
anything
just
try
and
see
what
happens.
It's
actually
fun
to
play
around
with
it.
This
way.
A
So
again,
you
know,
I
don't
want
to
do
this,
so
I'll
control
z
to
undo
it,
but
this
is
the
way
you
do
that.
So
that
is
the
first
part
of
hello
world
we
need
an
output.
Pin
built
into
the
arduino
board
is
an
led
on
pin
13.
with
a
resistor
already
built
into
the
board.
So
no
magic
smoke
goes
away.
We
can
turn
once
it's
an
output
pin.
A
We
can
turn
that
led
on
and
off,
and
that's
what
happens
down
here
in
the
loop
section
and
again,
the
comment
up
here
tells
you
that
it
runs
over
and
over
again
and
what
happens
is
shown
in
the
comments
to
the
right
here.
The
first
line.
The
comment
shows
you
that
it
turns
the
led
on
the
next
line,
delays
it
waits
a
while,
so
that
it's
on
long
enough
for
us
with
human
eyes
to
be
able
to
see
it
wait
for
a
second,
it's
a
delay
and
then
the
next
line
you
can
see.
A
A
A
A
A
It's
connected
to
the
the
arduino
board
is
connected
to
my
laptop,
which
has
the
text
on
the
screen
over
there,
but
that
text
on
the
screen
needs
to
be
converted
into
a
form
the
arduino
board.
Microcontroller
understands
it
needs
to
be
sent
through
the
usb
controller
chip
and
all
that
to
the
memory
here.
Will
it
be
uploaded
and
then
executed,
and
then
it
will
do
what
this
program
told
it
to
do.
A
A
If
I
click
on
that,
then
you'll
see
down
below
in
in
the
black
rectangle
at
the
bottom,
it'll
show
you
some
stuff
and
there'll
be
a
green
progress
bar
in
the
lower
right,
so
see
the
green
progress
bar
and
then
down
in
the
blue
bar
with
the
green
progress
bar
at
the
right.
Look
to
the
left,
all
the
way
to
the
left
on
that
blue
bar.
A
A
A
Yeah,
so
let's
make
it
blink
10
times
faster,
so
I'll
make
instead
of
oh
by
the
way
these
the
delay
delay
here.
These
are
called
functions.
The
orange
letters
are
functions,
so
they
do
cool
stuff.
For
you
and
the
comments
tell
you
what
they
do.
You
know
you
can
see.
The
comment
for
this
line
here
says:
wait
a
second,
it's
it's,
but
the
code
itself
is
actually
delay
a
thousand.
It
delays
a
thousand
units
of
time.
A
The
units
are
miller.
A
miller
is
a
thousandth
of
a
second,
so
a
thousandth
of
a
second
one
or
one
over
a
thousand.
So
a
thousand
units
here,
a
thousand
units
or
a
thousand
milliseconds,
which
is
one
second
okay,
so
I'm
gonna
change
it
from
a
thousand
to
a
hundred
and
same
down
here
but
notice.
That's
just
text
on
a
screen.
A
A
So
I
just
clicked
on
it,
and
so
it
will
compile
and
wow
it's
interacting
with
this
video
conferencing
software
in
weird
ways.
My
computer's
going
very
slowly,
so
it
should
do
that
in
a
quarter
second,
but
let's
give
it
time
to
do
its
thing.
So
it's
now
compiling
and
it's
giving
you
the
information
at
the
bottom
and
it's
converting
the
text
into
a
form
the
microcontroller
understands
once
it
finishes
compiling.
A
Then
it
will
send
it
to
that
in
a
form.
The
microcontroller
understands,
it'll,
send
it
to
the
microcontroller's
memory,
where
it
will
then
run,
and
then
the
red
led
will
blink
in
its
new
way
rather
than
in
the
old
way
and
when
you're
using
this
on
your
computer,
maybe
it'll
do
it
more
like
in
a
quarter
second
rather
than
in
a
minute,
but
it
should
upload.
A
A
There
it
goes
now,
it's
uploading
and
finished
compiling,
and
now
it's
done
uploading
and
now
look
at
the
red
led
ten
times
a
second
instead
of
one
time
second,
and
we
don't
also,
we
don't
have
to
make
them
blink
on
and
off
at
the
same
rate,
let's
change
the
off
time
to
be
one
second,
so
I'll
add
a
zero
back
in
there.
So
now
here
is
a
thousand
instead
of
a
hundred,
but
up
here
is
a
hundred
okay,
but
that's
just
text
on
the
screen
in
order
to
make
it
happen.
A
A
A
A
Now
this
software
is
being
hacked
now
in
a
good
way
that
just
means
modifying
it
to
do
what
I
want,
rather
than
what
the
original
person
intended
it
for
the
original
person
intended
this
to
blink.
The
built-in
led
once
per
second,
but
I
changed
it
to
be
different
rates,
and
now
I'm
going
to
use
it
to
not
blink.
The
built-in
led
it'll
also
do
that
blinking
the
built-in
one,
but
I
wanted
to
do
this
one
an
external
led.
A
A
A
Thirteen
is
a
little
bit
in
a
shadow
there,
but
then
one
right
next
to
it
is
called
ground.
Gnd
that
stands
for
ground.
There's
two
other
ground
pins
down
below
gnd
is
kind
of
big
there
and
it
covers
two
of
the
holes.
So
those
are
both
ground
and
the
one
to
the
left
of
1013
is
ground.
If
I
take
this,
amber,
led
and
put
the
long
lead,
the
plus
lead
the
plus
lead
into
pin
13
hole
and
the
ground
lead
into
the
ground
hole
next
to
it,
then
it'll
light
up.
A
A
A
A
A
Robot
with
wheels
and
if
I
want
to
make
the
robot
move
forward,
I
turn
both
output
pins
on
to
make
both
motors
spin
at
the
same
rate
going
and
then
the
robot
will
go
forward.
If
I
turn
only
one
motor
on
the
robot
will
turn
right.
If
I
turn
on
the
other
motor
on
the
robot
will
turn
left.
If
I
turn
them
both
off
the
robot
stops,
and
so
a
simple
robot
controller
is
actually
a
hack
of
hello
world.
A
F
A
I
don't
even
hear
this
because
my
microphone
won't
really
respond,
but
right
now
this
speaker
every
time
the
controlling
firmware
thinks
that
it's
turning
the
led
on
the
speaker
clicks
when
it
thinks
it's
turning
the
led
off
it
clicks
again,
because
the
led
is
going.
Where
is
it?
I
know.
I
know
what
you
hear
on
the
speaker.
If
you
could
hear
it
is,
could
click
click?
Click.
