►
From YouTube: Day 10 Summer X Morning
Description
See window install doc at https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1EFnUG0PgLiCRsJcH6U_bSZxGW1Z3weFQl4Y49GyRNYs/edit#slide=id.gef10a24542_0_78
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A
Not
recording
okay,
now
recording
yeah
can
somebody
email
the
entire
list
to
let
people
know
we're
on
this
session.
Okay,.
A
The
siding
comes,
we
got
two
types
of
siding.
One
was
just
the
long
strips
which
are
what
is
that
called
lap
siding
or
not
whatever
it's
called
long
strips
of
it.
What's
what's
the
name
for
that,
it's
not
lap
sighting,
it's
called
ship
shiplap
or
no,
we
got
strips.
We
got
also
the
four
by
eight
sheets.
The
strips
didn't
actually
menards
is
actually
quite
late
on
it
they're
supposed
to
be
in
last
week,
but
they
still
don't
have
them,
so
they
probably
are
getting
in
like
today.
A
Hopefully
they
were
looking
for
them
today
we
called
up,
but
they
don't
have
it.
So,
let's
actually
deciding
for
like
to
actually
not
tomorrow
or
the
day
after.
When
that
arrives,
the
end
point
of
the
siding
would
be
to
to
get
the
sighting
on
cut
around
the
windows
and
we'd
also
like
to
get
the
paint
sprayer
out
there.
So
cover
up
the
windows
and
and
paint
it
to
what
it
would
look
like
in
real
life.
I
think
that's
also
a
good
good
thing.
We've
got
a
high
pressure,
sprayer,
which
goes
fast.
A
I
mean
you
can
do
that
whole
side
in
like
20
minutes
or
so
so
it's
one
of
those
high
pressure,
sprayers
that
are
actually
those
sprayers.
Are
they
just
spray
all
over
the
place?
They're
not
super
efficient,
but
they're.
Actually,
60
efficient.
You
actually
end
up
spraying
40
of
the
paint
into
the
atmosphere,
but
they're
fast.
A
A
It's
ones
that
look
like
this,
the
it's
a
high
pressure
pump
in
there.
It's
like
2000
ps.
It's
like
really
high
pressure.
It's
like
hydraulic
level,
pressure
like
in
the
tractor,
so
it's
actually
quite
forceful,
but
this
kind
of
sprayer
gets
you
very
fast
paint
rate.
Otherwise,
you've
got
these
other
things
which
are
more
efficient,
they're,
probably
like
80
efficient
in
in
terms
of
like
you,
you
blow
away
because
it's
finally
atomized
paint-
and
it
just
goes.
B
B
The
so.
C
A
Yeah
we
want
to
cover
them,
but
we
they're
not
covered
properly
right
now,
they're,
we
have
to
find
like
get
the
edge
get.
B
A
We
already
have
the
the
windows
upstairs,
so
it's
in
practice.
I
would
think
it
would
be
like,
for
example,
that
window
there
I
mean
you
just
have
to
take
it
off
anyway,
so
if
you're
taking
it
off
anyway,.
A
D
A
E
B
A
We
know
if
we're
actually
final
point
is
the
the
siding
and
a
coat
of
paint,
also
on
the
siding,
there's
detail
like
z,
flashing
and
trim
like
we
don't
have
to
do
the
whole
house,
but
let's
just
show
one
side
how
the
final
trim
would
actually
look
like
so
corners.
You
got
edges
there,
so
paint
and
corners
there's
a
z
flashing,
that's
gonna,
be
in
between
the
two
seams
because
you
got
that
little
gap
in
there.
So
that's
that's
it
for
this
house.
On
the
other
house,
we
can
do
now.
A
A
All
those
steps
are
waiting
for
us.
We've
got
three
four
four:
today's
the
10th
11
12
13
14.,
there's
four
days
of
interior
stuff.
We
can
do
the
bathroom
things
like
that,
like
connection
connecting
the
water
system
connecting
with
the
electrical
panel.
Those
would
be
interesting
things
to
do
here.
People
are
leaving
on
monday
is
that
the
plan,
so
seven
people
are
going
to
the
grateful
bed.
A
A
Two
four:
five:
six,
okay,
so
everyone's
pretty
much
most
most
people
are
going.
Okay,
that's
that's
the
general
plan
interior
panels,
that's
laughs!
Like
in
this
house,
we
went
to
two
actually
to
two
foot:
centers,
there's
laugh
that
goes
on
the
inside
now
on
the
other
house.
Actually,
we
didn't.
A
A
It's
this
kind
of
stuff
looks
kind
of
like
that.
It's
specifically
speaking
in
menards,
that's
what
we
got.
A
A
H
So
I
know
that
we're
a
little
bit
on
a
time
crunch
and
you
do
get
in
the
mode
of
lots
of
energy
and
speed
and
and
everything
and
I'm
I
was
thinking
about
how
to
preserve
that,
but
also
ask
for
times
when
teaching
moments
can
happen.
I
don't
know
I'm
only
speaking
for
myself,
so
I'm
not
sure
where
everybody
else
is
at,
but
I'm
like
pretty
slow
and
learning
all
these
things
for
the
first
time.
H
So
I
just
want
to
ask
that
if
it's
something
that
needs
to
kind
of
keep
on
a
roll,
let
me
know
like,
or
just
you
know
or
maybe
better
if
there's
a
time
where
there
can
be
a
slow
section
where
hey
put
in
this
row
of
screws
and
contain
as
long
as
you
want.
You
know,
let
me
know
because
I
don't
want
to
interfere
with
the
flow
of
the
work,
but
I
also
want
to
figure
out
when
the
good
opportunities
are
for
the
room.
So
I'm
not
really.
H
I
H
Just
communicating
that
I'm
aware
of
that,
and
I
don't
want
to
get
in
anybody's
way.
