Open Source Ecology OSE Apprenticeship, 24 Jul 2021

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From YouTube: 120 Design Lessons - 3D Printer Interlude

Description

On Saturday, we take a break and party as we build 10 D3D Universal 3 3D printers. Get one at https://www.opensourceecology.org/d3d-universal-2/

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A

So this is a change of pace, 120, design, lessons day 20.. So today we'll cover the 3d printer. We went from the house, we got the corners up and built um two corners on the house actually built uh that feels good to actually see those things come up and in real life. So we see the actual house and it's built state. After all, the work in the in the workshop.

A

Let's see um you guys can see my screen.

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Yeah so go to go to the standard zoom link.

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So you can look at the links there and there once again in the design lesson started doc for day 20. You can see it from my log or let's go into it into chat box.

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Okay, chat box, we'll take a look at today's dock. Let's take notes there, so it's now 3d printer genealogy.

A

A

All right so maybe get rid of that one. So we want to talk about overview of the printer. So this is what the actual printer looks like um here.

A

That's that's a copy of the d3d v2 universal, that's universal! It's a small three axis system where you've got.

B

A

So z-axis moves up and down. Currently I just have this stop so so it doesn't pull down once it starts going. It doesn't think so. Prince.

A

Take off those last.

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Y axis moves back and forth. X-Axis is here, so it's a three-axis system.

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Just xyz the simplest, you can do three axes, uh unlike the the pro which has got two y axes and two z axes. So it's a total of five here's just three as the minimum and that's the basic basic design of the printer, so you've got.

A

So how does this thing work? So you've got the controller stepper motors, so three stepper motors xyz there's another identical stepper motor on the extruder and the universal axis concept, which is a long axis, just 5 16 rods and bearings inside the 3d printed piece.

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And that's it, that's that's the universal axis concept. Now you can expand this size quite a bit of the rods and that's where you get to the one inch or even the two inch for super heavy duty.

A

Now, how do we do the so.

C

The extruder is our design.

A

It's like the simplest thing possible. The unique feature about it is out of anything that you would see out there. It's got the shortest distance between the drive, drive, wheel and actual nozzle, like typically people make it too complicated. It's like um it's transparent, like if you get a clog, you know you release the spring. It opens up pull out the string. You can see that you can see the filament.

A

That's good, because.

B

I mean that's the.

A

Thing that's gonna fail on you like. If you get a clog, you gotta like open up the insides and mess with it. Here, it's very simple like if there's a clog, then you just do it. I've been running this one. Actually, this one I've been printing parts like last month, 24 7., not a single clog, not even a single failed print. Actually this is pretty getting pretty robust.

A

um You turn it on it. It pokes.

A

So you should turn it on and see what observe its behavior just just to see how it functions, but you plug it in you, get a power light on the power supply and then so print you go. I want to show you the the behavior. What happens when you start doing it uh start doing a print so that you can appreciate how this works, because it's self-leveling you this probe here probes on four points on the bed and gets the level, so it knows exactly where it is height, wise.

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Otherwise it doesn't know anything and then here the end stops. There's end stops like this one here. So when it goes to it, it knows where it locates itself, it actually triggered another.

A

I don't see a light it should trigger and you should see a light come on which, where the light is here, you can't see it, but it's that's how it knows the position it holds. It goes to the end. Stop here. It goes to then stop here and the z probe controls the z height.

A

uh It knows where it is on a z height. Now the the bed may not necessarily.

A

Be level I mean it could be twisted, and you see you see this axis, it's tilted down. It doesn't matter because what it means is that when you do the probing it will, it remembers that and then it adjusts for that. So you can have a visible angle off like this here you can see, but even if you can't see it, if you have, uh if you're printing with right now we're using 1.2 millimeter nozzles point four layer heights, I mean, if you get this tiny, offset, that it's wrong.

A

You're not gonna, hit the first layer and it's gonna fail, so you gotta be within a millimeter sub-millimeter accuracy in the first layer and that's what this probe does by probing. So, let's, let's show an example of print from sd card, so there's an sd card. Here we put in putting our prints there uh cura lulzbot. Here I recommend you can use cura regular cure, but I don't recommend it and I don't want to support it because it's too complicated it's got too many things in there for a novice. It's absolutely not needed.

A

Rosebot cura has the basics. It's pretty straightforward, transparent! Have you used regular cura versus regular yeah? I don't like it. Do you like it.