Click,
click,
click,
click
quickly,
okay,
so
that's
not
very
interesting
because
the
click
rate
is
not
within
the
range
of
our
human
hearing.
A
A
Then
it's
on
for
10
milliseconds
after
10
milliseconds,
I'm
pretending
the
seconds
off
for
20
seconds.
That's
20,
milliseconds
total.
So
that
means
it
will
turn
on
and
off
50
times
per
second,
which
is
within
the
range
of
human
hearing.
You'll
be
able
to
hear
that
if
I
hold
it
up
to
the
microscope
of
the
the
the
megaphone.
A
And
if
you
are
a
guitar
player,
then
you
hear
and
you're
not
in
the
us.
Then
that's
the
noise.
You
hear
that
in
the
background
that
most
people
don't
want
to
hear
in
the
u.s,
you
hear
60
hertz,
which
is
even
slightly
more
annoying
because
that's
the
rate
of
the
wall
in
the
u.s
and
that's
the
noise
that
is
all
over
the
planet
now
and
pervading
our
bodies,
and
we
seem
to
be
able
to
handle
it.
But
we
didn't
evolve
for
it,
but
somehow
we
can
handle
it
and
somehow
we
can
handle
it.
A
A
Now
you
can
hear
if
I
hold
it
up
to
the
microphone,
you
can
hear
that
right,
yeah
yeah!
So
that's
an
annoying
noise,
but
I'm
going
to
make
it
do
an
10
times
higher,
which
is
500
times
a
second,
and
this
is
making
a
square
wave.
So
if
you
play
around
with
music
and
music
synthesizers,
a
square
wave
is
a
basic
waveform
which
isn't
particularly
pleasing
but
can
be
interesting
for
music,
electronic
music
there's
also
sine
waves,
which
are
really
really
smooth,
which
aren't
very
interesting
but
they're,
very
smooth.
A
And
then,
if
you
combine
sine
wave
and
triangle
wave
and
square
and
square
wave
and
pulse
waves
and
all
these
different
things,
then
you
can
get
super
interesting
sound.
I
mean
you
make
them
louder
and
softer.
So
this
is
kind
of
the
basis
of
music
synthesis
and
so
you'll
see
that
after
it
compiles,
which
is
taking
a
long
time,
this
will
be
10
times
higher.
A
A
And
then
I've
created
a
simple
music
synthesizer
just
by
hacking,
hello,
world,
pretty
cool
and
then
with
some
more
complicated
code.
I
can
make
very
interesting
sounds,
which
is
what
I
do
with
my
music
synthesizer
project
that
I
played
a
short
video
of
earlier
that
was
making
a
waveform
called
a
sawtooth
and
to
talk.
I
won't
talk
about
that
now
because
that
that
gets
pretty
complicated.
A
I've
given
talks
about
it.
So
if
you're
interested
just
search
for
my
name
and
argue
touch
it's
an
arduino
based
synthesizer
with
a
touch
keyboard,
you
just
touch
the
keyboard
on
the
board
and
it
knows
you're
pressing
it.
So
you
touch
and
you
you
can
learn
from
that.
If
you
want
to
so
anyways,
let's
go
now
back
to
my
presentation
and
we
can
learn
about
solderless
breadboards
and
a
solderless.
A
A
A
A
A
So,
let's
ignore
these
two
rows
at
the
top
in
these
two
rows
at
the
bottom.
For
now,
but
here
is,
for
instance,
column,
seven
and
then
here's
row
c.
So
this
is
hole
number
7c
if
you've
ever
played
the
the
old
game
battleship,
it's
kind
of
the
same
idea.
If
not
don't
worry
about
it,
this
is
column,
seven
row
c,
so
this
is
whole
7c.
That's
the
name
of
this
hole!
A
A
A
A
A
A
E
A
A
A
G
A
A
A
A
C
A
So
it
they,
they
have
these,
these
they're
kind
of
underneath
the
board.
It's
kind
of
like
this,
and
when
you
push
the
wire
in
there,
these
are
springs,
but
they
push
together.
This
way,
okay,
when
you
push
the
wire
in
there
it's
connected
and
there
the
holes
are
deep
enough,
so
that
the
lawn
and
the
short
wire
are
both
connected
in
there.
So
the
green
wire
is
now
connected
to
the
short
wire
minus
short
lead,
and
the
red
wire
here
is
now
equivalent
of
the
long
plus
lead
of
the
led
okay.
A
A
A
A
A
Okay,
so
that's
how
we
can
play
with
breadboards
and
now.
Let
me
show
you
this
is
on
the
screen.
Is
the
resistor,
the
led,
the
satellite
board,
a
red
and
a
black
wire,
and
it
shows
you
know
arrows
going
to
the
arduino
board
and
13
and
ground.
It's
really
a
pain
to
create
that
I
use
this
free
open
for
software
called
the,
which
is
a
really
really
powerful,
very
much
like
photoshop,
but
for
and
open
source,
and
I
take
and
I'm
good
at
it.
A
But
it
takes
me
about
20
minutes
to
create
this
schematics
are
way
way
way
better
for
communicating
a
circuit
than
a
drawing.
You
have
to
be
a
pretty
decent
graphic
artist
or
an
artist
to
do
this
and
make
it
understandable,
but
a
schematic
much
here's
the
schematic
for
that
circuit
for
this
project.
C
A
A
A
A
A
Okay,
so,
first
of
all
let
me
show
you
the
in
the
middle
of
the
arduino
symbol
in
the
middle.
It
says
gmd
at
the
bottom,
that
is
a
ground
pin
that's
the
same
as
one
of
the
ground
holes
and
it
doesn't
matter
which
of
the
ground
holes.
You
use
that's
one
of
them
and
then
there's
a
line,
meaning
a
wire
going
down
to
that
sort
of
weird
little
triangular
symbol
with
three
lines
so
that
symbol.
A
That's
the
symbol
for
power,
and
it's
usually
marked
with
the
voltage
in
this
case
we're
using
a
power,
a
power
pack
power
pack
with
for
three
double
a
batteries.
So
so
we
can
do
that
and
you
we
can
use
that
for
a
butterfly.
So
wherever
you
see
that
symbol
at
the
top,
the
little
circle
marked
with
4.5
v.
A
D13
d
stands
for
digital
13
because
there
are
those
pins
at
the
bottom,
which
I
briefly
mentioned,
which
are
analog
pins.
So
those
would
be
a0
to
a5.
But
digital
is
what
we
want
to
use
and
that's
the
d0
through
d13
some
projects
that'll
just
and
that
they're
not
going
to
use
it
analog,
but
I
put
d13
there.
So
that's
the
pin
with
the
built-in
led
and
there's
a
wire
going
to
the
right,
and
then
you
see
the
the
zigzag
that
symbol
with
a
zigzag.
