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From YouTube: Thermoforming a gauntlet for an e-NABLE hand
Description
How to thermoform a gauntlet for an e-NABLE hand
Suitable for the Raptor Reloaded and Phoenix hands
A
I'm
going
to
be
demonstrating
how
to
form
a
thermal
form
gauntlet
for
an
enable
hand.
Now
these
gauntlets
are
soot
or
for
the
Raptor
reloaded
and
Phoenix
design
hands.
There
are
a
variety
of
thermoform
gauntlet
designs
that
have
been
produced
by
the
limitless
crew
in
the
UK,
about
Stephen
Davies
and
through
my
based
on
some
design,
work
that
was
performed
by
andreas
Bastian
and
skip
meets.
The
general
idea
of
thermoforming
is
the
jewel
the
three-dimensional
form
gauntlet,
but
instead
of
printing
it
that
way,
we've
actually
printed
flat,
so
it
printed
on
the
bed.
A
It
doesn't
get
its
three-dimensional
shape
until
it's
been
using
heat
now.
The
reason
for
this
is
that
it
gives
a
significantly
stronger
design
than
the
original
fully
three-dimensional
a
printed
version
when
you
print
a
gauntlet
using
ordinary
3d
printing
techniques.
The
layer
lines
will
go
along
than
through
the
hinge,
which
means
that
rather
like
a
piece
of
wood,
it's
very
easy
to
snap
it
that
way,
which
means
that
the
hinge
becomes
a
weak
point.
A
It
also
ends
up
with
a
rather
heavy
unit
with
thick
walls
and
a
lot
of
plastic
being
used
when
you
thermoform
the
corner
that
it
means
you
can
use
a
much
thinner
whoa.
It
means
that
the
filament
is
actually
wrapped
around
the
holes
in
the
hinge,
which
means
it's
as
strong
as
it
possibly
can
be,
and
those
strap
holes
these
slots,
which
the
filament
does
on
occasions,
tend
to
sag
down
from
in
the
middle,
to
end
up
being
perfectly
formed
because
there's
no
vulnerability
to
sagging.
Okay,
that's
it!
This
is
the
goal.
A
A
If
I
distort
that,
then
it
won't
fit
the
gripper
box
on
the
back
bit
properly,
so
I'm
gonna
be
dipping
in
the
hot
water
up
to,
but
no
further
than
the
edge
of
the
dovetail
I'm
gonna
dip
it
in
this
recently
boiled
water
up
to
that
line
for
about
10
seconds
doesn't
have
to
be
exactly
10,
but
something
along
those
lines.
Okay,
so
at
that
point,
when
I
take
it
out
and
use
this
block
of
wood
you'll
see
that
it
is
now
soft
and
I
can
bend
it
into
the
shape.
A
A
It
gives
a
good
straight
edge
and
the
side.
So
at
that
point
it
is
solidified
and
we've
got
a
roughly
balanced,
left
and
right
side
only
gauntlet.
Now,
obviously,
if
you
look
at
the
hinge,
mounts
they're
going
to
be
way
under
sized.
That's
not
a
problem
at
this
point.
We're
now
going
to
go
to
the
third
step
of
forming.
That's
where
I'm
going
to
dip
it
again
up
to
the
end
of
the
dovetail
joint
again
for
about
10
seconds
and
that's
going
to
just
soften
up
the
hinge.
A
A
So
at
this
point
it's
pretty
close
to
fitting
that
little
bit
of
slop
in
there
it's
not
a
big
problem
as
soon
as
you
put
the
pins
and
it's
going
to
hold
it
in
place,
and
you
look
at
the
end
here-
it's
reasonably
even
left
and
right
if
it's
not
dip
it
in
the
water
again
and
reshape
it
beautiful
thing
about
thermoforming
is
that
you
have
a
second
chance,
so
it's
not
right
dip
it
in
the
water
and
Bend
it
again.
So
with
that
we
have
a
thermal
foam
gormers.
Thank
you
very
much.