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From YouTube: motogripper1 1
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A
A
Castration
band
as
a
spring,
and
we
use
two
zip
ties
in
order
to
get
the
angle
right.
The
motor
gripper
has
a
palm
and
a
backhand
we've
replaced
the
rubber
band
plus
zip
ties
with
this
nice
little
metal
spring
and
I'm
gonna
show
you
how
it
all
comes
together.
What
is
this
motor?
Well,
the
form
factor
is
called
an
20.
A
don't
ask
me
why,
but
it's
a
ten
dollar
motor
with
a
gear
box,
they're
available
in
a
number
of
different
gear
ratios,
which
resulted
in
faster
or
slower
speeds
and.
A
They're
widely
available,
we
haven't
picked
our
favorite
particular
model.
Yet
this
is
a
pretty
good
fit.
It
turns
out
that,
while
the
design
is
robust
to
a
lot
of
things,
this
particular
small
hole
was
slot.
It
seems
to
come
out
differently
depending
on
the
printer
you're
using
and
so
the
model
that
we
have
actually
provides
you
with
a
small,
medium
and
large,
so
that
once
you
print
it,
you
can
see
which
one
fits
most
snugly
but
do
ibly
on
the
shaft.
A
A
All
of
these
files
are
available
has
Tinkercad
STL
files.
She
did
this
in
Tinkercad.
We
did
it
in
Tinkercad
and
what
we
were
still
using
Tinkercad
to
dispense
the
STL
files.
But
if
anyone
wants
to
do
modifications
we'll
be
happy
to
provide
a
Tinkercad
where
you
can
actually
modify
the
components
themselves,
in
addition
to
the
printable
components,
there
are,
as
we've
seen,
a
number
of
metal
components
and
the
documentation
actually
provides
live
links
to
places
where
you
can
order.
A
One
drop
that
does
the
cam
changing
the
size
of
the
cam
effect.
Also,
all
the
other
parts.
Well,
all
we're
changing
when
we
look
at
these
different
cams
is
the
size
of
this
D
shape
and
same
slot
just
a
hole,
just
the
hole
whose
job
it
is
to
write
and
by
the
way
you
do
this
with
the
stem.
If
you
will
facing
inwards
to
the
motor,
you
see
that
number
there
3.9
is
a
measure.
A
For
the
most
part,
we
start
with
straight
paper
clips
and,
having
done
this
a
few
thousand
times,
I
can
tell
you
that
it's
often
easier
to
straighten
the
paper
clips
with
your
fingers
so
that
you
don't
introduce
kinks,
but
once
you've
done
that,
then
that's
you
know
roughly
good
enough.
So
that's
one
and
that's.
A
A
And
the
very
first
thing
to
do
is
to
make
sure
that
your
holes
are
clear.
It's
just
to
say
when
you're
3d
printing,
you
may
have
little
bits
of
grunge
in
here,
and
so
I
will
tell
you
that
you're
going
to
want
to
be
able
to
pass
a
paper
clip
into
these
square
windows
and
I've,
just
confirmed
that
I
can
do
that
and
here's
the
square
window
on
the
other
side,
little
tiny
square
window
right
here
and
that
went
in
now.
A
A
The
contact
hole
is
a
little
too
small
for
the
paperclip,
and
that
is
the
case.
Sometimes
you
can
address
that
just
by
cutting
the
paperclip
at
an
angle
this.
So
it
comes
to
a
sharp
point.
We're
talking
about
this
little
hole.
That's
right!
You
can
see
it
at
the
very
end
there.
The
paperclip
has
to
reach
that
hole.
That's
right.
It
has
to
not
only
reach
you
want
it
to
pass
through.
So
here
I
am
now
passing
it
through
and
because
I
sharpened
it
most
of
it
will
go
through
right.