A
B
A
C
A
A
A
An
led
is
a
kind
of
diode,
oh
yeah,
so
with
a
resistor,
these
zigzag.
Imagine
that
you're
an
electron
on
a
an
electron
bicycle,
a
little
electron,
bicycle
and
you're,
having
a
fun
time
and
you're
going
on
this
wire
here,
it's
totally
smooth
and
you're
going
from
left
to
right,
and
suddenly
this
smooth
pavement
for
my
electron
bicycle
suddenly
gets
bumpy
like
this.
It
slows
you
down.
G
A
Usually
show
you
how
a
part
works
or
the
way
the
part
looks
physically
in
this
case.
It's
how
it
works.
It
slows
down
electrons,
okay
and
then
this
is
an
led.
An
led
is
a
diode,
which
is
a
one-way
valve
for
electrons.
Electrons
can
only
go
one
way,
which
is
why
this
looks
kind
of
like
an
arrow
pointing
to
the
right.
A
It
goes
from
left
to
right,
left
to
right,
okay,
so
it's
pointing
to
the
right
and
the
way
it
it
points
to
ground,
and
you
can
see
the
the
minus
ground
side,
because
the
it
points
to
a
little
teeny
minus
sign
see
the
minus
sign.
It's
it's
it's
sideways,
but
the
cursor
is
going
up
and
down.
That's
the
minus
sign
on
the
right
side
built
into
the
electronic
symbol.
A
So
you
know
that
this
is
the
minus
side
of
the
led,
and
this
is
also
the
symbol
for
a
regular
diode.
But
you
can
see.
I
don't
know
if
you
can
tell
here,
but
this
is
a
really
teeny
little
two
liking
bolts
pointing
out
of
the
led.
So
that's
that's
what
makes
it
an
led?
It's
got
stuff
coming
out
of
it.
A
D
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
Okay,
we
got
two
of
those,
so
we
got
a
red
wire
to
power.
Our
arduino,
and
this
goes
to
the
5v
hole
on
my
board.
Some
of
them
they
say
vcc
and
then
the
ground
hole
has
the
my
battery
pack
black
wire
and
then
the
power,
the
board
being
powered,
and
then
I
also
have
this
resistor,
but
there's
a
little
bit
of
information
here
about
this
resistor.
A
A
A
A
B
C
A
A
A
A
A
The
other
side
of
the
47
ohm
resistor
goes
to
whole
pin
hole,
d3
the
pin
3
of
our
arduino
board,
then
c
lead
goes
to
one
side
of
a
10
ohm
resistor.
The
other
side
of
the
10
ohm
resistor
goes
to
one
side
of
our
infrared
ir
led
here's
there's
two
sides:
one
sides
plus
and
one's
minus.
You
remember
which
sides
minus
and
which
is
plus,
which
is
which
big
suds
plus
yeah.
A
So
the
arrow
points
down
in
this
way
in,
in
this
case,
to
the
minus
side
and
here's
a
minus
sign
built
into
the
electronic
symbol.
That's
the
minus
sign,
so
it's
the
bottom
in
this
case
is
minus.
The
10
ohm
resistor
goes
to
the
short
lead
of
the
infrared
led.
The
long
plus
lead
goes
directly
to
the
red
lead
of
the
power
supply
through
the
power
of
solderless
breadboard.
A
The
these
two
on
the
left
are
connected
to
each
other
inside
the
part,
so
either
one
the
top
and
bottom
on
the
left
can
be
the
left
of
the
electronic
symbol
here.
The
left
right
here,
the
right
side
of
the
electronic
symbol,
is
either
the
top
right
or
the
bottom
right,
they're
both
connected
to
each
other,
no
matter
if
you're,
pressing
the
button
or
not
okay.
A
That's
something
you'd
normally
have
to
memorize,
but
I
put
it
on
here
because
I
want
this
to
be
for
total
newbies.
So
you
don't
have
to
memorize
anything
yet-
and
I
showed
this
picture
here,
so
you
don't
have
to
search
for
a
data
sheet.
It's
already
there
to
show
you
which
is
c
b
and
e,
and
then
I
also
put
the
schematic,
which
usually
don't
have
in
a
schematic
for
a
project.
I
show
the
schematic
for
the
power
supply
battery
pack,
so
there's
a
red
wire
with
a
and
there's
black
wire
power
ground.
A
A
A
Oh,
I
did
want
to
show
one
other
thing
with
the
arduino
before
going
to
the
minimalist
arduino
here's
my
arduino
board,
it's
being
powered
through
the
power
supply
of
my
laptop
through
the
usb
port
and
that's
totally
fine
for
many
projects.
But
let's
say
I
actually
want
to
build
a
tv
on.
I
don't
want
to
bring
my
laptop
with
me
to
turn
tvs
off
so
when,
if
I
unplug
this
there's
no
more
power,
but
I
can
take
my
battery
pack.
A
D
A
A
A
E
E
A
E
A
A
Just
like
any
computer,
one
form
of
memory
is
called
ram
random
access
that
is
only
available
when
the
power
is
on.
So
anything
you
store
in
that
it's
temporary
memory,
it's
really
fast,
but
it's
temporary.
So
it's
kind
of
like
a
scratch
pad
if
calculations
on
paper,
it's
kind
of
like
the
scratch
paper.
A
Track
of
things
in
your
head,
helping
you
with
the
numbers
on
the
paper,
so
the
ram
can
store
all
sorts
of
information,
but
when
you
turn
the
power
off,
it
goes
away
forever
and
then
there's
program
memory.
That's
like
the
hard
drive
on
your
computer.
So
when
you
turn
the
power
off,
whatever
is
stored
in
the
hard
drive
remains.
A
You
can
reprogram
that
zillions
of
times
you
don't
have
to
worry
about
that.
Okay,
so
there's
a
small
part
of
program
memory
that
you
need
to
have
in
there
in
order
to
use
the
arduino
software
and
that's
called
the
bootloader,
the
bootloader
is
really
small
part
of
it
and
it's
a
program.
So
when
you
first
turn
on
the
power,
it
actually
doesn't
go
to
setup
in
your
sketch.
The
first
thing
it
does
is
goes
to
the
bootloader
and
the
bootloader
then
says:
hey.
A
A
Oh,
no,
so
I'm
just
going
to
go
to
setup,
do
what's
in
there
once
and
then
go
down
to
loop
and
do
that
over
and
over
again
earlier,
when
the
program
that
was
already
there,
okay,
so
the
chips.
If
you
bought
the
parts,
the
chips
we
walked,
we
ordered
parts
that
have
the
bootletter
bootloader
already
in
it.