G
H
Yeah,
but
as
someone
who
is
slower,
it's
scary
to
kind
of
participate,
because
the
flow
is
so
fast
and
I
don't
want
to
frustrate
anybody.
You
know
so
I'm
just
I'm
all
I'm
saying
is
I
recognize
that
that's
that
the
flow
is
what
it
is
and
I
don't
desire
to
interrupt
it.
I'm
I'm
saying
please.
If
you
notice
a
time
where,
like
hey,
I
wouldn't
be
frustrated
to
have
a
slow
person.
Do
this
like
come
invite
me
you
know
or
just
feel
free
to.
Let
me
know
if
I'm
slowing
you
down
also
yeah.
B
H
But
I
mean
that's
that's
partly
on
me
and
yet
like
I
can
decide
how
I
feel
about
my
participation.
You
know
so,
and
I
can
ask
for
more.
If
I,
if
I
feel
shut
out,
I
don't
I
don't
feel
shut
out.
I
just
I
just
was
noticing
my
hesitancy
to
participate,
sometimes,
and
that's
why
I'm
talking
about
this?
It's
not
no
one's
doing
anything
wrong.
H
G
H
A
Tons
of
that
that
time
out,
there
too,
like
I
would
say,
just
grab
somebody
and
say,
show
me
how
to
do
this
kind
of
stuff.
The
other
part
is
that
we
don't
have
blueprints
or
like
clear
instructions
and
everything
so
like
this
time,
if
we
stabilize
this
at
this
version,
which
I
think
we're
pretty
much
there,
we
can
get
that
extra
material.
Where
oh,
you
could
actually
come
out
there
with
your
cd
cajon
bible,
and
then
you
can
say.
L
A
Look
at
this,
let
me
see
what
I
want
to
do
and
it's
much
more
organized
plus
quality
control
and
stuff
and
learning
points.
That's
the
kind
of
document
we
want
to
be
generating
for
the
workshop
as
a
as
a
replicable
thing
and
something
that
all
of
us
can
use.
If
anybody
else
is
running
these
kinds
of
workshops
and
we're
getting
there,
it's
I
mean
just
think
about
it:
7.2
minutes
per
wall,
module,
48
wall
modules,
so
50
times,
7
350
in
principle,
so
350
minutes
six
hours
to
put
up
the
walls.
A
A
We
won't
give
up
until
we
deliver
that
and
then
working
out
more
details
like
okay,
making
sure
say
the
electrical
install
or
the
finishing
now
gets
this
kind
of
level
of
efficiency
and
all
that
we're
getting
there
that
so,
but
as
far
as
learning
it
yeah,
I
I
see
like
there's
tons
of
dead
time
out
there,
just
rap
people
and
and.
H
I
just
noticed
that
yeah.
A
A
F
J
A
Just
a
bunch
of
repetitive
tests,
you
got
to
put
in
all
these
screws
and
put
things
together.
Everyone
can
contribute
yeah,
yeah.
K
H
F
H
Just
thank
you
for
the
space
you've
made
and
also
like,
if
there's
a
peace
difference,
you
don't
want
to
get
in
the
way
of
that.
But
you
know
that
is
something
that's
a
a
reality
for
me.
So.
L
Yeah
I
came
in
late.
What
I
did
is,
I
would
just
go
sit
next
to
a
group
that
was
doing
something
and
then
pay
attention
and
then
move
closer.
I
don't
know
what
I
could
say.
I
moved
closer
to
the
point
where
I
would
get
in
their
way,
at
which
point
they
realized
that
I
was
getting
in
the
way
and
they
would
give
me
something
to
do.
L
H
I
mean
that
part.
I
know
how
to
do
I'm
just
I'm,
I'm
bringing
it
up
to
you
guys
to
be
aware
of.
What's
going
on
in
my
brain,
you
know
like
and
you've
all
been
great
as
well.
So
it's
you
know,
it's
been,
it's
been
fine,
it's
just
a
part
of
the
process.
F
L
A
Okay,
okay,
so
disassembly
how
many
screws
do
we
have
in
there
right
now
minus
the
ones
that
the
modules
come
up
come
down
all
together.
So
those
that's
not
not
the
thing
but
in
between
each
module
like
say,
you've
got
rough
count
is
like
a
hundred
pieces.
Well,
there's
48
modules
right.
Each
one
has
like
10
or
20
screws
50
times
20,
it's
like
a
thousand.
We
probably
are
like
about
two
buckets
which
is
like
4
000
screws
into
this
project.
A
We
probably
have
to
take
apart
like
two
thousand,
maybe
okay,
if
it's
four
thousand,
that's
the
max
limit.
But
how
long
does
that
take?
How
long
does
each
screw
take?
So
you
take
out,
say
ten
screws,
how
long
like
five
seconds
10
seconds,
if
you
go
from
one
to
the
next,
it's
five
seconds
and
they're
like
right
there,
because
because
you
don't
have
to
hold
them
and
they're
already
there.
So,
let's
say
like
five
or
ten
seconds:
let's
say
the
10
seconds
times:
10
screws!
It's
like
100
seconds
a
minute,
a
minute.
A
Minute:
well:
okay,
let's
see
five
seconds
times,
four
thousand
twenty
thousand
seconds
divided
by
the
number
of
people.
Let's,
let's
see
what
that
is
like
theoretically
speaking
like,
but
I'm
seeing
like
bottom
line
is,
like
I
see
like
three
hours
to
take
this
whole
thing
down,
really
because
it's
much
faster,
much
much
faster,
there's.
A
A
Even
if
we
have
to
do
it's
six
hours
for
20,
that's
for
4
000
screws.
I.
J
N
B
A
Like
for
the
house
wrap,
we
can
rip
it
off,
that's
it!
How
strappy,
when
you
pull
on
it,
you
pull
right
through
the
staple
it
staples.
A
So
I'm
telling
you
like
this
is
if
one
person
was
just
screwing
for
six
hours,
you
take
out
20
000
screws.