C

It's okay, too,.

A

Many things so too many settings and if you miss one setting, it's not going to print so so keep it simple, especially when you're doing the first time so print from sd, uh whatever like uh first file there. So what it does right now you can see the that's the light. It's there. It's a halogen light bulb two of them and it's fast.

A

It's like it's at 30 and and the extruder here also went on at the same time it's at like 30 as well, but the this bed will turn off pretty quickly because it's and then it's going to wait for the heater here. Typically, the other way around you're waiting for the bed to heat up, but this is radiant heat, so it travels immediately into the print surface.

A

It's not like typically resistive heating, where you have to hit go through material like solid material.

A

But here it's radiant heat is kind of like the media. It's just faster. So that's really cool. I don't know anybody that does that that uses uh halogen heaters now that so it's already at temperature, it's 60.. It's already 60. see it's hot.

A

And now we're waiting for the extruder and it's we're at 120 on that extruder and the bed is already at like 70.. um Now, there's a trick to this. Those are two 120 volt bulbs in series on a 120 volt system. What that means is that we're using quarter to power so that they're going to last like if you just did a halogen in 120 and it's a 120 halogen it might burn out. But this the stress point on like a light. Incandescent light is when you turn it on. It gets all hot really fast.

A

So the trick here and that's what I was testing for like are these things going to burn out in a second, I think if you ran them at 120 on a single bulb, which means 120 volts for a 120 bulb, it may burn out much faster, but so far it's like it's been a month of pretty much on on and off because it cycles many times during a print and that's still safe.

A

uh It hasn't gone out yet I don't expect it to it. Should this should last thousands of hours uh as far as the heater element itself, the balls themselves, regular halogen bulbs, otherwise you're paying like 20 bucks for a heater pack yeah? So it's another cool thing now the thing is about that is we're running at 120, so we got a gfci element here so that you don't get shocked um so 120, for example those wires.

A

There are 120., um so look at the behavior, so it owns it homes on this now it's gonna probe the bed with this probe and you'll see that light turn on when it hits the bed and now my little lock. I just use this like. We should probably put like springs in here, so it doesn't hold on for now. We've just got this this little lock, which I'm using like one of these parts as a lock, so it touches it now it goes from slowly.

A

It goes to the so it's going to hit four points.

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Second point:.

D

Where is the probe? Is it.

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It's this thing. It's the sorry.

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C

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Sensor that senses metal and now it starts printing. So now it it's sent to where it is and now you're printing and that's it. So that's how it kind of looks. um Oh well, we don't have filament, but we got this little bit of filament left here.

A

So it's going to get sucked in and it's starting to print. And you see it's it's right. On the first layer I mean that's just that's pretty cool like um yeah and.

B

It hits it so I never had to adjust it. A single.

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Time after I got it in this is good robust. um So that's that, so what do we do here? What are the things we're cutting this rod.

A

Six inches.

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Six inches these rods 12 inch.

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This rod 12 inch now the bed rods. Actually, let's make it so if you see the length of it, it's a little longer than 12, isn't it so how long do we make it? The rods are all the way: yeah they're long, they're they're like 14 and a half, so we should do 14 and a half or 14 14 to keep it 14 a spine.

A

um So I'm going to stop that before it uh there's the reset switch on here, so it just quits, because I want to keep that filament from going all the way down in the hole, but.

C

Actually, like now.

B

A

Wherever I got, it ended up with a filament got it sucked in you just put the new one in and just push it through, but you got to be a temperature because once it cools off it's solid, you can press it through um anyway, let's start at a first print, 14 inches. So let's, um how do you do it? One person cut rods, maybe there's a few cutting parts.

A

So, let's go to first of all, okay on my screen, if you want to take a look at the screen, what page do you go to find out the latest version? It's called d3d genealogy and there's like we've built dozens every single time. You improve something so we're now advert. This is actually called d3d universal b21.06, which means that this was started in june.

A

um Now uh it's this is not 28 106.. This is v2. So what's new in v3 and v3, um I didn't make that explicit in the description there, which should be made explicit and that is integrated all right. The deal is here's a couple of things. First, the number one deal is you can print another one of these with this? How well you notice, the bottom piece is pretty big.

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This whole piece is all is about 12 inches, so broken crack it in half just break it in half printed in two pieces and also.

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This piece here just put feet on that and put feet on this piece, so you can attach it directly to the the board. So there's a cut cut list. That's a 2x12 with contact paper, black contact paper. So what do we do? 14 inch? 2X4 is our cut list.