F
D
A
A
A
A
A
A
E
A
G
D
A
Those
are
a
source
of
five
volts
and
a
source
of
forgotten
people
or
whatever
you
want
and
then
also
to
the
right
of
there
are
the
analog
input
voltage
pins
that
you
can
use
for
interesting
things
like
that's,
usually
for
sensors
in
many
projects,
or
you
can
also
use
that
for
controlling
other
things,
which
I
do
and
some
synthesizer
stuff,
but
I
don't
really
want
to
get
really
into
that
today.
That's
another
topic
which
is
interesting,
but
thanks
to
them
so
so
anyways
now
you
can
see
this
better.
A
A
A
A
A
A
Okay,
so
this
just
shows
the
pins
of
the
computer,
the
the
microcontroller
chip,
18
mega
328p,
it's
pin
19,
and
that
is
the
arduino
pin
13.,
there's
various
grounds
here:
they're,
really
all
the
same:
they're,
pins,
8
and
22.
Together
we
have
a
ceramic
resonator
with
three
leads
going
to
pin
9
and
10
with
the
middle
lead
going
to
ground.
A
The
built-in
led
is
optional,
but
it's
really
nice
to
have
so
you
can
program
it
with
blink,
just
to
be
sure,
everything's
working,
here's,
a
power
led
and
that's
nice
to
have
as
well.
You
know
it
just
goes
from
power
to
ground
with
a
resistor,
so
no
magic
smoke
goes
away.
In
this
case
I
have
a
green
one.
It
can
be
any
color.
A
A
A
This
can
just
be
on
a
napkin
at
a
cafe,
and
I
can
be
showing
this
to
someone
who
speaks
a
human
language
that
I
don't
even
know
so,
for
instance,
someone
who
speaks
only
shanghainese,
I
can
speak
some
mandarin
and
some
cantonese,
but
I
cannot
speak
shanghainese
so
if
they
don't
know
english
or
german
or
any
of
the
other
languages,
I
know
or
mandarin.
I
can
still
draw
this
on
a
napkin
and
they
will
understand
it
if
they
know
how
to
read
a
schematic
and
it
doesn't
have
to
be
pretty
so.
A
A
A
It's
got,
three
leads
the
middle
one
is
ground
and
then
the
other
two
it
doesn't
matter.
They
go
to
pin
nine
and
ten
which
the
chip
calls
extol.
One
xl2,
which
is
short
for
crystal
one
and
crystal
two
and
a
ceramic
resonator,
is
the
equivalent
of
a
crystal.
So
you
just
hook.
These
three
leads
up
making
sure
that
the
outside
leads
go
to
nine
and
ten
and
the
middle
lead
goes
to
brown.
A
These
are
the
plus
sides,
see
the
minus
sign
on
the
left
of
each
part,
so
the
minus
side
goes
to
a
resistor
in
each
of
these.
In
this
case
to
oh,
you
know
what
this
schematic's
wrong.
I'm
totally
sorry,
this
led
it's
not
supposed
to
go
here,
it's
supposed
to
go
to
ground
not
to
plus,
because
this
is
going
from
plus
plus,
so
I
I
drew
this
incorrectly.
A
A
A
A
A
A
G
D
A
A
A
A
E
A
A
A
F
A
But
the
batteries
will
just
last
a
little
longer
and
if
you
have
other
stuff
going
on
in
your
circuit
that
are
drawing
like
lots
and
lots
and
lots
of
leds
blinking,
it's
kind
of
nice
to
have
those
capacitors
so
that
the
microcontroller
doesn't
get
noise
with
lots
of
leds.
Turning
on
and
off
that
can
put
noise
in
my
power
supply
wires
here,
which
can
then
put
noise
in
my
chip,
which
can
then
make
things
mess
up
occasionally.
A
A
A
A
A
These
are
actually
analog,
there's
very,
very
low,
current
and
very
very
low
voltages,
and
if
they're
too
far
away,
then
the
60
hertz
or
50
hertz
from
your
ac
wall
wall
might
start
becoming
more
powerful
and
overpowering.
The
small
signal
from
your
ceramic
resonator
or
crystal
so
you
have
to
make
sure
those
wires
are
very
short
and
it
even
works
without
the
I'm
trying
to
get
that
back
in
without
the
ground
middle
lead
being
connected.
A
A
A
A
B
B
A
A
So
so
it's
nice
to
have
that.
Another
option
is
instead
of
a
ceramic
resonator.
You
can
have
a
crystal
and
then
you
need
with
a
crystal.
You
need
to
have
two
small
capacitors
of
a
particular
value
and
those
are
12
ferrets
going
from
pin
9
to
ground
and
pin
10
ground
pico
pharah
is
a
billionth
of
a
billion,
so
billionth
of
a
billion.
D
A
A
G
F
A
A
A
A
C
F
D
A
D
A
E
A
C
G
A
Okay,
so
this
is
100
microfarad
and
these
capacitors
also
have
a
voltage
rating.
If
you
use
a
capacitor
with
too
small
of
a
voltage
rating
they'll
burn
up,
but
we're
only
using
five
volts.
You
really
don't
have
to
worry
about
that.
So
we
definitely
need
a
capacitor.
That's
more
than
five
volts
these
there.
You
really
come
in
25
or
50
volts,
so
you
don't
have
to
think
about
it.
But
just
thought
I'd
point
that
out.
So
this
is
a
100
microfarad.
A
D
A
A
A
A
A
A
G
A
They're
really
really
cheap
parts,
so
adding
a
few
here
and
there
never
hurts
anything
and
it
can
help.
So
with
our
minimal
arduino
board,
you
don't
need
it.
It'll
work,
fine
without
it,
like
I
said
before,
but
it's
kind
of
good
to
get
in
the
habit
of
using
those.
You
just
need
one
hundred
microfarad
and
for
this
one
we
only
need
one.
You
don't
actually
need
it's
nice
to
have
one
point:
one
microfarad
and
in
more
complicated
projects
have
a
few
or
several
0.1
microfarads.
A
D
A
You
know
not
too
bad
and
if
you're
just
blinking
a
visible,
led.
That's
totally
fine
like
if
you're
doing
rgb
led
strips
that
works
totally
fine.
But
if
you're
doing
something
like
tv
be
gone,
where
you
need
a
really
bright
infrared
light
in
order
to
shine
a
tvs
to
turn
them
off,
they
need
pulses
of
an
amp,
so
0.02
amps
will
work.
It
just
won't,
go
very,
are,
and
so
that's
why
I
have
the
current
amplifier,
the
transistor
for
the
tvp
gun,
but
you
definitely
don't
need
it.
A
Just
for
blinking
colored
lights
that
look
cool.
You
will
need
something,
though,
if
you
want
to
have
a
motor
that
moves
any
something
with
any
amount
of
weight
at
all.