If
it
takes
you
five
seconds,
one,
two,
three:
how.
A
That's
enough
for
one
screw
so
six
hours
we've
got
10
10,
20
people,
dozen
people
so
yeah.
It
should
actually
be
very
quick,
very
quick
and
then
laying
the
modules
in
a
pile
in
a
nice
nice
pile
on
pallets
in
a
corner
like
the
north,
I
would
say
the
northeast
corner
of
the
concrete
pad.
So
we're
like
right
there
we're
not
like
carrying
this
like
way
to
some
workshop.
A
It's
like
we're
taking
it
down
and
putting
it
right
there
in
a
nice
pile
ready
for
the
next
workshop,
we're
going
to
cover
that,
with
with
the
truss
structure,
the
rebar
truss
structure
that
we'll
build
later
so
yeah.
I
D
B
Going
to
be
dangerous
and
slower
than
we
think,
especially,
how
do
you,
how
are
we
going
to
be
transporting
the
wood
from
the
top
roof
to
the
ground.
A
A
Can
do
that
you
can
do
the
you
can
do
it.
I
think
it
will
be
slower,
I
think,
to,
for
example,
on
the
panels.
A
I
would
say
if
you
have
two
or
three
like
you
bend
it
over.
You
slip
it
over
at
a
certain
point.
Well
on.
On
a
second
floor
there,
your
people
on
the
bottom
there,
your
your
nine
feet,
it's
nine
feet
to
that
panel,
but
if
people
on
top
can
hold
it
to
this
point,
you're
like
at
you
know
you're
holding
that
panel,
so
you
go
and
you
go
towards
the
edge
you're
holding
that
panel.
You
go
down
like
that.
Already
it's
like
four
feet
to
the
ground
and
people
can
easily
catch
it.
B
When
we
disconnect
wall
modules
that
are
connected
to
them,
we
have
to
rebrace
to
unscrew
to
just
prepare
for
gravity.
I
mean
it's
going
to
be
a
significant
safety
concern
with
some
of
them
heavier
lives.
J
D
F
A
G
J
It
works
well,
if
you
had
a
header,
if
you
took
two
two
by
twelve
to
slide
them
down
on.
M
A
All
right,
so,
let's
get
into
okay,
let's
talk
about
doors,
so
the
french
door,
which
is
a
whole
treat
of
how
you
install
that
we
documented
that
a
bit.
So,
let's
see,
I
would
say,
house
design
guide.
Has
this
house
design
guide
for
doors?
A
Let's
see,
do
we
have
anything
under
doors
for
here
and
then
I'll
take
a
look
at
under
build
instructions
here
I
think
we
have
information
on.
A
A
Yes,
so
what
we
want
to
so
this
is
what
we
did.
You
can
take
a
look
at
all
these.
This
is
actually
in
a
house
design
guide.
If
you
go
into
details
and
build
techniques,
door
and
window
detail,
here's
how
you
flash
a
window
window.
E
A
Here
so
this
is
actually
a
full
instructional
set
on
flashing
detail.
Oh
yeah,
I
actually
drew
that
out
there
so
door
detail
so
where
you
want
to
go
is
do
a
flashing.
Basically,
a
sill
pan,
so
at
the
bottom
of
the
door
is
where
you've
got
water,
possibly
splashing
up.
So
your
door.
Sill
is
a
little
bit
off
the
off
the
ground
level
for
one.
A
But
the
critical
part
is
this
red
part
it's
the
pan
and
they
they
talk
about
how
to
do
that.
We
actually
got
this
material,
this
flexible,
pan
material
that
you
just
bend
around
the
corners
to
conform
to
the
door,
but
the
thing
is
to
get
that
little
lip
on
the
back.
So
if
water
does
get
in
there,
so
you've
got
say
water
coming
down
from
the
atmosphere
if
anything
gets
in
there.
It's
blocked
at
this
at
the
back
trim
behind
the
door.
So
that's
the
exterior,
flexible
corner
flashing
also
on
that
corner
there.
A
G
A
C
C
You
can
use
a
plastic
pan
these
pvc
things
that
put
together
with
glue.
If
you
like
those
use
them,
I
don't
personally
care
for
them
or
you
can
use
a
membrane
pan
now.
Frankly,
I
like
memory
first
floor
second
floor.
If
it's
me,
I'm
gonna
put
hand
system
in
they're
all
french
doors.
Now
you
have
a
decision
making.
You
can
either
use
a
metal
head,
which
is
just
fine.
You
need
a
plastic
pan.
Yes,
yeah,
you
see
things
that
could
go
with
glue.
If
you
like
those,
I
don't
care
for
them.
C
Now.
Frankly,
I
have
memory
pants.
That's
where
you
use
a
flashing
quarter,
there's
different
brands
of
flashing
corners.
You
know
we
can
supply
some
industrial
supplies
and
you
can
come
from.
You
know
outfit
flashing
corners
with
membrane
or
great.
I
like
membrane
pans,
because
they're
going
to
fit
your
rough
opening
every
time.
If
you
order
a
metal
pan-
and
it
has
to
be
exactly
right
for
your
rough
opening
and
sometimes
there's
a
problem
with
supply,
have
machine
upgrade
apparent
time
and
there's
some
additional
issues
with
them
with
metal
pants.
I.
C
Waterproof
membrane,
particularly,
let
me
show
you
here.
At
least
you
know
you
remember
beyond
the
jobsite
it'll
fit
perfectly
and
it'll
be
extremely
effective
in
keeping
water
out
of
your
home.
So
if
it's
me,
I'm
gonna
use
pan
system.
First,
I'm
gonna
use
a
membrane
fan
and
we're
gonna
show
you
how.
L
C
C
J
C
A
A
B
A
C
C
C
C
C
All
right,
this
is
a
product
called
future
flash.