A
Now,
that's
adequate,
but
you
know
you
actually
would
like
it
to
go
even
farther
through
and
so
then
what
you
do
is
you
take
a
razor
if
you
have
to
do
this,
which
you
take
a
razor
or
a
file
or
sandpaper,
and
you
just
try
to
take
a
tiny,
tiny
bit
of
diameter
off
of
the
paperclip
I'm
gonna.
Do
the
other
one
while
I'm
here,
cuz
I,
know
I've
got
this
problem
sharp
the
point.
A
A
Try
to
skin
eat
up
a
little
bit
more
okay,
so
this
goes
in.
We
push
it
forward.
I
secure
it
with
my
thumb.
I
put
this
through
and
I
try
to
get
it
there,
you
go
it
harpoons.
The
contact.
Okay,
great
in
this
case,
I
now
bend
it
this
way
and
down
into
that
slush.
So
now
it's
secure
number
two
symmetrical
sort
of
go
into
this
hole.
A
A
It
ought
to
be
the
case
that,
when
I
touch
these
two
contacts
to
the
motor
okay,
so
we're
on
our
way
now
it's
a
good
time
to
put
down
the
roof,
because
that
will
secure
everything.
The
roof
has
a
flat
and
a
curved.
So
you
want
to
get
that
right.
So
we've
got
this
little
hole
here
and
we've
got
the
curve
matching
the
curve,
and
so
I'm
gonna
thread
this
through
and
now
I'm
just
gonna
line
everything
up.
A
A
A
A
And
there
you
go
two
wires,
two
contacts
and
we've
already
tested,
and
we
believe
these
contacts
are
good.
Okay.
What
we
need
to
do
now
is
make
the
battery
contacts.
This
one
is
almost
there.
The
battery
is
going
to
be
going
in
this
way
with
the
larger
going
into
the
larger
loop
here
towards
cam
towards
the
cam.
That's
right,
incidentally,
if
you
were
to
reverse
that.
A
A
And
here
we
do
here
we
go
paper.
Clip
number
three
paper
clip
number
three
yeah,
three
correct
okay,
so
we
want
enough
to
make
a
symmetrical
thing.
So,
let's
make
our
symmetrical
thing,
that'll
be
fine!
Then
we
go
have
it
in
there
long
enough,
that's
right
long
enough
to
bend
forward
and
enter
this
context.
So
that'll
be
enough
because
you
can
see
the
right.
The
well
for
the
other
contact
is
all
the
way
over.
Here
we
take
the
subway
okay,
so
there's
a
little
channel
for
that
yep.
A
Once
we
see
the
subway,
we
say
it's
gonna
want
to
bend
like
this
I
put
a
bend
in
then
I
make
it
go
through
and
I
say
nice
and
then,
if
I
just
want
to
secure
it,
a
little
I
can
temporarily
pull
it
and
bend
it,
and
now
nothing's
going
anywhere.
I
can
finish
this
you're,
making
that
second
two-plus
battery
contact,
correct
I
can
bend
it
like
that.
A
A
So
we're
twiddling
these
to
make
sure
that
they're
gonna
line
up
with
the
contacts
that
looks
good.
We
press
it
forward
and
with
one
thumb
on
top
and
one
thumb
pressing
it
forward.
We
press
forward
and
it'll
snap
down
with
it.
It's
a
nice
snug
spring-loaded
fit
that's
not
falling,
and
now,
if
you've
been
paying
attention,
you
might
predict
that
when
this
touches
this
the
motor
goes,
and
you
can
see
that
this
guy
comes
close
to
the
motor.
It's
okay,
if
it
brushes
the
motor,
but
its
job
is
to
come
close.
A
A
The
skinny
blue
in
part
unbent,
right
and
I'm,
saying
that
looks
good
and
that
is
gonna
want
to
go
in
this
hole
like
that
and
hold
the
hole
right
next
to
the
camera
next
to
and
at
the
bottom
of
the
camera,
and
you
may
notice
that
the
cam
is
activating
a
little
bit,
because
if
this
connects
everything,
but
that's
not
our
goal
right
now,
so
I'm
actually
gonna
take
out
the
battery.