A

So cut list, let's say 14 inch of 2x12. Who wants to do that so so we know how to cut already so uh so the board here. It's too short, this is like 12 inch. Now we want to extend it to here, so we can mount this piece. It has its own feet and it's 15. uh 15.. So.

C

B

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15 the number let's say for the rods so so rods are 15. Two of the inch.

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And four of 12 inch.

A

And then one of six inch and then there's more one six inch and what about here? The bed is riding on these rods too. So there's two rods on the bed.

A

One for reference that is eight inches two rods that are eight inches.

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Well, these are, these are 15., but these ones here, that's what the bed rides are. Those are seven or eight. Let's see what would suffice, it's seven and a.

C

Half just call it a.

A

Two of the eight inch now this is this is in the build material. So if you go to the okay, let's say today's working doc here: okay, let's do the link to the 3d printer master file.

A

So there's a development board for this.

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So on the genealogy page, if you click on the latest one, it's already got this all seated and what happens there is I bring forward everything that applies from before um so, for example, for the cad there's new parts, because we broke down the base into two parts for three parts, so 3d printer dev board? Is there.

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So how does that look there? So you see like instead of the one big base thing main base assembly well broken into two pieces part one and.

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I don't know what's happening, so this is what I'm saying like this piece here.

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That sits that's this piece with some paint so.

C

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Like make this whole thing, independent, therefore, also if you have skewness like for example, if this thing this can skew.

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Well, if you got any skewness issues, you can just keep one screw attached and you know move it at a slight angle to make it at the right angle. So it's an adjustment piece, okay, cut list. What else is in the cut list?

A

um So you'll see here? That's just conduit. Just use conduit six inches so that you have a spacer between this under the conduit is, but is a carbon fiber blanket it's an insulator, both electrical and heat.

A

So for the cut list you need two pieces of emt conduit which are six inches, so two pieces emt one half inch conduit, that's the metal conduit, for they run electrical in that um six inch. Long.

A

What else do we need? So we've got this this top plate. We got that already from the store from metal by the hood six inch square pieces. This is one eighth inch and this is 6 16, but in the bottom one there's a screw and then on to the top one there's a welded nut that you screw the screw into so for this bottom piece, which is 16 drill, a quarter, inch hole.

A

See that that bolt at the bottom there's a bolt through it holding the top piece, because how do you hold this thing on um you take an allen. It's an allen bolt it's the same bolt as we use use here like this same bolt, you screw it in from the bottom and then there's a welded nut. It's.

B

A

A

Okay, so there's so cut list is a drill drill hole in the center of the 16th inch plate.

A

In center, on the back, so how do you do that? Draw two lines across and the center marks the center? The cross point marks the center drill hole in center of 1 16 inch plate.

A

For the top plate that needs a little weld after you do all the rods grind them with a grinder. The edges are going to be sharp, so just make them do a little bevel on it. So yeah they're, not sharp right after the huddy cut the rods, abrasive metal cut off. That's what we do.

A

Yeah, that's that what else do we need to cut? We talked about 14 inch of 2x12 and really make it just really safe.

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15 inches 2 by 12.. That's the base. What else do we need to cut when we look in my notebook? We missed anything.

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What at all swirls, we got a bunch of rods, basically, is the main.

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That's it so then the next step was uh so. We got all the printed parts um I'll take the car up there to get the printed parts, but what we do is, like you see these ones that just came off.

A

I think we should uh start with well. We can do like do like a simple thing like that: the this y-axis here, the bed axis- that's that's like comprehensive axis you'll see how the bearings go. There's bearings that go inside these pieces, there's a belt that goes through it there's a way to attach the belt there's a little idler in this piece here and then there's the stepper motor on this piece.

A

So we could do those um we're not gonna need um so things like all we do is take screws and attach these to the base like like just one and a quarter inch black screws because they have um they.

B

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These little feet just screw that down to the platform. So um then there's electronics and there's uploading the code, which is d3d the same code as this applies to the universal 3, has the same code as v2, so we can upload the same code or if someone wants to change the in marlin, you have to change here. It says d3, universal b20.04.

A

So in the code that we upload in the marlin, we can change that. That's the only change we have to make to the code updated to 20.06.