The
motors
need
more
current
to
have
torque,
which
is
the
amount
of
rotational
energy
for
moving
things,
and
so
for
that
you
need
a
motor
driver
as
well
and
that's
a
little
more
complicated
than
just
one
transistor,
but
there's
projects
online
that
you
can
just
download
and
copy
that
as
well.
A
So
again,
that's
a
little
more
complicated
to
explain
with
the
background
information
we
have
now,
but
not
not
all
that
much.
So
if
you
have
time
and
you're
interested
in
doing
things,
that
move
definitely
download
a
project
that
has
motors
and
try
copying
it
and
then
there's
other
sites
that
show
that
explain
how
that
works
and
I'm
happy
to
just
do
that
offline.
D
A
No,
but
there
is
a
way
to
do
it
using
one
of
these
or
okay
there's
a
lot
of
different
ones.
Like
I
said
this
just
has
a
you
can
sort
of
see
the
usb
controller
chip
underneath
there.
You
just
need
a
board
with
a
usb
controller
tip,
and
then
this
has
the
correct,
pin
out
it's
a
six
pin
thing:
there's
power,
ground,
custom,
pins
on
the
microcontroller
that
put
it
into
programming
mode,
and
then
you
download
the
driver
for
that
usb
controller
chip
and
then
tell
your
arduino
software.
A
H
A
Right
so,
unfortunately,
with
arduino,
there's
not
much
of
a
debugging
environment
with
with
more
professional
kind
of
microcontroller
development
boards,
which
is
all
that
was
available
well
in
the
old
days,
and
it
was
always
proprietary
software
that
ran
only
on
windows,
even
though
it
was
free
of
cost.
It
wasn't
free,
isn't
freedom,
but
you
know
there.
There
were
many
things
and
you
can
buy
software
like
that
for
18
mega
three
to
eight
chips,
but
not
with
the
arduino
environment
so
to
debug.
A
Rather
your
controlling
program,
you
can
tell
if
that
part
of
your
firmware
is
reached
under
certain
conditions.
Like
I
can
say
this,
you
know
I
wanna,
I
have
a
program,
let's
say:
synthesizer,
I've
got
12
buttons
and,
depending
on
what
button
is
pushed,
I
get
a
different
frequency,
but
when
I
actually
try
to
use
it,
it's
not
making
good
sounds
it's
like
not
going.
A
Instead,
it's
doing
so
I
can.
I
can
look
in
my
I
can.
I
can
add
an
extra
statement
in
my
firmware
to
flip
an
led
just
go
off
and
then,
whenever
I'm
in
a
particular
part
of
the
program-
and
that
can
give
me
clues
as
to
bugging
my
firmware
yeah
and
then
bugs
and
hardware
are
another
story.
So
it
takes
a
lot
of
practice
to
get
good
at
debugging,
with
both
programs
and
with
hardware
with
hardware.
A
A
This
is
a
a
digital
meter
and
it
can
measure
all
those
dead,
physicists,
bolts,
ohms
and
amps,
so
usually
with
power
supply,
you
can
just
measure
you
got
red,
red
and
red
and
black
here
you
can
measure
the
volts
and
see
if
it's
correct,
you
can
measure
it
from
your
battery
pack
directly
and
then
at
the
other
end
of
the
battery
pack,
you
can
measure
the
voltages
on
your
board.
You
can
measure
it
at
the
chip
and
all
the
places
where
you're
supposed
to
have
voltage.
A
You
can
see
if
the
right
power
supply
voltage
is
there
and
in
debugging
hardware,
that
the
first
time
you
put
it
together
chances
are
you
didn't,
do
everything
perfect
and
everything
has
to
be
perfect
chances?
Are
you
can
find
out
what's
wrong
by
just
measuring
the
voltage
everywhere,
there's
supposed
to
be
voltage
and
if
it's
there
cool?
If
it's
not
well
known,
then
you
found
your
problem.
A
Also.
It's
really
easy
on
these
boards,
since
there's
lots
of
rows
and
columns
of
holes
to
have
just
one
over
too
many
on
the
left
or
or
the
right
and
also
parts
of
these
leads.
That's
pretty
small,
and
so
it's
like
showing
up
yeah
they're,
pretty
small,
so
it's
easy
for
them
to
connect
when
you
don't
want
them
to
so
yeah
go
in
there
with
a
small,
filling
and.
A
Some
tips
and
tricks,
but
that's
really
what
debugging
is
it's
a
bunch
of
tips
and
tricks?
And
after
you
have
practice,
you
see
what
works
for
you
and
there's?
No
like
here's
what
you
do
step
one
step
two.
Unfortunately,
it
doesn't
work
that
way
and
if
you've
ever
tried
to
debug
a
program.
You
know
that
there's
some
sort
of
heuristic
rules
of
thumb
that
you
can
go
through
to
try
to
debug
things,
but
everyone
has
their
own
styles
and
what
works
for
them
better.
A
G
C
B
C
A
F
A
G
G
B
A
Yeah
so
first
schematics
come
in,
you
know,
plus
you
the
more
documentation
you
give
the
better.
So
you
you
give
a
schematic
for
how
the
board
is
laid
out,
and
you
know
you
can
take
pictures
and
whatever.
But
then
it's
hard
to
see
underneath
wires
so
doing
the
schematic,
and
you
can
do
it,
you
can
do
it
just
with
a
quick
sketch.
It
doesn't
have
to
be
super
pretty
and
then
take
a
picture
of
that
or
scan
it
a
sketch.
A
And
then
you
can
upload
that
if
you
want
to
be
pretty,
you
can
spend
more
time
at
it.
You
know
and
like,
but
I
made
a
mistake
in
my
sketch
and
I
caught
that
before
distributing
it
I'll
I'll
fix
that
before
giving
that
to
marcin,
and
he
can
give
that
to
everyone
else,
but
yeah,
that's
the
hardware
and
then
the
the
firmware
is
super
easy
you
just
copy
and
paste.
A
So
that
can
be
a
place
that
anyone
can
download
then
and
then
it's
nice
to
have
not
only
comments
in
your
sketch,
but
also
a
document
that
describes
any
aspects
of
the
any
aspects
of
project
which
might
not
be
obvious.
So
you
can
say
what
you
were
thinking
about,
why
you
did
it.
You
can
say
a
little
bit
about
yourself.
Even
you
can
make
a
picture
of
your
cat.
You
can.
A
Get
an
overview
of
any
kind
of
theory
which
might
be
helpful
for
people
who
want
to
use
your
project.
Understand
your
project
and
also
for
people
want
to
use
your
project
a
little
bit
differently,
so
they
can
modify
it
more
readily
more
easily
and
give
away
for
people
to
share
back
with
any
improvements
or
changes,
and
so
I
I
use
github.
