Open Source Ecology OSE Fellows, 10 Sep 2018

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From YouTube: Extruder Build

Description

See https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Microfactory_Boot_Camp_-_Extruder_Build for supporting details of build.

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A

But shooter face-to-face me beep site, which was the big.

B

That's the PATA that he stuffed back to get help and thermal briefs.

B

There's some Teflon tubing. You don't need the fan shroud here, so you can put that back. We heat the pan need a little sock, there's some screws that he provides.

B

So the instructions say step number one: that's the North American South, the filament. This one is 21 Cornelia.

C

B

You want to get the nozzle and orientation will matter.

D

First, the nozzle, the first instruction center to make sure the nozzle goes on the right side, so which is the right side here. It's showing the side with a three three holes.

D

So let's screw it, it don't do it in almost to the end and then just screw it out and be a quarter and put it in the feed break.

D

This critical part extend there, but what it does is that it actually breaks the heat like it prevents the heat from traveling from this hot end, which melts the plastic up to the rest of the machine. So so that's the keep break the general ideas you don't want to be. Turning on the heat break like putting a lot of pressure at this depth in Little Neck, so you want to do it. After after we took out the nozzle just a little bit, we want to tighten the nozzle a little more.

D

Why you back off it because you want to be tight against against the key break. They bought them out together, but you don't wanna, be turning this one because it's easy to break so you want to tighten again now we're gonna, tighten it for the final later like what I prefer. Is that?

D

Okay, if you do it all the way in yeah quarter, turn just a little bit and then you put that one against it just by hand time and now you can tighten this against so the tool for that would be a little tiny, wrench yeah. It happens to be a number on that one as a seven seven millimeter wrench would probably have some more in there. Don't worry about tightness yet screw in heat break. So so I'm gonna just tighten this down. Okay, BAM, you know just tighten it, so they got them down.

D

You want to be as close as possible because that's the the heated part there's what the tech plastic passed through its. If it's sticking too far out, may not get enough heat and it will clog and up clogging. So you want it to be tight. There we go so, as shown in the diagram. The the heat break is on a site with the one hole the nozzle is on the side with the three holes.

D

Oles, okay gather the thermistor parts. So thermistor is the heat sensor. This thing it's a little thing inside a copper jacket and we're gonna cut off the wires later, because we don't have this plug you just solder it together, so you want to put it in where's my thermistor hole.

D

This it goes once again goes all the way through, so you can get it in from one side or the other. It does matter which so I'm gonna look at our extruder here. The idea is that, on one side of the heater block, one side, you've got the height sensor, the other side. You've got open, so you want to have the wires go on the open way. Now we have to just figure out which way that is once we put this into the so I'm.

D

Actually gonna have to play with this a little bit, because I cannot tell offhand by looking at it. I'd have to look at the extruder parts, so you've got this thing, which way is this thing pointing to the left and how do they describe the orientation they just say pay attention to. It depends on the machine you're using so let's, let's assume that is good for now we're gonna take a tiny, little screw and fit that fix that thermistor and they have the tool.

D

So here you gotta kind of pay attention to all these parts, and this is the thing the hardest part of the build here. So it's a tiny little set screw put.

A

D

And grab on to the.

B

D

So do that then just not hard, because it's that's just a you're gonna crush that for mr. there. So let's say: we've got this next thing down I'll check that on check the resistance through it. We won't worry about that for now. We'll do that later. Okay, now the heat element, the heat element. They say you want to point it typically the same way as the thermistor is pointing, and that's because we want all the wires going one direction so point it the same way.

D

E

This thing is a resistor. This is.

D

You put electricity through it any heats up. That's all it is it's like light bulb.

F

Without the light.

D

So it's got a metal piece around whatever's inside. What's it you think it's ceramic inside I, don't know what's inside so here we're gonna now tighten that down about too hard. But what I'm seeing is a pen like get it like centered halfway, so it sticks up a little bit one way and sticks out a little bit the other way. Okay, so it's it's saying time to m3 by ten socket, don't screw with the m3 washer on it.