It
is
not
sticky
on
the
back,
I
said,
probably
open
coating
on
both
sides
of
an
sps,
waterproof
membrane
and
you'll,
see
why
I
like
it
right
now.
You
want
to
use
another
pan
use
another
hand.
This
membrane
handle,
should
save
you
money
and
fit
the
opening
perfectly.
C
C
You
want
to
see
sealant
squeeze
out
like
that.
A
little
bit
of
peeking
out
is
good.
That
way,
you
know
that
there's
not
a
path
of
water
to
get
in
the
home
right
there
and,
as
always,
we're
going
to
tour
the
ceiling
because
always
knock
it
down
now,
it's
time
to
fire,
which
means
that
our
side
flashing
is
going
to
go
under
the
nail
pin.
C
So
this
b
method,
I'm
on
method
b,
puts
the
flashing
under
the
nail
gun
and
has
the
wrb
applied
after
the
door.
We
are
bs
house
wrap.
That's
the
strategy
we're
using
right
now.
Okay,
now
you've
got
a
decision
to
make
with
how
you
apply
sealant
below
your
door,
you're,
either
going
to
use
a
barrier
method
or
you're
going
to
use
a
drainage
method.
The
drainage
method
assumes
that
at
some
point
in
the
future,
you
might
get
a
little
water
in
your
system,
either
the
door
leaks
or
somebody
does
something
around
the
door.
C
C
They
want
a
barrier
method
is
to
have
continuous
view
of
seal
running
down
the
trimmers
all
the
way
across
the
rough
opening,
and
not
the
other
trigger
the
barrier
method
that
completely
keeps
water
out
of
the
opening
and
does
not
anticipate
whatever
getting
your
opening
or
if
it's
sawing
on
water
will
make
a
difference.
I
can't
tell
you
which
way
to
go
what
I'm
going
to
show
you.
Now,
though,
is
arrangement
I'm
going
to
show
you
how
to
make
a
discontinuous
being
sealed
both
door?
C
How
I
would
do
it
for
me,
so
here's
a
drainage
method
of
seal
application
for
a
drainage
method
of
sealant
application.
This
is
how
we
would
do
it.
As
you
can
see,
we've
left
three
inch
gaps
at
the
lower
corners,
but
we've
completely
sealed
the
center
of
the
door.
Now
this
is
in
case
we
get
some
water,
the
frame
of
the
door.
F
C
C
F
C
C
C
C
C
Now
this
is
how
we
think
someone
should
be
applied.
First,
we're
going
to
put
sealant
on
that
pivot,
joint
that
we're
talking
about.
We
believe
this
joint
represents
an
opportunity
for
water
to
get
in
the
system,
so
we're
going
to
put
sealant
on
that
hinge
point
and
then
we're
going
to
chew
it
down.
Now
we
pull
down
our
fingers,
but
you
might
do
something
else.
C
Your
hinge
point
is
covered
and
sealant
has
been
applied
to
the
outward
edge
of
the
nail
then
covering
the
three
front
holes
listening
to
the
patient's
perfect
all
right.
This
is
our
condition
at
the
top
of
the
door
where
our
side
nail
fin
and
our
top
nail
can
come
together
notice.
That's
an
open
corner
now,
because
we've
got
a
pan
system
down
there,
there's
a
build.
F
C
We
can
help
correct
this
problem
with
the
open
corners
here
and
we
can
counteract
the
and
we
can
offset
the
materials
down
below
with
some
additional
materials
above
to
help
keep
his
doors
on
here.
All
right,
we've
applied
a
little
bit
of
sealant
on
the
door,
jamb
notice
that
they're
sealed
behind
the
nail
pins
already,
so
this
should
make
for
condition.
It's
very
easy
to
simply.
F
O
C
C
You
should
have
shims
behind
every
hinge
and
we're
not
done,
but
it's
really
important
that
you
understand
that
shims
are
important
and
you
shim
all
the
way
around
your
door.
Gyms
are
important
because
you've
got
big
heavy
door
sash
and
as
the
door
sash
swing
is
going
to
want
the
frame
of
the
door
to
flex
and
your
shims
prevent
that.
C
C
Also,
you
want
a
door
that
is
within
cross
site,
so,
what's
really
more
important
is
that
your
door
is
within
cross
site,
and
that
means
that
the
jam
is
in
the
same
plane
all
the
way
across
this
is
the
stand
of
the
opening.
Hopefully
it's
the
same
wall
system
as
well.
It
should
be.
You
need
walls
that
are
plumb
and
within
cross
site.
What
we're.
C
C
C
Test,
it's
called
string
test,
an
old
whole
trick,
and
I
think
it
has
a
lot
of
good
uses
here.
Here's
the
inside
of
our
pan!
Now
you
remember
earlier.
We
said
that
our
hand
membrane
is
going
to
come
in
about
three
quarters
of
an
inch
deeper
than
the
door,
and
this
is
why
we're
going
to
fold
this
material
upwards
after
we
apply
sealant
to
terminate
our
pan
and
we're
going
to
show
you
that
right
now
go
ahead.
First,.
C
C
C
Hi
folks,
here's
a
picture
of
a
metal
pan.
We
like
metal
pans.
This
metal
pan
is
correctly
fabricated.
It
has
a
one
inch
inside
vertical
lip
all
the
seams
are
soldered.
This
pan
looks
great
just
remember
that
metal
pans
are
conductors
of
heat
and
cold,
so
in
a
cold
climate
it
may
sweat,
they
may
have
some
condensation,
which
can
cause
real
problems
with
wood
flooring.
So
if
you
live
in
a
cold
climate,
a
pan
that
doesn't
sweat
like
a
membrane
pan
may
be
a
good
choice.
C
This
is
a
photograph
from
a
recent
investigation
of
a
serious
french
door
leak
due
to
hand
damage
the
next
video
clips
cover
some
points.