I've
been
using
that
way
before
microsoft
opened
it
now.
A
B
Yeah
and
as
far
as
digital
design
for
some
of
this,
this
electronics,
we
do
have
a
couple
of
videos
actually
which
we
haven't
released
yet
on
the
minimalist
arduino
and
how
you
actually
go
through
designing
that
in
key
cad
the
open
source,
electronics
design
software.
So
we
can
actually
pass
that
on.
Those
are
some
recent
videos
from
some
of
our
people,
so
we
can
also
share
that
with
you
guys
basic
lesson
on
key
cad
literacy
to
turn
a
complete
loop
of
open
source
tools
here
yeah.
B
F
B
B
B
All
right
right,
any
any
questions
on
it
that
I
can
answer
so
far,
because
the
the
idea
is,
I
think,
the
the
build
guide
which,
if
you
go
to,
let
me
share
my
screen.
Actually,
I
can
show
you
what
we
have
on
the
resources
there,
but
the
universal
2
build
guide
so
that
we
have
a
development
page
for
the
d3d
universal.
It's
actually
formally
known
as
v20.07
standing
for
the
year
2020
that's
july.
B
B
If
you
want
to
take
a
look
at,
for
example,
the,
and
also
if
you
want
to
take
a
look
at
it
to
see
what
what
the
build
is
actually
like.
There's
it's
pretty
exhaustive
manual
that,
let's
see
if
you
present
I'll,
just
go
through
a
few
pages
of
it,
but
it's
pretty
much
watch
you
a
through
z
on
on
the
whole
process.
B
So,
starting
I
mean
it's
it's
interesting
in
a
sense
that
you've
got
the
the
bed
build
from
actual
nichrome
heater
wires
packages.
Up
to
this
nice
small
bed
with
a
high
performance
performance,
pei
surface
you've
got
all
the
axes,
the
universal
axis,
how
you
build
one
two
and
three
of
them,
but
the
basic
idea.
B
Being
that
the
printer
itself
is,
you
can
think
of
it
as
the
most
basic
kind
of
a
design
with
just
three
axes,
whereas
the
the
next
printer
up,
it's
got
a
different
kind
of
a
configuration
with
five
axes:
two
z-axis
and
two
y-axes,
whereas
this
is
just
a
simple
xyz
kind
of
a
system,
but
it
does
have
our
own
extruder,
the
d,
the
3d,
the
universal
gearless
extruder
for
three
three
millimeter
and
1.75
millimeter,
filament
and
yeah.
The
instructions
are,
I
think,
pretty
comprehensive.
B
If
you
want
to
go
through
that
to
see
what
it's
like,
you
should
be
able
to.
If
you
have
these
instructions,
pretty
much
go
through
the
entire,
I
mean
there's
like
159
pictures
to
the
final
final
step
of
everything,
and
then
the
only
thing
you
might
have
trouble
with
is
how
to
connect
everything
together.
There's
we
do
have
some
basic
in
a
build
manual.
B
So
in
the
build
instructions
there
is
a
step.
There's
steps
at
the
end
for
how
you
do
the
wiring.
I
don't
think
it
was
captured
well
in
a
manual.
I
think
you
might
might
have
to
add
a
couple
of
pages,
but
we
do
have
a
a
number
of
pages
like,
for
example,
on
the
universal
d30
universal,
the
original
one
there
was
we
had.
So
if
you
go
here,
build
instructions
build.
B
On
the
d3d
universal
build,
you
also
have
a
whole
section
on
the
electronics
and
controller
and
then
first
run
procedure
and
so
forth.
So
it's
pretty
decent
but
probably
like
one.
I
would
say
I
would
say,
probably
once
you
get
through
the
most
of
the
physical
build,
you
can
touch
back
with
me
on
on
the
electronics.
I
can
walk
you
through
it.
B
The
other
thing
is
the
real
fun
comes
in
when
you
can
use
freecad
and
then
you
can
print
design
and
print
using
your
printer.
So
we
can
also
have
a
I'd
like
to
do
a
basically
in
one
hour.
I
can
teach
you
how
to
do
this
basic
workflow,
which
involves,
if
you
can
draw
a
feature
upon
a
feature,
a
geometrical
feature
upon
a
geometrical
feature
which
is
constructive
geometry.
B
You
can
pretty
much
design
any
kind
of
an
object,
whether
it's
a
tractor
like
the
the
carriage,
the
3d
printer
pieces,
and
all
that
through
a
very
basic
workflow,
where
you
start
start
with
two-dimensional
shapes
you
extrude
them
into
3d,
and
then
you
can
draw
further
additional
shapes
that
are
either
additive
or
subtractive
like
holes
or
features,
and
with
that
kind
of
a
basic
workflow
in
freecad
that
can
teach
you
in
about
an
hour.
You
should
be
able
to
do
like
80
of
any
kind
of
cab
design.
B
So
that's
something
to
definitely
you'd
want
to
learn,
but
we
can
set
that
up
whenever
you
guys
are
ready
for
that
lesson,
so
that
that's
with
the
problem
I
wanna,
I
wanna
share
that
with
everybody
who's
here
and
who's
building
the
printers.
So
you
can
design
your
own
files
of
any
any
kind
of
size
and
shape
and
also
modify
the
existing
parts.
B
B
B
B
B
B
Maybe
do
the
session
or
or
if
not
maybe
a
little
later,
but
something
like
two
weeks
gives
you
at
least
good
time
to
start
and
for
some
of
you
to
finish
it
so
you're
ready
for
for
design
work
and,
if
you're
not
ready
for
design
work.
Yet
it's
you
can
still
take
the
lesson
and
start
generating
your
own
3d
prints
as
soon
as
you've
got
your
printer
running.
So
something
like
that,
I
would,
I
would
suggest,
maybe
like
two
weeks
from
now
on
saturday,
go
at
a
session
like
1pm
or
so
something
like.
F
B
C
A
couple
quick
ones,
so
I'm
I
kind
of
I'm
mocking
this
up
here,
the
heater
bed
right,
so
it's
like
yeah,
be
the
bottom
plate,
yeah
and
then
the
top
plate
and
then
the
heater
elements
in
between
sandwiched
in
exactly
and
then
we
have
these
bars
right,
yeah
that
that
go
here
to
all
around
the
four
edges.
Now
the.
B
Yeah
exactly
so
because
there's
also
another
piece
that
is
the
carbon
fiber
blanket,
which
is
the
insulating
square,
that's
six
by
six
inches
here.
It
is
so
if
you
look
at
my
machine
right
here,
yep
that
is
squooshy.