D

So they call for a washer.

D

Three washer three millimeter.

D

Tight-Knit, they provide the little wrench.

D

So that's tight and then just go on it. It's tight, so our mr. it says check that it's in it's in next heater block, heats heat sink thermal paste. So the idea is this heat break. In order for it to function, you have to have good conduction into this cooler.

D

This is what the fan blows against a cool, dub cool that part here. The idea is that you want to transition from solid filament here as quickly as possible at the molten stage and there's like a mystery zone like a transition zone in there. You want to make sure that that doesn't get stuck. That's why you have the heat break, so you go from the very hot on the end through that little piece, that's very thin, so it minimizes conduction, but then the cool part here so you're trying to be solid in this area.

D

Here when you print you also retract, to prevent losing from happening. So you have to have I guess the clear the distinction between molten and solid is the solid will function like a pump pumps in and pumps out, so we're really pushing like a solid piston into this molten little pond inside the hot end. So you can think of that, but for good thermal contact you need this a little bit of thermal paste. So take this little sachet or whatever they call it.

G

And then you need to cool down again.

G

D

Coming out liquid inside well, when it comes out, it's still liquid right, yeah and it's.

F

D

That it's some the way the briefing works, the heat from the top layer melts into the layer below it. That's how the bond it's not the fact that the layer below is molten and you're just fusing the next layer. That's a good distinction to understand, because what that means is, if you stop a printer for print bells, you can wait like a day and you can return to it, because it's the layer that you add to it that melts in that's important to know for the theory of how it works.

D

On the threads all around a good thermal contact, does anyone know what thermal paste is for real I? Don't either.

D

Well, it must be I, don't know, maybe like molten Teflon or something I, don't know something.

H

That'll give you cancer for sure yeah.

D

There you go yeah so spread it around, and they emphasize this point, so do do it because you do want. As we said, you want that good transmission of heat, so you're cooling off in that transitional zone immediately to this heatsink. So do that how tight? What's it's like screwing, the heatsink volumes to be hand, tight, don't use thermal paste anywhere else that says yeah so hand tight, we're done gather following parts assembled hot end. Call it call it clips so here without this part yeah.

D

We need that without that part doesn't even work so I mean this is well engineered and one thing I found out about this is there's all these foams and they they're made a little bit differently, all of them, and it's pretty weird, because this is fully open spot. You can look at the blueprints exactly, but people copy it and they do it not like this. So you question why one of those things about how technology transfers?

D

It's probably that people think? Oh it doesn't matter or all maybe I'm too smart I, don't need that, but without it without doing it. Like exactly the same, you see you hear a lot, there's a lot of problems with different products getting clogged.

D

So you got to do this and who kind of blew me away that none of the tribes, the clones like really it's hard to find one? That works any question. Well, why don't they copy it and I? Think it's kind of like the diffusion of technology in general is pretty low like we're in this non collaborative age still so, maybe in the future we get better, but but for now the clone guys you'd think they'd want to do it right because I'd only be buying it from everyone like that's in a no like.

D

You know we care about this, so we definitely want to go or the real thing and all the pros they do that they do the real thing. So one of the details that matters is this little clip and the fact that, even though this is called an all-metal hotend, it's got plastic in it.

D

That's what they call it. It's called an all-metal hotend. Maybe that's what confuses the clone guys because they are some of them. Don't have this inside, but this is Teflon. It's a it's! A high-temperature plastic like your Teflon cooking pan. That gives you cancer or something, but you want to stick it in all the way in to till it bottoms out against the heat break.

D

So there's a continuous path straight through like no little gap in between there, because the plastic got in there if you're retracting, what if that was semi molten and you were not pulling out or it was semi, molten and you're trying to pull in it, doesn't really pull it. So you want to have that gap closed as much as you can so use the Teflon. You cut it off at a great precise length and then put in this little Collard clips.