I
think
we
missed
the
first
time
through
the
easiest
way
to
determine
if
your
door's
square
is
to
take
diagonal
measurements
and
your
diagonal
measurements
should
be
the
same.
C
We
do
believe
that
power
and
semi-nothing's
perfect,
so
a
tolerance
could
be
an
eighth
of
an
inch.
It
needs
to
be
no
greater
than
eighth
of
an
inch
difference
like
this,
and
these
these
are
chevrons
and
they're
designed
to
be
used
at
these
upper
corners.
Since
there's
plenty
of
squeeze
out
of
ceilings
already
in
place,
the
chevron's
going
to
come
out
of
the
little
packet,
it
was
in
you're,
going
to
press
it
in
place.
Just
like
this.
C
Now
we're
applying
our
cap
feed
of
sealant
on
top
of
the
nail
fit.
This
is
going
to
be
about
a
half
inch
bead
to
seal
and
after
this
is
applied,
we'll
butter
it
flat
again.
If
you've
watched
any
of
our
videos,
you
know
that
we
really
encourage
you
to
radius
the
corners
of
your
putty
knife,
and
this
is
down
the
grinder
very
simple,
but
what
this
is
going
to
allow
you
to
do
is
butter,
your
sealant
saturated
it
kicks
up
against
the
jamb
and
protects
this
area
here.
C
This
thing
actually
pivots
or
rotates,
and
we
need
to
protect
this
area
right
here.
This
is
a
very
important
area
to
protect
and
you'll
see
in
just
a
minute
how
radiating
this
knife
goes
a
long
way
towards
helping
us
that
radius
putty
knife
kicks
our
sealant
into
that
corner,
where
our
rotating
nail
fan
is
now
remember.
The
reason
we
think
this
is
so
important
is.
We
are
not
going
to
apply
another
strip,
or
course
of
membrane
flashing.
On
top
of
the
nail
pin,
this
sealant
application
eliminates
the
need
for
additional
flashing
materials.
C
On
top
of
this
network,
hey,
I
did
watch
the
video
that
you
just
watched
and
I
have
some
notes
of
some
issues.
I
think
we
need
to
cover
a
little
better.
First,
this
video
really
is
designed
for
experienced
installers.
If
you're
a
beginner,
you
probably
need
a
little
more
help
than
this
video
can
offer.
Now.
This
video
assumes
that
you
know
how
to
use
tools,
safety
equipment
levels,
power
tools-
if
you
don't
know
how
to
use
those
things,
you
should
take
some
more
steps
in
your
training
next
fasting,
the
doors
in
place.
C
With
the
doors
closed,
you
want
to
set
your
shims
and
set
your
shims
on
the
printer,
the
door
after
you've
set
a
couple
of
shims
in
the
center
between
your
two
door.
Sash,
that's
a
really
helpful
tip
there,
because
what
the
shims
in
the
center
will
do
is
it'll.
Stop
you
from
over
shimming
at
the
sides
and
binding
your
doors
together,
everybody
doesn't.
A
A
C
Shims
around
the
perimeter
and
then
the
doors
don't
operate
very
well.
So
if
you
put
a
couple
of
ships
in
the
center
and
then
ship
around
the
perimeter,
your
doors
operate
real
nice.
What
you
want
to
do
is
you
want
to
pre-drill
through
your
side
gym
so
that
you
can
apply
three
inch
screws
through
your
side
gym
and
through
shims.
The
pre-drilling
is
important
because
it'll
make
the
screws
go
through
a
lot
easier
and
it'll
make
a
much
cleaner.
Look
to
it.
You
should
also
receive
those
screws.
A
C
There
would
be
one
screw
per
hinge
and
apply
your
screws
through
your
hinges
into
the
framing:
never
fasten
your
door
in
place
real
well
you're,
going
to
recheck
and
check
level
square
and
plumb
multiple
times,
and
why.
A
So
we
don't
have
a
nail
fin,
so
most
of
that
strength
comes
from
screwing
in
through
the
frame
the.
What
we
do
have
is
trim
on
outside
of
the
door.
But
that's
I
don't
think
that's
structural
meant
to
be
used
for
attachment,
because
the
final
siding
actually
goes
next
to
it
and
you
cough
it
up
it
up
there.
But
it's
it's
not
meant
a.
A
That
up
so
right,
what
you
have
what
you
had
here
was
the
black
material.
C
A
C
You
know
that's
really
important,
so
not
only
does
the
pan
have
to
fit
side
to
side,
it
has
to
fit
the
depth
of
your
door,
and
it
has
you
want
that
inside
lip
to
be
about
an
eighth
of
an
inch
inside
the
cell,
the
door
any
more
than
that
and
your
flooring
contractor
is
going
to
flatten
it
to
put
the
carpet
attack
strip
down
and
give
thailand
any
less
than
that
and
you're
able
to
crush
it
when
the
door
sits
in
place.
C
So
if
you
need
more
paint,
that's
great
make
sure
your
inside
loop
is
positioned
correctly
and
that's
it.
If
you
have
any
questions,
you
can
call
us
anytime,
you
very
much
for
your
here's,
a
couple
photographs.
I
thought
you
might
find
interesting.
These
are
expensive,
copper,
pans
that
were
damaged
when
the
door
was
set
on
top
of
the
inside
vertical
lip
and
crushed,
and
this
photograph
particularly
shows
a
serious
leak.
Also
remember
that
metal
pans
conduct
temperature
and
in
a
cold
climate
it
can
create
condensation
and
damage
wood.
Flooring,
keep
in
mind.
A
B
A
Yeah,
where
it's
the
final
installation,
because
we
could
practice
here
and
then
take
it
over
and
do
it
again,
but
since
it's
got
a
few
steps
in
there,
the
the
plumbing
part,
I
think
maybe
we
just
do
it
on
a
real
house.