A

Beyond that all the settings are are good, uh so cutting first, then the controller is effectively. So you got your control screen. There's the arduino mega thing here: power supply gfci with plug and then there's a relay that switches on the bed, because uh your arduino cannot handle 120 volts. It just gives a signal to this relay and then it activates the bed- that's 120 volts. Everything else is 24 volts here, um yeah.

A

So we can go about that questions. What do we do? So? Let's cut all the parts and yeah questions on how to proceed.

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The the document, if you want to know the documentation for so once again in the development template that board like how do you identify parts, that's an important part, but if you go to the bom, so first of all, you've got the cat images of all the all the parts uh you can identify. Bed mount carriage.

A

You know axis motor side, idler side, all these pieces, um I would say the extruder is the most complicated part to to build because um it's got small parts on it. So, but we've got a bunch of small parts, it's got multiple parts, it's just kind of a little intricate.

A

You have to align the drive cog to the so it's exactly over the whole little filament hole, so there's alignment there, but other than that. It's like your screw locations, there's just little play as far as how far you put on the drive drive gear. That's like the only perhaps the only point of accuracy you really have to pay attention to has to be exactly over the hole. Otherwise it will just jam.

A

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The bom is a good place to look at, so if you go to the.

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The spreadsheet you can take a look at the actual links to the store parts. So if you want to see what is that frame and axes, 3d printed parts socket screws, so you have a link to every single thing, so you can take a look at okay. What is that that didn't work.

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Controller and stops click through all these things, but it's if you study this like you'll, see all the parts um that are in there and that's that's like a whole whole day to understand this.

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It's a lesson on there's: uh there's a total of 82 parts, 82 unique parts that I'm counting here about, which is still very low because, for example, by comparison I looked at the open source, lulzbot taz and it had 1 400 parts in it. So 82 is less than 1400, which is in terms of business complexity and logistics.

A

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um But yeah, just very simple design: try to reuse a lot of parts as much as possible, like the bolts we use throughout like even like to hold the sensor, and we use the same bolt in the back here. Just just park. Redundancy.

C

Basically, using m6.

A

Bolts and uh m3 bolts, that's pretty much all we ever what we ever use here: uh m3 and m6 just paying attention to okay when we're putting this together. What's a robust bolt size well, m6 is quite kind of robust. It's a quarter inch um and go from there and just some m3s like the m3s. You need because they're these tiny bolts that go into the extruder, you can't do m6 there and use zip ties to arrange all the wires yeah.

A

So that's the basic thing you can get into the details of every single part in the vom and you can look at the cat in terms of every single part. That's in it. We do have cad okay, like if we open up the cad, for um I think the last version has its complete cad.

A

Well, let's see v2 like right. There that's the assembly there, you don't have v3 with the separated parts. How would you get to v3? You would basically take the existing v2, take out the base and insert the two piece or three piece base, and the only other change I'll point out like, for example here, which makes the next iteration simpler.

A

So this piece here this was a separate z-axis that that was attached to the base through four bolts like two here and two there. We just said: okay just put the the motor piece right on the base. That's it uh reduce those two parts to one so that you know. First of all, like you, don't have any play in that, because it's one piece now and then you just stick the rods in there.

C

If you take a look.

A

A

The overall cad for the machine.

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This is what we have right now. Well, no, it's just I don't know where it is. We have a like more or less complete, but not that's just the base in electronics. That's that doesn't have it. If we go to the last version, hopefully the let's see.

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uh The last universal v2 2007 and a cad.

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We should have the is that updated base.

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We might not even have the whole model, but all the pieces are there, so we have to put them into the finished machine. Let's see the v2 assembly here. How far is that? Is that the same.

A

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That was the same one, so we need to in order to compose the entire cab you just have to put in all the parts yeah. So it's not assembled. This is all the individual parts are there, but the overall assembly is not right. Now we have the overall extruder assembly um yeah, that's fully catted up. You can look at that in detail because that's like we consider this as a separate module. That's that goes on the pro. It goes on all the printers start, with the universal to the pro the same same design.

A

Okay, any questions on what to do we'll, go to the shop and cut the parts and then come back here and start cleaning off the pretty printed parts like they're all cosmetically impure, but they're they're, very strong other than that.

A

So basically, they'll take a knife and just clean off all the excess chaff from the hearts.

C

A

So in the workshop we.

C

Want to do the cutting the rough cutting, but I think we should build here so.

A

C

We should just grab all those grey boxes.