D

This is another one of these little tiny things that are absolutely critical, because if you didn't put this, this thing actually locks that flip locks it in, if you didn't lock it in the Teflon, might come in and out and you'd end up and get in the cloggers. So you want to cut it off. Let's so first they insert the little thing. So it's just pressure fit just go just go!

D

That's four Barb's I put in three the fourth one will make sure all the four bars go in okay and just a snaps.

G

F

D

What happens with a call clip if you put the clip under that, pushes it pulls and constricts and that grabs the tech line? So let's look at the length of the tap one. We need to make to make sure that the end of the PTFE, that's teflon tubing, will sit inside your hot, and this Square and flat cut a slice off with a very sharp knife, and now they don't tell us the distance.

D

So this is where you actually have to start, pinning it to the actual extruder that this is a part of. So this is basically the heating parts we're almost done with it. We've got the thermistor which detects the temperature that gives feedback to the controller. This is the heat part. That's good! We're up to here. They also say put in the car clip. Does the cow clip allows you to put in a Teflon, but.

G

D

Doesn't allow you to let it out because it's constricted slightly, let's, let's test that so if you put you know a dot, you can because it's constricted already so yeah you want to take that out when you're, inserting it yeah goes in and hold it down to just pull it out.

D

So now, let's look at the actual extruder, which is kind of like the thing, with a fan and everything else on.

D

Slide this allows low friction. So it's surface chemistry, I mean the ideas and you can think about a Teflon pan X stick to it super slippery and it also lets the filament go in through very easily so there's minimal resistance. That's why? If you don't have this, there will be more resistance and you might get clogs more. So that's a sale for the phone's, a.

G

Sheath, it goes through.

C

D

Threw the inside of it it's gonna hold it's a two by four millimeter thing.

C

C

D

Yeah, that's exactly right and in principle, I think you're supposed to not have a place where.

F

Yeah, it's a transition.

A

D

Anything can happen there. So what you said, it's probably right. If it even if it's solid, then you can still move it.

C

Against the time.

C

D

A good question, so, let's look at that, we do have a filament beat in this system, so I think we can cut it off the to where it allows for the film impedance. So so this is how this is gonna sit if she was sitting like this with the wires facing away because the the sensors gonna be here. What was the question.

C

D

I would say yes, because the way the extruder is designed, it's got this big hall there, so I think what we want to do is probably beat it yeah how to eat it so that we just make it stick out, and you see that so make it even right with that top and the drive gears gonna be like right there, so we're driving for not like this right, even with it. Okay, now we're gonna have to figure out how deep that is. So how do we do that?

D

Well, I would stick it in all the way it goes. No more I'm gonna fit it Boyan and I would cut it off and they say: don't use these use a sharp razor, because you want a flat cut as opposed to a flattened, to cut fresh blades here. So I will fetch you a smaller dragonglass I might be culturally uneducated on that one. So.

I

D

So I push this all the way in they could probably I, don't know we might want to just just do it in place instead of measuring cuz measuring as a point of error. So we just say: okay, let's just mark it, with your set up, come on Chris under your chin, so I'll just mark it and so I know where to cut and there's this flange on this and a planche fits into that flange holder. It fits right against right again.

D

So if you put it right against the black, then we can mark it like say like right there so yeah, that's that so.

E

This is this: how it's actually is the most.

D

Complicated part of the whole printer we get through this will be good, so I'm gonna cut it.

D

Okay, so that that, given pretty cool cool cut without flattening it and then we're gonna, stick it in through and see where it ends up. It's acceptable.

D

Okay, it's kind of sticking out! Don't like that! So that's so she might as well know I just cut it a little too long and then make it trim. It decides how about that so I'm gonna trim it to size, Oh perfect that just cut right off that works really. Well with that. So that's my experience, so you got it right there. So so here we get. We get to the point. Okay, what did I miss I missed that? Don't forget that and actually I should have put it in before so I.

D

Don't have to take it out now and now. Let's call it clip allows so right now, I can still pull it out holding it. You can't do it out so I'm. Putting that clip underneath make sure the little clip goes hungry.