The
real
house
has
and
the
one
that's
actually
going
to
be
our
showcase.
So
that's
that's
going
to
be
like
the
thing
in
a
in
the
first
brochure
until
we
build
the
first
one
in
real
life,
so
yeah.
A
No,
that
doesn't
have
it
in
this
this
iteration.
So
we've
done
that
before
it's
a
module,
that's
readily
retrofittable,
you
can.
You
can
just
raise
your
floor
and
what
we've
done
before
is
do
stringers
stringers,
so
long,
two
by
fours,
put
your
coils
in
between
that
just
run.
It
way
back
and
forth
and
fill
it
with
sand.
Actually,
that
part
was
important,
fill
that
all
that
space
with
a
lot
of
sand,
because
otherwise,
as
soon
as
the
heat
goes
out,
like
your
stove
goes
out,
the
house
gets
cold.
A
You
could
do
cement
too,
but
cement
is
gonna,
be
much
more
expensive.
Then
you
have
to
do
that
as
part
of
the
foundation
job,
as
opposed
to
laying
right
now
we
have
a
concrete
floor.
We
can.
We
can
easily
lay
the
hydronic
in-ground
heating,
on
top
of
it,
by
building
up
the
floor
a
little
bit,
and
if
we
do
that,
I'm
saying
we
should
do
things
like
sand,
some
material
that
absorbs
all
that
heat
and
releases
it
over
a
longer
period
than
just
right
after
the
stove
goes
out
or
heat.
A
F
A
That
you
need
to
go
through,
you
could
do
as
simple
as
a
car
buffer.
We
can
actually
do
that.
We've
got
all
the
pads,
and
I
mean
this
is
the
final
product.
But
that's
what
you
do.
You
got
to
go
through
a
series
of
consecutively
finer
grits,
starting
with
like
so.
First
of
all,
this
is
a
a
diamond
grinder.
If
you
have
uneven
concrete
this
takes
this,
grinds
it
very
easily.
A
We've
got
that,
but
that's
not
that's
like
if
you
have
rough
spots,
but
after
that
you
go
through
a
bunch
of
grits,
so
I
guess
so
that's
the
wheel.
We
got
got
this
thing:
nine
inch
diamond
cup
grinding
wheel
as
far
as
the
yeah.
I
got
this.
Let's
see
the.
What
do
we
get
for
the
actual
polishing
pads?
So
there's
pretty
much
a
lot
of
detail
here.
They
use
a
machine
that
looks
like
this,
so
it
looks
like
the
wait.
A
So
get
something
like
this
on
amazon,
so
you
got
a
sticky
pad
and
the
actual
grinder
wheel,
the
grinder
wheel,
is
plastic
material
with
embedded
diamond
grit.
That's
what
it
is
and
up
to
3000
very,
very
fine
grit
3000
per
inch.
You
start
at
like
50.,
so
50,
probably
like
to
200,
like
with
the
with
the
the
power
trowel
where
we
got
it
shiny.
We
probably
got
it
to
like
100
or
200,
because
we
just
kept
working
it.
So
then
you'd
probably
keep
going
to
the
next
ones,
but
we
could
take.
A
We've
got
this
stuff
here
we
can
take
the
buffer.
So
what's
a
buffer
look
like
you
can
do
a
hand.
A
One
of
these,
the
thing
is,
the
thing
you
want
to
pay
attention
to
is
the
speed.
These
things
allow
you
to
go
change
the
speed
from
it's,
not
like
a
grinder
which
is
3000
rpm.
This
is
slow.
It's
like
maybe
300
to
1000
hundred,
because
always
like
your,
I
mean
your.
A
Your
grinding
thing
will
just
fly
apart.
It's
it's
a
slower
process.
It's
it's
more
like
the
kind
of
rpms
that
are
found
in
when
we
did
the
power
travel,
but
faster
much
faster
than
that,
but
way
slower
than
like
a
regular
grinder.
A
You
want
it
speed
controllable,
but
you
can
do
this,
and
but
the
problem
is
that
will
take
you
forever
that
you
got
to
go
through
a
bunch
of
grit,
but
you
can
get
like
you
know
if
you
want
to
baby
like
a
two
by
two
foot
area
like
in
an
hour
probably
you'll.
Have
that
really
nice
and
shiny,
but
then
the
foundation
is
a
thousand
times
that
civil.
So
that's
like
25
hours
of
just
sitting
there
doing
that.
A
Nope
nope
couldn't
find
it
okay,
so
so
yeah
open
source.
This
thing
so
so
we've
got
concrete.
Polisher.
A
A
A
A
A
F
A
Yeah
and
then
filled
in-
and
this
is
just
polished-
this
is
not
any
kind
of
a
urethane
coat
or
something
like
that.
You
can
get
similar
to
this
by
grinding,
less
like
go
down
to
like
what
we
have
comparable
to
what
we
have
on
the
shiny
parts
of
our
of
our
power
trowel
area,
and
that
will
look
very
shiny,
but
you
have
to
reapply
it
every
so
often.
So
if
you
go
all
the
way
with
the
grid,
1
500
to
3
000,
no
more
forever.
So
that's
really
good.
That's
called
lifetime
design.
A
A
A
Yeah,
I
think
it's
so
what
do
they
say?
The
main
thing
is.
A
Less
they
say
of
wet
is
less
expensive
dust.
Free,
shorter
downtime
down
time
would
be,
I
think,
for
dust
dust
generation,
but
no
those
things
have
those
things
have
dust
collection
in
them
too.
So.
A
Oh
higher
shine
for
dry
get
just
a
better
shine,
which
is
that's
good,
does
more
to
the
slab
in
terms
of
hardening
and
condensing
so
yeah.
You
get
a
better
result
with
the
dry
method
can
be
done
in
both
open
areas
and
small
nooks.
Thanks
to
hand
machines
so
yeah
the
corners,
you
do
hand
machines,
but
the
advantage
of
wet
is
like
it's
dust,
free,
so
yeah.