So
when
you,
when
you
pinch
it
with
the
bolt
it
holds
it
and
it
holds
it
in
place,
so
nothing
falls
out.
It's
an
effective
way
to
get
a
nice
sandwich
in
a
small
form
factor.
C
B
That's
correct
so
the
way
it
works
is
you
wrap
the
nichrome
around
the
inner
sleeve.
That's
only
two
feet,
so
you
got
a
two
foot
about.
You
know
that's
about
that
much
you're
going
to
basically
coil
that
up
into
the
heat
bed,
but
as
far
as
the
wire
itself,
you've
got
like
nine
feet
of
wire.
Exactly.
C
B
B
B
B
B
So
you
can
wrap
the
nichrome
around
that
and
that
won't
come
off,
but
like
why
I
said
you
got
a
three
foot
piece
of
fiberglass
sleeve
cut
like
two
six
inch
sections
at
the
end,
so
that
you
you
slip
them
on
to
the
the
end
so
you're
protecting
the
ends
from
you
basically
cover
up
the
fence
wire.
So
you
don't
get
a
short
circuit
yeah
under.
B
Without
poking
through
without
like
going
outside
the
braid
and
then
coming
back
in
because
that's
going
to
be
a
short
circuit
now
the
safety
feature
on
this
thing.
We
are
including
a
gfci
power
supply
circuit
breaker.
So
if
that
and
does
indeed
does
happen-
and
you
touch
it
you're
safe
from
that
kind
of-
but
we
do
have
a
gfci.
I
was
just
looking
up
at
at
statistics
for
how
many
people
get
electrocuted
by
household
appliances.
B
It's
about
200
people
per
year.
So
that's
why
we
have
the
the
the
gfci,
the
ground
fault,
connection,
interrupt,
which
means
that
if
you
touch
it-
and
some
current
goes
through,
that
thing
will
shut
off
within
milliseconds.
And
so
you
don't
get
hurt,
that's
a
good
safety
feature,
but
otherwise
that
bed
it
has
a
it's
pretty
much
insulated,
because
the
top
of
it
is
is
the
plastic,
the
pei
print
surface
and
and
the
way
it's
mounted
on
a
bed.
It's
also
through
insulators,
like
the
four
bed
mounts
they're
insulated.
B
So
it's
pretty
much
like.
If
there's
a
short
in
there,
you'll
probably
see
your
bed
fail,
but
you're,
not
gonna.
You
know
like
causing
a
dangerous
condition
where
everything
is
electrified,
but
if
you
in
case
you
do
touch
anything
that
you
shouldn't.
There's
the
gfci,
that's
the
protective
feature
on
it,
but
I
would
say
like
if
you're,
if
the
heat
bed
is
running,
I
don't
touch
it.
I
mean
it's
gonna
be
hot
for
one,
but
if
you
wanna
keep
super
safe,
don't
touch,
don't
touch
the
heat
bed
when
it's
on.
C
B
The
cool
down
the
bed
will
heat
down
by
itself.
So
there's
nothing
that
that
you
can
melt
with
that.
As
far
as
you
don't
need
to,
you
can
shut
it
off
pretty
much
immediately,
because
the
parts
will
just
cool
down
by
themselves
like,
for
example,
the
heater.
The
hot
parts
are
the
heater,
the
the
extruder
heater
block,
which
the
only
thing
you
have
to
for
any
meltdowns.
You
just
got
to
make
sure
that
your
your
cooling
fan
on
the
front
of
the
machine.
B
This
fan
here
is
running
because
otherwise,
if
it's
not
you're
going
to
get
a
clog
like
basically
the
heat
will
travel
throughout
the
entire
extruder
and
potentially
melt
some
things
down.
So
just
make
sure
that
whenever
the
printer
is
running,
that
fan
is
on
otherwise,
because
that's
the
big
heatsink
for
the
entire
extruder
assembly.
B
That's
the
this
is
the
the
heat
sink.
The
metal
heatsink
right
there,
but
the
fan
is
mounted
below
it
through
another
heatsink
below
that,
so
that
fan's
got
to
be
running
for
you
not
to
like
have
a
meltdown
and
the
meltdown
would
mean
that,
like
I
don't
know,
maybe
your
some
of
the
plastic
might
deform
somewhere,
but
that's
just
like
the
only
thing
for
danger
like
that.
The
heatbed
is
at
120
as
far
as
the
as
far
as
the
heater
element
in
the
extruder.
B
B
Just
one
of
those
tiny
power
supplies
gets
you
a
fast
high
performance,
heated
bed
because
you're
running
it
through
because
you're
running
the
otherwise
the
120
ac
through
the
solid
state
relay.
That's
in
the
back.
There
see
that
solid
state
relay.
That's
what's
handling
the
power,
so
you
don't
need
a
big
power
supply.
You
can
just
use
wall
power
and
just
turn
it
on
and
off.
So
that's
a
smart.
I
would
say
it's
a
smart
design
for
not
use
not
having
like
a
big.
Otherwise,
you
just
need
a
regular
big
power
supply.
B
E
B
That's
the
block,
that's
the
main
heat
sink,
which
takes
the
heat
from
the
heater
block
below,
and
you
do
on
all
the
cooling
through
that
block
so
that
mounts
directly
on
the
extruder.
That's
part
of
the
extruder,
but
the
details
there
are
in
the
extruder
like.
Let
me
show
you
my
screen
just
to
show
you
that,
but
that
should
be
pretty
clear:
an
extruder
build
so
in
the
extruder.
B
B
B
Yep
and
then
just
on
a
build
like
the
critical
thing
there
is
like
these.
This
heat
paste
there,
because
that
heat
paste
allows
you
to
cool
okay,
so
the
main
way
that
an
extruder
works
is
that
you
have
the
solid
wire
that
gets
pressed
in
and
then
it
melts.
But
the
thing
is
in
the
melt
zone
like
you
can't
push
that
like
once
it
melts
it's
out
of
control,
so
you
want
to
have
a
clear
break
between
the
solid
part
and
the
molten
part,
and
the
idea
that
this
is
inside
this.
B
B
The
extruder
has
a
tight
control
of
how
much
you're
pushing
so
that
you
control
how
much
you're
extruding.
So,
therefore,
you
need
a
nice
clear
break
between
the
solid
part
and
the
molten
part
just
saying
and
explaining
how
the
extruder
works.
Is
that
you
you
need
that
to
be
a
nice
gradient
saw
a
very
sharp
gradient,
so
don't
forget
that
heat
paste
there
that
will
be
like
the
secret
to
a
really
high
performance
extruder
and
that's
our
own
design.
So
it's
fully
open
source.
B
B
So
ours
is
completely
accessible
like
you
can
see
where
the
filament
goes
in.