A

Two four: six: seven, seven printers parts enough for seven. So if we divide the tasks up into cutting grinding parts, we gotta make seven sets and the best would be like once we come back here. Let's just do it together like I'll build it, you guys can follow and just do that way. There's a comprehensive!

A

It's like a hundred page build guide. It's got every step in there for v2, which means you substitute the parts where you just broke the base down into the three parts, but everything else is the same.

A

Everything other than the three piece space is identical so that that guide, if you want to boot it up load it up. That would be. If you go to the working dock, go to the dev board and do the build.

A

A

Let's see well, build instructions are red there, so we want to do is I'll, redirect it to 2104.

A

C

C

C

No, what is this one called.

A

2004, let's look at the genealogy 2007.

B

A

B

A

I see so here we have 2007 build instructions, those are the ones that are the latest, but what we should do, since this is 2007 with a one piece base. We should just copy this one: don't redirect I'll open this one up and make a whole copy, and then we can add the little changes into this, so I'm going to do file make a copy entire one.

A

So this is d3dv.

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21.06 build instructions so mostly the same, except for the few pages on the base.

A

So I'm gonna put that yeah 2106.. No redirect you don't want to do that. You want to go straight to the actual document.

A

A

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And then just embed it.

C

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So we can edit this and call this.

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21.06 so change that.

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21.06 and v3, so this is our starting point. I mean you can go through the comprehensive.

A

Deal here, tools identify the printed parts. um It's like the layout of how that looks.

A

Oh yeah, so none of this thing this is now with other changes that uh that's a new thing for me. So besides, the one piece base is the nichrome nichrome, then taking nichrome wire, which is hot, hot ie uninsulated, so you have to put in the sleeve. That was hard. That's why we went to this. We can build some of those they're hard to build they're an electrical hazard. If you don't get the insulation around it and they tend to burn out.

A

This is much safer, easier to build and quicker to build. So that's a that's a major upgrade, because those heater elements formerly were pretty painful to do and that's the build steps and the design the build guide that shows what we were doing before now. We got to replace that with just the halogen heater so before we used to make these insulated wire sets, uh but other than that yeah same how you attached.

C

This is important how you.

A

Attach the drive sprocket, you want to make sure you do it tight when it's correct, I would actually put a little bit of crazy glue like right on the top like over time. That's the only thing that it's gonna fail on you. It's like all the printers pretty much like after some time the screws would get loose so either use loctite or just a little dab, just a tiny drop of crazy glue on a shaft.

A

I would just do that because right there, I just put a little drop of crazy glue right there and that thing is not going to loosen up on you. I've seen the screws loosen up over time, even though they were pretty tight at the prawn. They tend to get loose because it's vibrating all the time. It's making these little steps all the time.

A

Steps that you can't really see like you'll see it. If it's moving very slowly, you see that's actually not continuous, but it's little steps. That's a vibration at every. You know thousands millions of vibrations for every print and that tends to get things loose um yeah. So that's that's like the biggest thing. I'm getting this thing to work is making sure this part here.

A

The pulley is at the right height on the shaft and that it's tight and that will save you a lot of headaches later on now what else bearings inside the carriage um rods? If the, if the bearings are too loose, put a little bit of thread tape on them tape thread they boots uh electrical tape, just to get them tighter.

A

Belts belts have these little ends on.

B

A

These details and here's the starting electric ball. That's all wired up. It's all electrical wiring detail more electrical, more electrical plug, so that's the gfci, the safety there and that's on the right hand. Side is the solid state relay that turns on the 120 volt heaters, the power supply. Is this thing and that's your controller board lcd screen integration mounting the heat bed mount the end stops there. You go.

A

So, what's that.

A

Some cut list, so what are the rod lines.

A

That's that's the main thing to cut it right. Wetlands, six inches and two eight inches eight inches for these. These two here.

A

The ones that are gliding are three axis this one here, that's actually got bearings inside this assembly, so it can rotate freely. So the spool goes on it this one here and the bedrocks. They don't have to be like glide quality. They can be rough, but we've got stainless steel. So this these rods here are not stainless steel they're.

A

It's called 2014 l, steel, which is easy to machine, but it rusts it tends to rust. So I got stainless steel more in tune with lifetime design. I mean when.

B

You're using it it'll.

A

Never rust on you, but once you, if you have it sitting and you've got humidity, these rods will rust on you after some time.