D

Yes, it should be good, it's kind of.

D

Okay, when I just did that it had a little bit of a hard time getting on, because the college clip was like pushed in that see, the black part was pushed in. So the blue part kind of like spread out a little bit so I have to push it like back around it to make sure that when you finally seat the blue part, it's not sticking out much beyond the black.

D

It's kind of like right under the black just barely sticking out and this we should do before we put this in. So we don't have to do what I just did yeah.

G

D

Yeah, okay, detail: you got good insight, okay, so the hole here is elongated vertically, make sure that the collet clip is gonna, be so you're going like this, where the wires going that way make sure the call clip is vertical, maybe yeah, maybe vertical this way going up, because the whole the whole is yeah. It's got more space going up, so you have pointed up so go like that and pretty much that collet clip it kind of goes in that hole yeah. So this should be pretty good here.

D

So that's where we are assuming that we're finished so the hot end. It's it's relatively quick with a thermal paste on the left, but now, let's continue so now the main extruder body I already messed up here, because so I need to take it out again because the first step of the extruder body we didn't go in there and because we're actually weren't supposed to do this. Yet we did this mounting plate is connected through this tiny m8 screw. So we got labels for the length. This isn't any through the way it goes.

D

We hiked this. So this is our design, but what we do is connect this base plate. This is the magnetic mounting plate that we're supposed to put the magnets on, and we can do that that little screwed connects to through that little hole. Okay and with a little.

F

F

Okay and then take a.

D

Take a small screwdriver, so this is a little pretty brand tool holder, so you can use one of these. I've got a bunch, a bunch of these pieces. I can put any bits and Winkies. Okay, yes, just smooth this down, not too tight yet, but the.

G

D

You don't put that in you can't put it out after the shooter is in place. So like.

F

D

Can still tighten it on this side.

D

Okay, that's the first thing, so that's that's the number one step step one is attach to mounting plate two extruder body so now this is where that we need a stepper motor and we put on that actual other year for the filament we've got a bunch of those. So take one of those once again, I've got this tiny little screw on them and then how deep do you do it? You have to kind of match it up against.

D

It's got this tiny screw in it once more. It's done just one of them. One tiny screw and the shaft is flat.

D

Okay, so how deep we're going to put it against here and make it go right above the hole compared to the motor.

E

D

On the stepper motor we're seeing that the the plug is pointing this way, it could actually point the other way just as well right, because that that cable is just going an extra way. So we put it this good this way, but okay.

F

D

We can put in one screw here, and this is where.

G

Our tool comes and.

D

C

D

So this is just to hold it and see. He's measuring this here, I wouldn't measure it I would go match it up against, because there's a step of error like I, tried measuring the top long tube. When you see what came out right so, okay, so I, don't believe in a measurement just hold it I would say just hold it by hand. You know, put it flush and then you see where we're exactly the drive gears. You can move it.

D

So with this set screw loosened you can move it in and out so move it like right above the teflon tube we just put in there. So.

F

D

Let's just keep that in their place, extruder in a socket, so we've done that multiple times place nuts here so okay. So in order to close this there's a there's, a knot, the square knot that goes into that little little hole because we're gonna put a cover. So I'm gonna cover this with this cover in a second.

D

So we need to catch this bolt, that's going to go through here for that one and when you're gonna need to catch this one on other side as well, so this is still loose, but there's gonna be a little nut in that nut. Catcher here. So this one here, the one who goes through is a regular hexagonal one. You can just like push it down.

D

It's a regular packs one for this one and then there's a square one for this other hole. Oh it's already there because I guess I cleared them before so we've got this so now we can, let's see, can I put the cover on possibly no not yet because the cover on top of the cover is gonna, be a fan and the fan needs to get screwed into that hole on that hole. So we need to make sure that there's stuff passionate so get a hex nut into the hole, I'll poke it down.

D

They're gonna stay okay through it down there.