So
it
doesn't
sound
right,
I'm
gonna
line
this
up,
so
it
is
in
fact
touching
the.
A
A
What
we
also
want
by
the
way
is
this
vertical
post
here
and
I'll-
explain
why
so
I'm
gonna
just
bend
this
here
at
this
point
and
now
I'm
gonna
secure
that
with
a
small
group,
and
so
what
this
is
gonna
do
is
gonna
connect
these
two
different
actuators
to
the
same
positive
ground
element,
and
to
do
that
I
would
like
a
small
Phillips
head
screw
just
so
you
can
see.
What's
going
on,
it's
helpful
to
position
the
screw.
This
way,
I've
got
this
vertical
post
here
now,
I'm,
getting
this
thing
in
here
and
I'm
screwing.
A
Okay,
so
remember:
I
argued
that
I
wanted
this
here
and
the
reason
I
want
it
is
because
I
call
it
a
joystick.
We
can
use
it
for
fine
tuning
this
thing
later
now.
We
look
at
this
and
we
say
all
right
in
principle
this
which
is
redundant,
but
we
use
it
as
a
as
a
fitting
wire
if
I
put
the
battery
in
the
motor.
In
this
case,
our
predictor
will
not
go
because
this
isn't
touching
this,
and
this
isn't
touching
this.
The
reason
this
isn't
touching
this
is
because
the
cam
is
holding
it
out.
A
So
I
line
these
up.
I
slide
this
in
nothing
happens.
But
now,
if
I
press
this
the
motor
starts-
and
this
is
where
we
want
to
adjust
it
once
the
cam
is
out
of
the
way.
I
want
this
pressing
against
this.
So
now,
I'm
gonna
take
my
joystick
and
I'm
gonna
finagle
it
so
that
I
can
twist
this
there
you
go
so
now.
Here
we
go
a
brief
press
and
the
motor
starts
needs
a
little
more
moxie
here,
I
twist
the
joystick
we
test
again.
A
That's
it
you're
adjusting
how
right
I
want
this
contact
to
press
against
the
resting
bar
when
the
cam
is
out
of
the
way,
and
that's
what
we've
done
here
so
just
to
review.
This
starts
the
motor
the
cam
turns
it
causes
this
to
lay
against
the
resting
bar
that
keeps
the
cam
turning
until
the
cam
comes
around
again
pushes
the
bar
away
again,
and
it
goes
into
rest.
So
it's
a
timing
circuit,
it's
a
logic
circuit
and
we
are
done
assembling
the
chassis.
A
We
just
look
and
admire
our
work
and
everything
is
firm
because
the
pressure
and
the
angles
are
such
that
everything
is
sort
of
now
held
and
tape
in
place
by
the
tension
of
the
bins
in
the
paper
clips
testing.
This
is
sort
of
a
a
fine
art
of
voltmeter
is
very
helpful,
but
typically
we
can
find
the
problem
by
first
actuate
it
and
if
it
doesn't
go
then
poking
the
various
places
with
a
piece
of
metal
and
the
one
that
responds
to
the
poke
is
the
one
that
was
not
a
good
enough
connection.
A
A
The
point
is,
and
this
metal
screw
rubs
against
this
plastic
a
few
thousand
times.
It
can
work
its
way
through
the
plastic
yeah,
but
it
won't
work
its
way
through
right,
the
same
way
and
everything
with
some
metal
a
fourth
function.
We've
got
another,
it's
a
bearing
so
yet
another
innovation,
just
using
paper
clips.
A
A
So
if
you
line
them
up
and
then
you
push
quite
hard
it
snaps
into
place
and
that's
not
gonna-
go
anywhere.
There's
a
right
way
to
do
this.
You
want
this
flat
surface
facing
ouch,
so
we
start
by
putting
this
like
this.