If
you
have
any
clog
you
you
like
release
that
in
in
five
seconds,
so
it's
just
much
much
more
streamlined
for
performance
if
and
really
like
clog
free,
because
the
distance
between
the
point
you're
driving
the
filament
and
where
it
melts
the
the
heat
break
part
that
distance
is
the
smallest
in
the
industry.
B
The
flexible
filaments
are
already
they
already
bend,
so
you
can
only
go,
have
so
much
performance
on
how
fast
you
can
push
them
through
without
them
curling
up
like
a
like
a
noodle,
so
our
performance
we
claim
is
the
best
best
in
the
industry
on
that
aspect.
For
three
millimeter
extruders,
like
the
titan
arrow,
it's
like
you,
look
look
at
our
documentation,
but
we
show
like
we've,
got
like
28
millimeters
and
then
the
titan
arrow
has
got
like
almost
twice
as
much
as
far
as
the
distance.
B
C
Us
yeah
I'm
actually
interested
in
3d,
trying
to
3d
print
some
rubber
band.
Well,
you
know
flexible
tpu
or
whatever.
It
is
yeah
to
fix.
Cassette
recorder
like
like
audio
old
audio
cassette
recorders
belt,
driven
audio
cassette
recorders.
I
want
to
try
printing
these
little
thin
belts
to
see
if
I
can
get
it
to
work.
B
Yeah
yeah,
you
could
definitely
definitely
do
that.
You
can
use
the
point
four
nozzles
for
doing
that
kind
of
stuff.
The
print
like.
If
you
look
at
your
printer,
I
mean
we
print
with
the
big
nozzles
there.
We
typically
print
1.2
nozzles,
because
they're
super
fast
and
the
prints
are
super
strong.
Now
they
don't
look
clean.
You
got
to
clean
them
off
a
little
bit,
but
then
you
can
go.
B
B
B
B
Yeah
yeah,
so
if
you
guys
have
any
questions
in
a
build
I'll
put
I'll
add
a
couple
of
pages,
just
summarizing
all
the
electronics
parts,
but
maybe
if
you
guys
have
questions
or
you
can
meet
another
time
to
get
the
first
run
procedure,
but
it's
actually
pretty
cool
because
all
you
got
to
do
is
because
you
have
the
automatic
bed
leveling
through
the
probe.
The
startup
procedure
is
essentially
you
let
it
probe
the
bed
and
then
you
adjust
like
on
the
first
run.
B
B
So
then
you
do
this
fine
tune
and
you
save
that
value
and
that's
it
and
you
and
you're
set
for
printing.
So
on
the
first
print
you
can
make
that
adjustment.
It
will
print
correctly
and
you're
done
so,
even
on
a
very
first
print.
You
should
succeed
if
you're,
if
you
got
all
your
mechanical
system
going.
So
it's
it's
relatively
easy.
But
it's
a
lot
of
detail
to
get
to
that
point.
If
you
do
it,
it'll
fire
right
up,
yeah.
F
B
Yeah
so
well,
so,
let's
you
know,
let's
set
a
time
in
two
weeks
from
now
to
do
the
actual
free
cat
session,
where
we
can
teach
you
how
to
design
anything
and
for
that
actually
we're
going
to
freecad
16,
because
we
don't
want
to
put
any
confusion
like
the
freecad
18.
It's
got.
Some
extra
features
that
confuse
the
workflow.
B
I
would
actually
suggest
download
the
freecad
16
app
image.
If
you
guys
have
heard
of
app
images,
I
can
follow
up
with
that
or
just
use
the
osc
linux
2.0,
which
is
included
in
your
ray.
Have
you
been
testing
the
cura
and
freecad
on?
It's
all
good
right.
We're
all
good
on
a
freecad
16
on
osc2
linux
that
you
guys
should
use.
B
B
That's
great,
that's
great,
so
take
a
picture
that
send
it
to
us.
Send
it
to
me,
get
a
nice
picture.
So
we
we
see
everything
if
there
were
any
tricks
you
had
to
do
to
make
it
work,
but
that's
pretty
good.
I
mean
a
little
microcontroller
that
you
can
now
program
in
any
way
and
you
programmed
it
by
putting
into
another
arduino.
B
B
Yeah,
well,
that's
that's
a
good
day,
so
I
think
I
don't
know
any
other
questions
or
anything.
We
can
go
through
right
now
or
call
it
for
two
weeks
from
now.
The
the
good
thing
is
like
we
do
have
the
decent
design
like
with
the
small
3d
printer.
You
can
print
all
the
parts
for
the
electric
motor
that
we
linked.
B
So
if
you're
ambitious-
and
you
want
to
just
get
yourself
the
magnets
and
do
all
of
that-
that's
a
proven
design-
it
works
so
try
it
if
you're
ambitious.
I
actually
haven't
done
it
myself.
I
just
didn't
have
the
time,
but
if
you
want
to
do
that
and
and
share
that,
that
would
be
awesome,
because
I
think
it's
completely
practical
to
do
a
that
motor
because
it
uses
an
electronic
controller,
it's
actually
very
efficient,
it's
more
efficient
than
most
motors
that
are
out
there.
So
that's
actually
a
really
good
example
for
you
showing
here's.
B
A
3d
printing,
high
performance,
neodymium
magnets,
plus
an
electronic
controller
off
the
shelf
and
efficiency
is
really
high
because
it
doesn't
have
the
commutator
and
brushes
it's
an
electronically
controlled
motor.
So
it's
pretty
pretty
decent.
I
always
really
encourage
you
guys
to
check
that
out.
If
you
can.
B
B
Just
using
these
disk
magnets
and
eight
millimeter
millimeter
bearings
like
skate
bearings
and
the
same
shaft
like
the
same
eight
millimeter
shaft
that
we
use
in
the
printer.
That's
the
axis
and
the
rest
is
3d
printed
parts,
it's
pretty
nice.
So
if
you
do
build
that,
you
can
do
that.
I
mean
yeah
guys
I
mean
show
it
show
that
you
can
do
it
with
this
printer
that
you
built
yourself.
That
would
be
really
cool.
G
B
B
I
can
send
you
on
the
to
the
we
do
have
a
couple
of
the
nice
videos
on
on
a
keycad
instructional
that
peter
hijma
from
the
netherlands
did
showing,
through
going
through
a
basic
diagram
like
mitch,
showed
today,
but
he's
doing
that
in
in
key
cad
for
a
basic
lesson
of
how
to
set
that
up
and
actually
get
a
file
that,
if
you
want
to
send
it
to
like
a
board
shop,
you
can
actually
send
that
and
make
your
little
board
for
your
little
arduino
and
stuff
like
that.
You
can
share
that.