M
J
A
O
I
wonder
if
you
could
do
you
know,
get
to
your
1500
grit
with
the
wet
method
and
then
do
the
final
drawing.
A
That's
the
door,
so
yeah
quite
extensive
detail
on
the
door.
So
what
do
we
want
to
do
today?
Maybe
we
can
focus
on
the
door
we
can
do
on
the
house
here
itself.
It's
installing
the
windows
and
the
second
layer
of
house
wrap.
We
want
to
do
that.
Let's
do
the
second
layer
house
wrap.
How
do
we
do
that?
I
would
suggest
going
to
the
roof.
I
thought
about
this
like
how
do
you
do
it
either
scaffolding
or
off
the
roof?
A
I
would
do
it
on
the
roof
to
save
some
energy
because
then
you
hold,
you,
have
four
people
hold
it
in
four
sections,
just
slide
it
over
when
it
slid
all
the
way
over
a
few
screws.
You
got
it,
then
you
just
gotta
attack
it
and
on
a
ladder
at
that
point,
it's
like
you
can
almost
reach
it.
Well,
you
got
to
get
on
some
some
form
of
flat,
but
then
you
don't
have
to
hold
it
with
one
hand
like
it's.
A
A
Be
good
yeah
and
we
don't
have
that
kind
of
equipment
because
we
don't
have
a
slow
proof
in
a
normal
slope
roof
you
would
have
the
repelling
equipment
and
safety
safety
harnesses
and
all
that
that's
the
advantage
of
the
flat
roof.
Don't
need
that
right
now.
Otherwise,
roofs
and
ladders
are
the
two
accident
points
of
house
constructions.
B
And
then
what
should
we
expect
tonight?
As
far
as
the
drinks
is
there
anything
that
we
need
to
bring
or
is
there
anything
we
should
prepare?
Should
we
shower.
B
Just
drinks,
which
that's
the
important
one,
feel
yourself
how.
A
All
right,
but
okay,
so
that's
house,
wrap
so
house
wrapping
windows.
People
into
that
who
wants
to
do
windows
wants
to
learn
how
to
put
in
a
window.
B
A
Yeah,
so
let's
do
a
quick
diagram
just
like
we
did
yesterday
so
duplicate
the
slide.
So
let's
say
window
summary,
so
we've
done
windows
a
few
times
here
so
window
install
summary.
A
A
All
right
window
install
summary:
we
use
these
splashing
corners.
Yes,
indeed,
you
can
oops.
Where
do
you
get
them
menards
or
home
depot?.
A
A
A
It
it's
refresh,
it
says
anyone
on
it.
Internet
can
find
an
edit
you're
right.
Okay,
this
top
line
here.
A
Cut
that
off
in
terms
of
the
house
wrap
you
don't
want
the
house
wrap
to
be
carried
under
and
wick
water
into
the
window.
So
you
cut
it
right
up,
not
only
that
you
actually
do
which
we
actually
forgot
in
the
other
windows,
but
it
doesn't
matter
you're
going
to
slit
the
house
wrap
in
fact,
at
an
angle
like
this.
A
A
E
A
A
What's
the
purpose
of
these
things,
these
things
are
self-sealing,
they
are
self
they're
self-adhesive,
but
what
it
means
it's
it's
also
self
sealing.
If
you,
if
you'd
poke
a
knife,
a
knife
or
a
knife,
a
screw
or
nail
into
it,
it
should
seal
around
it
because
you're
actually
screwing
into
it.
So
so
this
this
one,
this
flashing
tape
goes
where
so,
let's
make
it
blue,
but
the
flashing
tape
goes
on
this
edge.
A
It's
drip
cap
menards
show
you
the
exact
thing
we
have.
B
That
goes
on
top
of
the
tape.
A
Yeah
well,
no,
so
this
goes
under
the
flashing.
Sorry,
under
the
the
wrb
weather,
resistive
barrier
house
wrap.
So
this
goes
under
the
red.
It's
kind
of
hard
to
draw
it
here,
but
cut
top
of
house
wrap
and
tape
it
up
now.
This
is
after
the
window
is
in,
so
we
don't
have
the
window
in
yet.
So
the
flashing
tape
goes
in
like
this
everywhere
on
the
edges,
kind
of
wrap
it
around
the
edges
make
the
tape
go
under
tape.
It
up.
Okay,
flashing
tape,.
A
A
So
that's
that,
let's
talk
about
detail
for
how
you
do
the
corner
so.
B
A
This
is
your
flashing
tape.
So
what's
the
most
important
seam
here,
so
this
seam
would
be
talk
about
where
water
comes
in.
This
is
your
tape
tape
it
up
like
that.
First,
that's
strip
one,
so
you
prevent
this
water
from
getting
under
there.
You'd
have
to
worry
about
this
one,
the
one
in
red
here
that
one
is
inside
the
window
frame,
so
you
don't
have
to
worry
about
that
much
so
much!
A
I
A
If
you
have
caulk
in
there
inside
water
gets
down
there,
it
stays
at
the
little
pockets.
Yeah
forget
it.
Do
the
tape
tape
like
this
two
strips
are
fine,
this
one
here.
Well,
the
the
fin
is
going
to
be
over
that.
So
you
don't
really
need
to
worry
about
that.
These.
These
two
are
the
critical
ones
so
tape
it
up
with
eight
inch
strips
of
flashing
tape.
A
B
A
A
With
caulk
or
screws
you
want
water
to
if
any
water
gets
in,
there
have
an
entry
exit,
so
the
bottom
don't
screw
in
the
bottom
screw
in
the
tops,
and
so
the
top
and
sides
all
the
way.
Every
six
every
hole
in
the
nailing
fin
so
do
not
fix
the
bottom.