A

So, like you see in the shop, there's boxes or boxes of rods that are rusted and you just take sandpaper and take the rust off, but the stainless would be more more valuable like never rust. So that's cool uh retains its value for a longer time. So we got the stainless we'll cut the stainless rods. We should probably do them like if we're doing seven sets, take a bundle of seven and cut all. At the same time, there's one abrasive cutoff saw which has got markers.

A

It's got markers for lamps, like it's got kind of like a jig or lens, so you can use that one there's one room there.

C

A

So world division who's doing what we go in there who's cutting what he wants to cut the wood, all the scraps on on the floor there we can use those those are good. Then I've got contact paper and we make it look like this or spray paint it I mean. I think the contact paper looks neat.

A

It's just the base. It's a cosmetic thing. You can keep it as wood if you want to and shine it up, sand it if you want to, but yeah. This easy way is to use contact paper and make this black face.

C

All right, cutlass.

D

Who takes what so we need seven of the two by twelves yeah.

A

Yep, seven two by twelves: well, actually we need one for matt. Eight, we need eight sets. One person is not here in fact, uh so our guy chris is also arriving too. We should make nine for him because he's gonna need one too we're doing it right now, so yeah they're, nine.

D

Legal parts for later.

A

Yeah two sets so one we ship to matt immediately and chris should be arriving on the 25th which is like tomorrow, so chris from.

A

Peru, oh brian, what about brian he's not showing up these days? Let's see oh yeah, we should 10.

D

A

A

A

Okay, because the 3d printer, we can use to prototype things like, for example, when we build a torch table and other things uh it.

A

So what happens when we're doing that kind of stuff you're not doing it like printing parts for other things, um there's a compelling case for that. But I mean it's up to you.

B

All right: well, I guess.

B

A

Is applicable in the sense that um so, for I mean what's the reality of this, so you print one at a time right. Let's say you got a cnc torch table where each piece is like six inch by six inch by like one and a half inch. You know that's a six hour print or whatever uh or longer, depending on the infill like if it's full infill like, if you don't make it super strong, that's gonna, be like uh that's gonna, be like a spool of filament there. That's that's like a 24 hour print.

A

So what that means is that when we're doing the torch table, which has got those big parts, if you've got eight printers or ten, uh each each axis is three pieces, so at one time you're making enough for three axes and it's got five axes total. So, basically, in two days we print the parts which is realistic, as opposed to we gotta spend ten days or twenty days well times. Ten, so that's that's how it works. Printers are not fast like either.

A

You have like a larger printer with a bunch of multiple heads that you can put like. Nine of these there's no reason why you can't put like nine of these on a single printer, so you got a fast production printer like that. That's what we want to do. uh Definitely in uh in a summer x time when we're building larger printers. It's gonna have multiple heads, so you can simply print faster or think about printing, like nine two by fours out of plastic at the same time, but with these individual ones.

A

We can simulate that by a swarm. So that's how that applies to the, for example, the cnc torch table where, like on a daytime scale, we've got the parts as opposed to waiting a week for the parts. So that's how it's relevant on that yeah.

D

You can kind of modify the printer too, like I mean, if.

C

You're really familiar.

D

With it, you can turn it into like. Maybe the engraver or oh.

A

Sure I mean we've got right here, this other slot. This is also a plotter already, so you put in a pen here right and you run g code- that's for plotting. So, for example, just to show you examples of what we have done already so d3d plotter yeah. I mean it's a multiple tool head. You can do circuits, we've done a little bit of drilling of circuit holes.

A

So let's see d3d pen, plotter, osc d3 universal plotter. If you go to that, look at that, so there you go uh people drawing things out like this. That's all it is it's just a pen and and uh actually there's there should be a.

D

D

A

Look at melanie log, actually she's been working on that this is just a remote collaborator.

A

So stuff like that, um let's see any like this! Well, that's not that's just a it's, not a real print!

A

Plotter, let's see plotter log we've got some nice pictures for what it can do right now, plotter log, I believe like so that's done with a print using pointillism. This is using squiggles.

A

um Now you can do addresses this is points yeah, so we've got, you know, there's different ways to do it. You can do um these are just squiggles. Pointillism is quite nice I mean you can. This is not well refined. This is like you can keep working at this and refine this to pretty cool printing.

A

uh We just did a little bit of that work, but yeah. That's that's doable right! Now, let's see what about the 3d cnc circuit now. Well, no.

D

No most of the photos are just marketed as printers not even like. Oh it's, this universal tool. You can just throw this other head on and do this with it too.