Now,
it's
just
in
place
now
we're
in
a
good
position
to
push
the
chassis
in
the
palm
it
goes
in.
Tail-End
first
fits
it
down.
A
A
And
we
snuck
it
up
and
that
works
firm
and
by
the
way
it
is
always
rewarding
and
important
to
make
sure
that
the
motor
still
runs
now
we
can
put
the
spring
into
place
and
we
have
found
there.
You
go
that
the
spring
is
best
done
by
putting
it
in
this
hole.
First,
then,
bending
it
and
squeezing
it
into
the
second
well
reservoir
I
just
there,
and
if
you
press
the
belly
it'll
snap
in
and
there
you
go,
and
now
we
should
see.
A
A
An
out
sticker
which
wants
to
be
facing
the
palm
and
it's
got
a
hole
which
wants
to
capture
the
paper
clip,
and
it
just
sits
here
and
you
see
when
the
roof
is
that,
when
the
back
of
the
hand
is
in
place
when
you
press
this,
it
will
activate
the
whole
thing.
So
that's
fine!
This
is
firm.
This
is
firm.
This
is
working.
This
is
not
too
tight.
So
now
we're
gonna
put
the
palm
on
the
backhand
on
the
Palm.
A
A
A
But
with
a
little
wiggling
hit
on
sticks-
and
there
you
have
they
completely
assembled
group
Rihan,
including
the
new
compression
spring,
with
a
snap
in
thumb
and
the
push
button.
So
we're
going
to
talk
about
putting
these
grippy
silicon
rubber
components
onto
the
fingers.
You
can
do
this
after
the
hand
is
assembled,
but
it's
easier
to
do
it
before
the
hand
is
assembled.
This
is
silicon
tubing
and
it
is
particularly
well-suited
for
a
band.
A
That's
gonna
go
here
on
the
thumb,
others
on
the
tips
of
the
thumb
and
the
fingers,
the
others
that
we
put
on
the
tips
of
the
thumbs
and
the
fingers
are
actually
silicon,
baby,
pacifier
and
nipples,
which
you've
got
very
good
qualities
for
this
purpose.
You
can
do
that
also
for
the
one
around
the
thumb,
but
for
the
one
around
become
this.
Silicon
is
a
little
bit
easier
to
work
with
because
it
has
a
larger
diameter.
I'm
just
gonna
show
the
process.
A
This
is
a
tight
fit
which,
on
the
one
hand
you
want.
On
the
other
hand,
it
makes
it
hard.
We
have
found
that
this
antiseptic
gel
is
actually
quite
good
as
a
short-term
lubricant.
For
putting
this
stuff
on
so
and
now,
I
keep
my
fingers
from
being
lubricated,
because
the
magic
here
is
that
the
friction
of
the
silicon
on
your
fingers
is
really
important.
So
I
got
that
far
now.
You
need
more
friction
because
I
got
some
of
that
stuff
on
my
hand.
But
here
you
go
step
number
one
completed.
A
A
Try
to
get
a
drop
of
superglue
in
there.
I
have
done
Woggle
it
around.
You
never
want
to
touch
the
superglue
with
your
bare
hand,
using
something
like
this
and
though
in
the
way
is
a
good
way
to
do
it
and
you
press
and
you're
wiggle
and
then
you'd
be
patient,
and
that
will
probably
anchor
this
side
down
I'm
waiting
for
that
I'm
gonna.
Do
the
other
side
make
a
vent
and
an
opening
put
in
a
little
bit
of
superglue.
A
Probably
like
you're
really
close
to
see
what's
going
on
there,
but
a
drop
did
go
in
I
can
see
it
dripping
down
inside
now.
I
take
this
out,
get
it
as
far
as
I
can
Walt
helping
the
super
glue,
grab.
I.
Think
pressure
helps
activate
the
super
glue,
I'm,
not
really
sure,
but
there's
the
process
time
you've
suppressed
it
squinched.
It.