A
Then
you
fold
back,
then
you
put
in
your
drip
cap
install
drip
cap,
so
this
is
so,
let's
put
a
link
to
that.
What
I
do
in
these
documents
is,
I
put
a
blue
boundary
about
about
it,
to
show
that
it's
hyperlinked,
that's
a
very
convenient
thing,
then
you
can
go
right
to
it
and
you
can
go
to
menards
from
it
so
that
serves
like
a
visual
bill
of
materials.
It's
a
very
useful
thing
for
clear
development
here
so
yeah.
Then
you
put
this
on.
That's
the
drip
cap,
so
install
drip
cap.
A
A
Flashing
tape,
four
inch
on
three
sides:
install
drip
cap,
fold,
weather
resistive
barrier
or
fold
house
wrap
over
the
drip
cap
fold.
It
back
over
back
over
that
because
it's
still
hanging
up
you
taped
it
up,
so
it
doesn't
get
in
the
way.
So
you
don't
you
don't
put
the
window
in
and
you
forgot,
oh,
the
house
wrap
is
underneath
it
so
tape.
It
up
fold
the
house
right
back
over
the
drip
cap.
B
Does
it
not
need
to
flap
onto
the
drip
cap
so
it
provides
a
barrier,
but
so
there's
nothing.
Yes,.
A
A
It's
protected
by
the
drip
cap
and
every
all
the
details
that
are
after,
I
think
I
think,
we're
okay
without
it
there,
because,
because
we're
gonna
tape,
this
up
as
the
next
step
tape
up
the
house,
wrap
and
drip
cap.
A
A
N
What
makes
a
builder
successful
it's
not
how
many
homes
year
they
build,
or
even
how
much
money
they
make.
What
makes
a
builder
successful
in
large
part
is
how
much
money
they
get
to
keep
and
that's
basically
determined
by
how
well
they
control
their
call
that
costs
now
building
science.
Experts,
like
myself,
have
noticed
an
alarming
number
of
construction
defects
related
to
water,
moisture
problems
and
the
majority
of
those
are
around
windows
and
doors.
The
lack
of
flashing
is
the
big
cause,
one
most
common
construction
defects
that
I
see
is
illustrating
this
picture.
N
The
gap
between
the
nail
fin
and
the
sheathing
at
the
window
head
now
often
times
builder,
will
just
caught
this
joint,
but
the
reason
why
that's
not
acceptable
was
one:
it's
probably
a
violation
of
the
manufacturer's
windows
like
instructions
and
two
caulking
joints,
typically
don't
last
for
the
long
haul.
For
example,
if
you
look
at
this
picture,
you
can
see
what
happens
to
the
nail
fan
between.
N
The
nail
thing
with
here,
where
a
cocking
joint
can
be
it's
all
warped
and
it's
deflected,
and
so
eventually
that
would
pull
away
from
the
caulking
crane
and
window
leak.
Another
common
defect,
I
see,
is
reverse
flashing
at
the
window.
For
example,
here
you
can
see
that
the
secondary
moisture
barrier
comes
down
over
the
top
of
the
nail
from
the
window
and
then
a
piece
of
peelers
get
flashing
is
stuck
to
the
building
wrap
that
really
doesn't
provide
a
great
deal
of
value.
N
How
that
should
have
been
flashed
is
that
the
penal
stick
flashing
should
have
been
stopped
at
the
nail
fan,
pull
up
underneath
the
secondary
moisture
barrier
and
stuck
through
the
sheathing,
then,
with
the
secondary
motion
of
air
down
to
the
top
of
the
flashing
in
the
nail
fan.
Another
common
defect
I
see
is
that
the
silver
window-
here's
where
we
can
see
that.
A
F
A
N
B
So-
and
it
was
my
understanding
that
we
were
flanged
into
the
tape
that
was
behind
it,
but
we're
not
folding
the
tape
over
stringing,
the
flange
and
then
bringing
the
tape
over
the
flange.
O
A
Okay,
now
we're
not
done
yet
so,
underneath
the
the
thin
we
already
put
the
butyl
tape,
underneath
that
the
proper
thing
to
do
here
would
be
actually
to
put
more
tape
on
there,
because
you
got
all
the
holes
there's
whether
it's
the
barrier.
Well,
there's
the
flashing
tape
underneath
it.
The
second
layer
is
good
like
do
they
have
a
first
layer
underneath
it.
A
A
A
D
N
So
that
any
water
that
gets
out
of
the
solar
window
goes
over
the
flashing
onto
the
secondary
moisture
barrier
and
then
out
to
daylight
now,
flashing
problems
are
almost
always
the
culprit
behind
window
and
door.
Leaks,
painful
windows
leak
the
majority
of
times
people
just
do
not
flash
according
to
astm
e2112,
so
a
common
sense
solution
to
water.
Moisture
problems
is
really
simple:
flashing
around
doors
windows
and
other
penetrations,
dryer
vents
electrical
panel
boxes,
and
it
makes
sense
to
use
a
vehicle-based
product
because
of
its
long-term
ability
to
stick
under
high
moisture
conditions.
A
Butyl
products,
that's
we're
using
butyl
tape.
I
would
say.
P
Did
you
explain
that
this
is
something
that
there's
a
major
disagreement
about
about
the
construction
world
like.
A
P
P
You
have
to
wait
10
20
years
to
find
out
if
you're
right,
but
one
of
the
controversies
with
windows
is
what
people
normally
do
is
do
the
x
right
and
then
they
wrap
it
inside
like
that.
P
B
P
P
P
P
P
A
P
E
P
I
I
A
A
A
A
H
J
B
J
B
O
B
B
B
D
O
K
O
D
D
I
O
D
D
B
O
M
B
B
O
I
I
A
D
F
D
O
O
D
Rather
than
like
losing
the
whole
amount,
they
spend
some
fixed
amounts
yeah
and
then
it
increases
the
price
and
then
a
bit
and
then
the
winner
five.