D

So we got one insight underneath there and then here that's that you can do right at us to the fan, but for now we can use so we threw those in there. So that's the cover and we've got em 25 and M 18. So I like this picture because it gives you the whole over you. That's the cover that we're just working with right now and it says M, 18 and then 25 so go to M 18 right here. It's going to be this shorter one! Here, that's going to go into that square nut!

D

There can lock that down and then the 25, which is right here.

D

One down there, another panhead, but the ones with the allen wrench whole step whole see. That goes all the way down. Now it there's a nut inside there. So maybe like turn it upside down. Cuz you gotta catch it here, it's exploding, so man this is complicated. This is not our design, because we're gonna simplify this. This is too hard.

H

So it doesn't ship with the hardware to put it together.

F

H

F

H

Ship with the bolts and stuff, to put it together,.

D

H

These black parts.

D

That's all that's all 3d printed I thought the electronics and stuff get OH, so this part, the the metal and all that that we got off the shelf. But these we are printing. My body.

E

D

Everything else, so this is pretty cool in that sense, that it's a super complicated thing that you can get right up a 3d printer. It all goes together, amazingly well, but it's it's all so complicated. So oK we've got those that's great. How about the tensioner so so, there's a part that pushes down.

I

D

Against the drop you, which is we're gonna put that on in a second, but we can we can do this now. So this is the tensioner. Now the cursor needs this bearing inside of it. So that's that little bearing it's also got a shaft little tiny shaft, that's a little 3d printed shaft. So we go so tiny little pretty friend. It's got two little two little washers on each side and one washer on each side.

D

And it's just snaps in just like that.

D

That's uh that's cool, because in the Bill of Materials it actually calls for you buying like a little wooden dowel, but we're too cool for that. You know you can pretty printer this without a problem. So, okay, so we're.

E

Gonna put in the idler heart.

E

D

We can put on the motor.

D

Okay, so we didn't talk about the motor here yet so the.

B

35:30 is back so the 3025 go all the way through.

D

Through the back, that's right there, 35 for the 30 doesn't go through the plate. That's why it's shorter, so.

D

And I am losing the shaft.

I

D

Anchors into the motor, so the motors got these four holes in it and we said we're gonna, take the all the wires going towards the same way, so we're gonna go this way.

D

18 and 35 millimeter long, it's time three for the screw, so the second one, so all together the back mounting plate has these three screws. That's the second one for the motor and a shorter one, because it doesn't go through the backplate.

D

Okay, so we got that what.

I

Else is missing so.

D

We we ejected our idler, so we put it back in.

D

And kind of keep it pressed against against the driveway, so you don't, we don't lose it again now this needs to get tension by the springs.

G

And three by 40.

D

So the parties are the long ones, okay, these long ones, on these two Springs. So we got okay, so this one put a washer on each side of it. So the spring is pressing against a spring.

D

Washer and that's that so now you can hold down.

D

Now, there's two square nuts in there and I already put it before: that's how they screw it, so they screw in and they go into these square nuts. So now this is basically puts a tension on the film and going through this little hole. So.

D

Get it down to you, I would say just possibly I could close to the end and back it out a little bit. It bottoms out at the end there. So do the second one.

D

D

These are these oversized these washers here, so it says yes might amuse those.

D

Look next we're gonna use. We have a plan, so fan is gonna. Go such that you can see those work, the two mounting positions of the pan we aren't already through in a nut back there. We need a little little and three nut back here. But what happens if you flip? This doesn't work only goes one way, so you got to make it build that way and I'm just pushing in that screw. It stays in there and that's 2 M 3 by 20 these M 3.

D

My twenties are Phillips heads so they're, not the pen yeah, like the pan had stuff cuz they're, not going inside the hole they're just sitting on top of it and attaches the fan.

D

So, there's that nut catcher.

A

In making pasta, No.

A

B

Then the fat is going down. You want to turn them the fan to blow across them out that. Why do you want offense, because I hear the hot trend, like a theory, if you don't cool you're, gonna side.