A

Yeah yeah I mean the xyz axis is a uni universal thing.

A

See like keycard 101, we when we did this, we actually uh we did the holes.

A

In one of the steam camps, we did the hole drilling for the circuits.

C

A

A

A

2019 videos of some of the builds here.

A

You know if you go to our youtube. We show some nice, uh let's see maybe on our channel.

A

Look at d3d universal circuit.

A

A

I don't see it off him, but.

C

A

We're selling them for 500 bucks on the website.

B

A

Let's see folger log holder than this.

C

C

A

Somewhere there, but we did um like, for example, to do uh in order to do like a little circuit with an arduino, because you can get so for this arduino that we use here.

A

Our circumno is not good enough to do it because it's got. This is like very tiny, but the regular arduino, like the arduino uno. You can take on this thing. You can take a circuit board and you can do do the holes that you drop in that 328p microcontroller chip, and then you can mill the paths between it to do a simple arduino.

A

So in the tech recursion scenario, where you're actually using the machines to build further machines, you can build. We actually have very good instructionals on our diy arduino, where you have just the chip and the minimal system components only like five other components on a simple circuit board that you can then mill with this. This thing right here so uh and well, just to show I remember this. This was in um new zealand steam camp.

A

Actually, we have some pictures of the milling.

C

A

Yeah this thing here look at some of the stuff.

C

Like there's the milling part.

A

There, so you can do something like this. This is actually just a circuit holes. You can do a pattern like this. We actually insert the chip, the 328p, it's this long, microcontroller chip and you can do I mean the lines there are like tenth of an inch. So it's easy for a device like this to do it, but you have to go super slow. I mean this. I mean it's got a lot of wobble like if you put.

A

If you make these rods thicker like half inch or one inch, then yeah, you can do that pretty robustly uh this kind of stuff, but with these tiny rods I mean you know you can shake it around and it moves around when you're drilling into the material there's forces, but for a 3d printer there are no forces, it's just extrusion. So that's fine for that right. Once you go to higher forces.

A

This is too small, um but we also did do the pro based uh d3d circuit mill. So this is the official actual one. That's well supported.

A

So the one with the two z axes like this that well so that's that's the thing with uh you're just holding using multiple redundant axes here, so you got two y-axis and two z-axis two x-axis. So it's a six axis system um and then this is the kind of stuff you get more precise stuff with that, like.

A

Possibly yeah I mean look at that. I mean that's, that's pretty cool. We can actually make one of those stepper drivers chips, that's what we actually did there. We made one of those stepper driver chips with that in keycap, so yeah anyway, multiple tool heads is cool like the laser is a simple low hanging. Proof, that's also force less.

A

You can get like 15 watt lasers. They can cut cardboard like tiny little laser heads yeah. We have some of those you can work with later um and it gets into you. Gotta pay attention to safety there, because 10 or 15 watts that's enough to blind you and stuff or something different.

B

A

So you want to put an enclosure around that all right. That's all we got on this so cut this 15 inch for the wood for the rods.

A

We can get out a few, a couple of the abrasive cutoff saws, and you can just mark mark the things I would just suggest take a bundle of nine and cut them all at the same time that works, so you just cut it cut it that way. Now I can show that. Let me restart with that.

A

Gotta cut the emt, we gotta drill the hole in the center. We can just take the drills, uh our drills and the the quarter inch bit. You can just drill it by hand into a piece of wood, but you got to hold it. It's the safest. I would don't use the mac drill. That's that's! Actually, a little dangerous, like you can put you, can drill through a 16-inch plate relatively easily, with a half with a quarter inch bit like for this bottom plate.

A

That's got the hole at the bottom that you can just do by hand, so drill cut, emt, cut rod and cut wood.

A

So maybe take a picture of that and let's get in there.

A

Simple enough, but yeah I mean complexity here. This is more complex than the walls we're building right now it's got extruders got like 20 parts, and it's not a lot. It's still very simple. Compare compared to others. I mean this is simpler compared way, simpler compared to other printers way simpler.

C

A

So, let's do nine nine sets um ten back to ten back to ten, so tens. So therefore, well so then 10 of those 20 of the 15 inch 4 times 10 is 40 of the other ones.

A

10 of the 6 inch 20 of the 8 inch and then 2 times. 10 is 20 emt. So that's cut list for 10.

A

And then 10 of these I'll weld up the little elongated nut.

C

A

A